Build Thread Building Ol Glory

[monstertruckier15]

Blue locktite.

 

[Rizzle67]

Nice. Thats an easy fix for the screws.

 

[monstertruckier15]

Fasteners and hardware McMaster-Carr

 

[D3MON]

yep definitely stock up on those e-clips, it would be smart to stock up on the more breakable parts, namely the a-arms when you can and hub carriers, both front and rear, but primarily front. i am in a few FB groups that i have been able to acquire some of the parts but also available on ebay with some searching.
for the front at least if you can, id prioritize RPM a-arms if you can find them.
use a bit of blue loctite on things that go into metal, do not use it on screws going into plastic though. it is a good idea to go through and double check screws before runs.
do keep in mind, the RC10gt uses SAE hardware, the AE .15 itself will be metric, but the rest of the rig will be SAE, i highly recommend getting a good high quality machined driver, at least for the 1/16, as it is a really small hole that likes to strip easy with the cheaper ones and the "L" wrenches. on a budget the Dynamite Machined hex driver has worked great for me for over a year.
another thing you want to keep up on especially with the rc10gt is the diff, make sure to maintain it periodically, you can still get parts easily as most of the wear components are the same as current models (i.e. diff rings and balls). for inside the diff make sure to use ball diff lube, my preference is AEs own stealth lube. you can't use grease as it is not grease/lube in a way that is supposed to completely negate friction as the diff needs friction to actuate. for the small thrust bearing in the outdrive you can use a wider variety, but i still prefer the losi or AE black high pressure grease. they are semi expensive, but you dont use a lot of it and just one package goes a long way and you know its the right stuff to get the most out of your diffs.

 

[Rizzle67]

@D3MON. And @monstertruckier15. I thank both of you for the insight and ideas. Its the simple things like this that can help avoid down time and frustration. I will keep the threads coming with builds and mods.

 

[Rizzle67]

@D3MON. Do you know if RPM# 70762 Front A arms are usable on my RC10 GT. I can't find info saying they wont or will.

 

[D3MON]

@D3MON. Do you know if RPM# 70762 Front A arms are usable on my RC10 GT. I can't find info saying they wont or will.

i haven't personally confirmed, but no i do not believe so.

 

[D3MON]

i haven't personally confirmed, but no i do not believe so.

GT and GT2 used different a-arms and mounting.

 

[monstertruckier15]

@D3MON. Do you know if RPM# 70762 Front A arms are usable on my RC10 GT. I can't find info saying they wont or will.

NO they only work for the GT2
This is what you need Front A-arms for the Associated GT, RC10T & T2 - RPM R/C Products
Your going to find out a lot of parts are discontinued or real expensive now!

 

[Rizzle67]

GT and GT2 used different a-arms and mounting.

Bummer. EBay is flooded with these. You had mentioned them before. So I thought I struck gold.

 

[monstertruckier15]

I struck gold! I have 5 front sets black and 1 front set blue.

 

[Rizzle67]

@monstertruckier15. What is one of those worth to you?

 

[monstertruckier15]

Not for sale. I do have 7206 stock front arms used if you need bad. OR
Aluminium Front Arm For Team Associated RC10GT Nitro RC10 GT PRO | eBay

 

[Rizzle67]

@monstertruckier15. No worries. Stock A arms are available at my local hobby shop. I was debating the aluminum arms. D3mon had cautioned against them. So I was hunting for a different option. I have RPM on my Arrma and was pleased with quality.

 

[monstertruckier15]

@monstertruckier15. No worries. Stock A arms are available at my local hobby shop. I was debating the aluminum arms. D3mon had cautioned against them. So I was hunting for a different option. I have RPM on my Arrma and was pleased with quality.

Ok I see they are discontinued . The aluminum one are heavier but stronger.