Can a pullstarter kill / keep engine from starting?

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Squanchy26

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I finally got my kyosho fired after last run, which went good. Been having problems firing her.
She fired I felt a tug on my pullstarter and she died. I could feel consistently after that her wanting to run but felt like pullstarter was stopping it. OWB? Something else? All I've had
problems with is starting. She runs great when shes on...
 
I think I know what you're talking about, if I do, it's the tuning.
 
is it installed backwards?
 
OWB was filthy. Engine was trying to start but owb was sticking I think. Now fires but only idles for about thirty seconds then dies and wont fire right back up. Going through the tuning flowchart now.
 
OWB was filthy. Engine was trying to start but owb was sticking I think. Now fires but only idles for about thirty seconds then dies and wont fire right back up. Going through the tuning flowchart now.


Hehehehehe you have no compression buddy! :p feel my pain!!!!!

Time for a new engine.
 
Or it could just be rich on the low speed....

I think this may be the case. It runs fine for like forty seconds. No compression it wouldn't run right?
 
I think this may be the case. It runs fine for like forty seconds. No compression it wouldn't run right?


No. No compression will run for X amount of seconds, then die and not start up until it's cooled again once the metal goes back to it's original size.
 
No. No compression will run for X amount of seconds, then die and not start up until it's cooled again once the metal goes back to it's original size.

+1 to this. I have an engine that does exactly that.
 
Sometimes. The same symptoms appear with certain tuning issues.

Thank you everyone for posts. I have not had time to play with it. Rolex , following your
flow chart for tuning, would it act this way with to rich on the low end? Last time I ran it it
ran for 7 minutes off of a third tank of gas. Nothing has changed since then, I couldn't see this engine as destroyed ... yet.. also I forgot, I could not give it full throttle as it would bog down. Edit...

---------- Post added at 10:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:16 PM ----------

No. No compression will run for X amount of seconds, then die and not start up until it's cooled again once the metal goes back to it's original size.

Savage in this case would a new sleeve and cylinder be a fix or is a total rebuilx necessary?
Would a brand new engine be cheaper? I have another but for a second rc I got with the deal.
Sorry if I'm asking stupid or redundant questions I'm a noob to this.
 
Last edited:
If it is rich on the low speed it will idle for a bit then die, but normally when it warms up the tune also leans out . . . .

If it's low on the low speed it might take a bit to re-start as the case will be full of fuel.

If it died because it fueled up (too rich at idle), it will blow smoke when you get it started (crank case clearing out).

The easy tell is conducting a pinch test - get the engine to running temp, pinch the fuel line (needle-nose pliers) a small way ahead of the carb inlet . . . it should run for say three seconds (or so) and then stall - if so, you low speed tune is about right.

If it idles for more than say 5 seconds, then dies, it is rich on the low speed . . .

If when you pinch the fuel line and the revs increase, then low speed is lean . . .

Give it a shape rev and brake - the throttle blip should be crisp, clean and immediate.

If, after the pinch test and no matter how much time you spend on the low speed
tune she dies at idle, take out the engine, hold the fly wheel until the weight of the engine is held by compression, if with the weight of the engine only the engine is able to pass the piston past TDC, likely it is time for a new donk.
 
Tune it when it's warmed up and only has a half tank of fuel. Put the nose against something and give it quick blips on the throttle till it responds quickly while adjusting your LSN. Don't lean too much or it will overheat. Just enough to get a good shot off the line.
When that's good, pull a hard trigger shot and start to adjust the HSN. Careful here, you'll be spinning wheels or slipping clutches if you do it too much.
On any given day you might have to tweak the HSN, but the low end should be good.
 
Tune it when it's warmed up and only has a half tank of fuel. Put the nose against something and give it quick blips on the throttle till it responds quickly while adjusting your LSN. Don't lean too much or it will overheat. Just enough to get a good shot off the line.
When that's good, pull a hard trigger shot and start to adjust the HSN. Careful here, you'll be spinning wheels or slipping clutches if you do it too much.
On any given day you might have to tweak the HSN, but the low end should be good.

x2 good advice
 
So much data. Will get it done this weekend and report. Just got off thirteen hour shift no lunch. Tired. Thank you everyone.
 
So finally got some time. Couldn't even get it to fire. Its about 72° here. Guy at hobby shop said not to
run it when its over 80. The glow plug went bad before this started. Could I have the wrong glow plug? Sorry I forgot to mention it slipped my mind..

---------- Post added at 1:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at
 
When the last time you were running? Have you had time to charge your igniter? When looking at the fuel line is there fuel getting to the carb as you prime?
 
When the last time you were running? Have you had time to charge your igniter? When looking at the fuel line is there fuel getting to the carb as you prime?

It ran last week. For about seven minutes. Next time I tried to start it wouldn't. I checked glow
plug wasn't lighting. Changed it. Would fire but only run for about 30 seconds or so.
Now I can't get it to fire at all. Yes I can see the fuel as I prime. Bought a new igniter
and charged before I tried to fire it this morning.
 
It's time to replace the giow plug, then.
 
Yup, that's what I was going to say. I doesn't mean you did something wrong, sometimes we just get duds.
 

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