• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • RC tips & troubleshooting
    • Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • Share builds & upgrades

Sold / Found Car Audio - JL Audio XD 600/1

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Status
Not open for further replies.
Come on now. Surely someone here is concerned about my hearing. :D
 
Not to get your hopes up or anything, I just have a question. What size of power cable did you have to use to run this?

I had a hell of a time getting an amp strong enough just to run 2 polk 6x9's and 5x8's. I went through 3 amps before landing on an old school RF 4 channel amp. I'm running 4AWG to the trunk just for it.

Sorry, was just curious is all.
 
Last edited:
Its a free bump. Haha. Part of me doesn't want to sell anyway because its tiny, slams my sub and never gets warm.

To answer your question, I am running about 12 feet of 4awg.

I ran 0 in my truck before but it was overkill and a pain to tuck.


What's your final ohm load for the subs?
Sent from my SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
 
I'm not running subs. Just rear deck (6x9 db691) and front door (5x7 db571) speakers, all 4ohm in my grand marquis. My kenwood HU wouldn't run the speakers without dropping out after about 15 minutes of "loud" volume, so I bought a dedicated 75w RMSx4 kenwood amp that would last 30 minutes, then go into a sudo fail safe mode (about 50% power), then tried a Massive Audio 125W x4 and it would last about 45 minutes, then go into thermal... I almost gave up... Then got a winning bid on an old RF Punch 800a4 and I'm pretty sure it will actually fry my speakers if I ran it high enough.

I was just looking to get decent sound and be able to hear it with the windows down on the highway... stupid radio.
 
Ahh ok, I thought it said 5x10 which made me think you have 5 10" subs.

You have to watch the manufacturers these days. They will boast a high rms however if you look at it, its at 2 ohms. So you see a great 75Wx4 amp and think it would be perfect for your speakers. Then you see that its 75Wx4@2 ohms and ~30W@4 ohms (which is a typical door speaker)


That's really odd that it would thermal... I can't imagine generating that much heat from a relatively small 4 channel. Have you ever put a meter on the speaker wires to verify impedance?
 
I did on the 6x9's. They ohm'd out to be what they should when cold and when warm. The kenwood was 75w RMS x 4 at 4ohm, the MA was 100w RMS x 4 at 4ohm. They rated much higher at 2ohm of course.

The 5x10 was a bad dimension, not sure what I was thinking as they are 5x7's in the front doors.

Was a weird problem to have. I even went so far as to solder all wires to the speakers to remove the crimps as a possible power loss or resistance gain.

Anyway, was just curious what you ran to run that amp as you get BS info at the stores when you ask. "You have to have 0 gauge to run these headphone's YO!"... yay best buy... yay fry's... dufus's.
 
Haha. Oh I have heard it all. I was running 3 Amps and a beast size inverter in my old truck so that's why I ran 0.
 
That's an odd problem, Olds. I don't have a problem running Alpine 5X7 in both the front and rear doors of my truck on a little Alpine power Pack (50X4 @4Ω).

Bump
 
Well since we have something about stereos ill list what i got for the hell of making me grin.

alpine type R 6.5" components with 2 " tweets in front MB quartz dsd 216's in the back on a JL audio 350.4 and 2 alpine type R 12"s on a JL 500.1 mono block v1 :)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top