-
Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀
Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!
- ✓ Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
- ✓ RC tips & troubleshooting
- ✓ Buy, sell & trade RC gear
- ✓ Share builds & upgrades
building the ultimate 3.3
- Thread starter nwappleby
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
What is ultimate?
Everyone has their own ideas.
Do you want a super sexy shelf queen?
The most durable Basher?
A Maxx built for the track?
Need more info.
Everyone has their own ideas.
Do you want a super sexy shelf queen?
The most durable Basher?
A Maxx built for the track?
Need more info.
.21Rc10GT
Hardcore RCTalk User
I would start with a RCS Cybermaxx kit and go from there. I would try to get 1/8th scale buggy diffs, and aluminum bulkheads. Most likely RPM A-arms and Knuckles. That should get you started.
I'm not poo poo'ing your thread... I really am curious why spend that kind of money on one truck?
If your just looking for a serious basher and you have extra dough to throw at it, you need to determine if you want to go big block or stay with a small block. If you go with a true big block, you will need a new chassis just to fit it in. If you want to go with a drop-in BB, you won't need the chassis. If you do go BB (drop-in or not) you will probably want to fully RRP the trans gears, get good cvd's all around, get FLM diff cases/bulks (hybrids) and install 1/8 scale diffs.
Find a decent roll bar/cage (NewEra 3-point was a solid one). Then, if you have $300 to spare go with titanium arms by flextek.
If your just looking for a serious basher and you have extra dough to throw at it, you need to determine if you want to go big block or stay with a small block. If you go with a true big block, you will need a new chassis just to fit it in. If you want to go with a drop-in BB, you won't need the chassis. If you do go BB (drop-in or not) you will probably want to fully RRP the trans gears, get good cvd's all around, get FLM diff cases/bulks (hybrids) and install 1/8 scale diffs.
Find a decent roll bar/cage (NewEra 3-point was a solid one). Then, if you have $300 to spare go with titanium arms by flextek.
No one bashed you.
He is simply stating that there are other ways to do your project.
If it were me doing this AGAIN like you want to do I would choose a different truck or trucks. To make a GOOD basher out of a T-Maxx that you wont have a lot of issues with your looking at 1,200.00 - 2000.00.
The parts he listed are among several different ways to go that will get exactly what you asked for. You should research the parts listed as a starting point and adjust from there to get what you want for the cost you are looking for.
To start you may want to substitute the A-Arms for RPM. They dont look as noce but are 75% cheaper.
He is simply stating that there are other ways to do your project.
If it were me doing this AGAIN like you want to do I would choose a different truck or trucks. To make a GOOD basher out of a T-Maxx that you wont have a lot of issues with your looking at 1,200.00 - 2000.00.
The parts he listed are among several different ways to go that will get exactly what you asked for. You should research the parts listed as a starting point and adjust from there to get what you want for the cost you are looking for.
To start you may want to substitute the A-Arms for RPM. They dont look as noce but are 75% cheaper.
Someone got out of bed pissed...NW, seriously all 4 of us (RC10, olds, Eddy anad myself) have all made the "ultimate" T-maxx....and all 4 of us would probably recommend starting with another rig if you haven't bought one already...the maxx is more fun when it's pretty close to stock.....don't take it so personal......but you are seriously looking at 1k+ to get your project where you want it......if money is no object then look at Unlimitedengineering.com they make a truggy conversion that JP racing used to produce.....to start with that would be my prefference....then 1/8 scale diffs like RC said......then RPM arms (aluminum just breaks and bends up other stuff).....my basic rule was keep everything in the center stiff and strong and let the arms be the part that tear away in a bad accident......
Well, if your sticking with a small block, the fantom pipe for the revo was a real good choice and I believe fantom makes one for the maxx as well. The best pipe for the maxx back in the day was a sirio fat pipe (or something like that).
Found it... Sirio Big Bore: https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=ns&pn=S18200001
I'm not sure what your looking for by "quad? Racing?".
Found it... Sirio Big Bore: https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=ns&pn=S18200001
I'm not sure what your looking for by "quad? Racing?".
tmaxxthrasher
RCTalk Basher
- Messages
- 53
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 0
- RC Driving Style
anybody know if the big bore would have a positive affect on the 3.3?