Can't start my brand new car! Help!

[FieldDoc]

Hi!
I'm new to the hobby and am from the UK. I recently received a HPI RS4 3 RTR at my door via mail order from the states.
I eagerly followed all the instructions in the (shockingly poor) manual and took the car outside to break the engine in...

The first time I tried to start the engine, I flooded it (over primed it with the primer button...oops). I followed the instructions and removed the glow plug and emptied the ?carb of fuel by pulling the pullstart cord.

What I don't get is that I can't get the engine to do anything! I lock the glow igniter in place, and tug and tug and tug on the cord but nothing happens...not even a grunt of life. What am I doing wrong!

I have noticed that the pull cord is harder to pull when the glow plug is in than when it is not (I noticed this when I was de-flooding the engine). Is this normal or relevant.

I am using 16% nitro fuel.

Any help would be appreciated, Thanks

 

[NCNitro]

First, make sure the glow plug and igniter are both good, remove the plug and put it on the igniter and make sure it glows bright orange. Be careful because it will get hot. You can use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove it carefully. I have an RS4 3 and sometimes it can be a pain to get started. Choke the carb by completely covering the air filter opening with your thumb. The stock filter is small enough to do this. Then pull it a few times, it may feel easier to pull when its getting ready to fire up, then remove your finger and pull again. Short fast pulls or you will damage the recoil if you pull to hard on it. Try these things. Is the carb still set at factory break in settings?

In response to your question, yes the pull starter should feel harder to pull with the plug in, it means you have compression, when the plug is out there is no compression when you pull the cord it pulls real easy, so yes this is normal.

as far as Nitro % I prefer to use 20% Nitro in all my RCs

 

[nitro dave]

I think NC gave you some solid advice, it sounds like either the glow ignitor or you are not getting fuel into the engine.

Make sure the glow ignitor is charged and the plug is fresh, which it should be.

After you removed the glow plug cleared out the nitro and put back the glow plug, did you reprime the engine. I always put my thumb over the air filter or the pipe stinger and give a short pull or two until I see fuel going to the carb. If you have fuel going to the carb and a charged glow ignitor and good plug, you should fire up pretty easily. I would also check that the needles are set to factory specs.

Good luck, let us know how it goes, and welcome to RCNT.

 

[FieldDoc]

Thanks for the speedy replies guys, much appreciated. The glow plug glows beutifully. I think I am priming the engine right....I see fuel moving to the carb, although I don't want to flood it again! I am still getting nothing. I have noticed that there looks like there might be air bubbles in the fuel line...could this be the cause and if so, how can I get rid of them?

 

[Akina'sMtx-2]

Its a brand new engine so you might want the Piston and Sleeve to expand a bit so it will be able to start. In order to do this, Heat up the engine with a hair dryer. Blow the head and crank case(engine block) for about 4 mins. Before you start blowing, prime the fuel till it reach the carb, and push it 2-3 more times and thats it. Have your glow ignitor handy, so right when you finish warming it up, put the ignitor on and pull the pull starter. Good luck!

 

[x_789]

Well when you are pulling if it starts getting harder as you pull its FLOODED. You need to pull the plug at that point and inspect if for visible fuel on the plug. Turn over the car and pull the starter a few times to clean it out then put plug back in. I have a felling you are flooding it. If it wont start and you know you are getting fuel then try leaning out the HS needle about an 1/8 of a turn pull 4 or 5 times after you know its primed then another 1/8 till it fires once it fires up then you can richen it back up but its common to need to lean it a bit to get it started then you can take it back to factory setting or richer. Just make sure its smoking or has oil squirting out. Also its FREEKING LATE THERE YOU ARE GONNA PISS OF THE NEIGHBORS WHEN ITS FINALLY STARTS... Anyway keep us informed there is always someone around here to help...X It normally starts right after you get here

 

[FieldDoc]

Thanks, what is the HS needle? I followed the instructions in the manual about adjusting the screw with the spring on it that is in front of the hole that lies beneath the air filter (does that make sense??). I kept fiddling with it until the whole remained 1mm open when the throttle was pulled right back (ie, braking). Is this the needle you are describing? Sorry if I sound like a stupid monkey....believe it or not, i'm actually at med school. Be afraid.

 

[Maxxcrazy88]

That's the Idle screw.. if you have the .12 0r .15 FE engines they are a single needle carb and the Big turny knobby thingy that the fuel line hooks into is the HS needle if you have another engine it is most likely a 2 needle carb which is the same but has another screw on the side that controls low- Mid range

 

[Kevrone]

Wow Maxx thats pretty technical (knobby thingy) I can understand that!!

 

[nitro dave]

this might help....

or this

good luck, let us know Doc...

 

[FieldDoc]

Thanks a lot nitro....really appreciate the advice. After tinkering with the needle I got the engine to start - hurrah!!! However, I have another (sorry) problem that seems pretty weird....see the thread in this section entitled 'Help, I need an exorcist!'

Thanks again everybody