I have a hyper21 4port . and a Werks Racing adj. clutch . When I put the flywheel on the shaft it rubs against the engine housing after i tighten it down . I have the tapered collar on but it does not keep the flywheel away . Can I put a washer inbetween ?
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Can i put a washer intbetween the flywheel and engine ?
- Thread starter Mr.Pink
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Clintd
RCTalk Addict
If you could find a washer that is perfectly flat and fits the crank tight, I don't see why you couldn’t. But personally I would just get another collet. With all the weird combinations I’ve done I’ve always found a collet that would work.
Mr.Pink said:
I found out from Sweetdiesel that there are two types that you can get. One with the lip that is benhind the flywheel or the one without the lip. Unfortunately you got the one with it like I did. Either return it or get a different collet.
DirtRacinFool
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I've used washers to space the flywheel off the engine block on a couple of my RC's and never had a problem doing it. Your LHS should have quality washers that will work. You won't need one that very thick, 1mm or less is all you'll need.
wannarunem
Hardcore RCTalk User
Mr.Pink said:
As already mentioned, your collet may not fit the flywheel properly. I am running a different engine than you but the principle is the same. I had to put 3 (7mm ID washers) behind the flywheel to push the clutch assembly forward. If you still need more shimming to get the CB to line up with the spur gear add (5 mm ID washers) between your racing clutch and Clutch Bell.
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ApriliaRacer
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Just go to you LHS and buy the correct collet. I had the EXACT same problem you did. The Werks clutch was rubbing on my Mach .26.
I had the correct clutch too, it did not have the "lip". The correct collet solved the issue immediately.
The next problem/issue you may encounter is that you can't tighten the screw down on the shaft/clutch bell assembly without it "binding" and not turning freely. You'll probably need an ofna shim kit.
The next thing is that you have to make sure there is plenty of room inside the clutch bell so that when the werks clutch moves out it doesn't contact the inside/front of the clutch bell and rub. You're going to need shims....
Finally, make sure you loctite the nut that holds the clutch spring on otherwise it has a tendency to tighten up during the race causing your engagment point to happen much later.....
I had the correct clutch too, it did not have the "lip". The correct collet solved the issue immediately.
The next problem/issue you may encounter is that you can't tighten the screw down on the shaft/clutch bell assembly without it "binding" and not turning freely. You'll probably need an ofna shim kit.
The next thing is that you have to make sure there is plenty of room inside the clutch bell so that when the werks clutch moves out it doesn't contact the inside/front of the clutch bell and rub. You're going to need shims....
Finally, make sure you loctite the nut that holds the clutch spring on otherwise it has a tendency to tighten up during the race causing your engagment point to happen much later.....
I use the OFNA shim kit on both my engines without any problems at all.
