Can't Keep Running long enough to tune... Flooding one way roto..

[JCost]

Hello all! I've been wanting a nitro truck for many years now and finally got talked into one from a buddy who is( well was as he is into electric now) and the local hobby shop had a savage xl with the 5.9 recently in so I took it in! Excited to get this thing running good and do some bashing! Having a hellova time getting it run good though as it keeps flooding and then I gotta take the roto starter off and dry the shaft and inner piece off so the one way will grab again and its driving me nuts!! Still with it though! I'm hoping I can get it going good one of these days. I was told it being winter makes these pretty finicky with tuning. I have reset the carb to all factory settings with all needles being flushed except the HSN as per research I've found and finally got it leaned out enough through the HSN( Thats the top facing screw with the black knob correct?) to stop puking fuel out the exhaust last time I DID have it running long enough but it was at the same time it must of been flooded long enough for the one way to stop grabing so I Couldnt play with it anymore.. I'm tired of having to tear it apart to dry the one way and shaft off so often!! I understand these are finicky in cooler temps ( Its mid 20's today) but this is rediculous! LOL..
It is a used engine and it ran the first day I had it as the temp must of been perfect for the tune it had but due to snow :-D the air filter got too wet and it wouldnt run anymore.. so I dried it all off and the next day the temp changed again and I am where I am now....
Any tips are greatly appreciated!!
I did take the carb all apart aside from pulling all the needles and replaced the two seals that are on the carb as it seats into the motor...
I think I could tune it if I Could figure out why it keeps getting "flooded" and making the roto start stop engaging...

 

[JCost]

Well since I'm a noob!, I've been doing some more reading and I am thinking that the one way bearing is shot as what I have found is all pointing in that direction and that this thing should not being doing what it is as often as it is... Because this roto is free spinning within 2-3 starts after each time I tear it apart and clean it....
I should have a new one way here in the next couple of days with shaft so I'l tear it apart now and get back to you after I install the new OWB
Man I hope this fixes the problem!! I really wanna rip it up as the snow is disappearing quite quickly now!! ;-)

 

[srusinek]

I would consider getting a fuel with a lower oil content because the 5.9 owb is prone to getting oil on it because of it's design. I also would not advise not going pull start because you're elbow and bicep will be sore in no time. What has worked for me is I ditched the R5 hpi cold glow plug and installed a McCoy 59. Also the warmer it gets outside easier they are to start.

 

[Nitro Nerd]

Some suggestions that might help:

1. I'd recommend refraining from tearing down your engine/carb unless you are confident you know what you are doing. I am a newbie too but seems like everyone's solution is to 'seal your engine' to the most simple of problems. If you tear down your carb and don't put it back right...if you think you're in a pinch now.... ugh. I've only owned 14 nitro engines, and sealed one back in my extreme newbie days as someone on forum told me to (when it turned out my carb gap was just opened to small). Ha ha.

2. Most likely your fried your OWB because you keep flooding it and the OWN is now worn down. These engines are very easy to flood. If there is ANY resistance, stop and unlood else your are just in a visious cirlce.. Additionally, the OWB is crap on this engine. I've gone through two (I have about four gallons on my 4.6). If you have a wheelie bar,make sure the shaft is in true.

3. I'd highly recommend checking out HPI's 'Big Block Getting Started Guide' video before going any further as you'll want to understand the basics of tuning before messing around with too much. The best advice I can give a fellow newbie is to know what you are doing before you do it. I learned that the hard way. ;-)

Let us know if you have any questions or need help replacing the OWB. To be certain it is (as they aren't cheap) simply put the shaft in straight by hand and turn. If it's not gripping so that the flywheel moves, there's your problem. As noted, once you hyrdo-lock...don't keep trying to start or you'll just keep destroying OWB. I don't even prime my Savage, Put the roto-start in, let it run for a few seconds until I see the fuel going into carb and then I stop. Flooding a Savage is the easy thing in this hobby to do. ;-)

 

[JCost]

New OWB in and all is fine! no more roto start free spinning... Bearing was the issue...now I just gotta get it tuned! man this thing is picky when its 28 degrees outside with 65% humidity! can't seem to get the high speed from bogging out and killing the car at WOT... almost had it though.. It's suppose to be a little warmer tomorrow(mid 30's) so I will have a crack at it again about mid day.. I was checking the engine temp and it took forever to get to 210 or so but was pretty good when it was warmer like that.. just cools off super fast though afterwards so tuning is a nightmare!! lol.. plus I have noticed it running like crap after half tank.. I read there was a fix for that as well somewhere but can't remember where or what it was.. Are these really that hard to tune??? Or am I just a noob and missing something..... I reset the carb to all flush and was just messing with the high speed like the book says but there has to be better tricks... any and all help is helpful!!
I wanna wheeeeeelie!!! It wasn't warmed up enough to get the tune for that kind of power yet thats for sure... just would pull it up.. When it was warmed up and running good for the few minutes it was throttle response was good and seemed crisp but it seemed to me like it was in the clutches that wouldnt make it just grab right away.. is there a lot of tweaking that can be done in there as well?? This is a used machine so I don't have a clue as to what the previous owner had done.. I do know I have the 2 speed tranny in it but have 2 spare 3 speeds that came with along with enough parts included the 4.6 to build another truck LOL

thanks guys!

 

[Alexander_0_1]

No, Yes..........that didn't help did it.

All of my savages never wheelied until I adjusted the throttle linkages. One I bought from a friend wheelied on command, but didn't stop worth a damn, took me about 1 lap in my yard, and hitting everything you could imagine to realize he was missing the brass bullet that compresses the brake to the disk.

 

[JCost]

No, Yes..........that didn't help did it.

All of my savages never wheelied until I adjusted the throttle linkages. One I bought from a friend wheelied on command, but didn't stop worth a damn, took me about 1 lap in my yard, and hitting everything you could imagine to realize he was missing the brass bullet that compresses the brake to the disk.

Yes, the OWB was junk Got the new one and got to spend some real time today tuning.. not quite there yet but at least now I can restart it after it dies more than twice haha... RotoStart working just fine ;-)

 

[Nitro Nerd]

I've actually performed quite a bit of testing on what impacts your ability to wheelie. Don't know nor care about any science behind it...this is just what I explicitly found out:
1. Spur gear
2. Traction (ie tires)
3. Tune
4. Throttle linkage

The #3 and #4 should not define whether you wheelie or not, but instead just be properly set up regardless. I change tires and adjust slipper for whether I want to ride wheelies and when I don't. Tune and linkage remain the same.