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buggy moving without pressing on throttle

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PTR4000

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hello,

anyone know why my buggy has a tendency to move on its own even when my finger is off the throttle? I've checked the carb slide and it's only slightly open (as it always has been) in neutral.

thanks.
 
Well, I would have suggested that the idle is set too high. But you say you have that covered. I had the same problem but mine was with the idle. What about weak clutch springs ? If they are worn or damaged I would think they would engage easier, say at idle instead of just off idle (slight throttle applied).
 
so is this intermintant like a servo twitching? Cuz my first thought is your idle is to high. A good way to check the odle is to pick you buggy up off the grounds and if the wheels spin its too high.
 
Blazer, could the clutch spring scenario produce the same results or am I talking out my butt ? I haven't even had my clutch apart yet but from my snow-machine days in New England, the clutches on them work basically the same way.
 
Military, you are spot on with the clutch spring theory. Weakened or worn springs will allow the clutch to engage at much lower rpms than normal.
 
yeah, the wheels spin (quite fast I'd have to say) when the buggy's not on the ground. So leaning in the idle screw lowers the idle, yeah?

thanks for the help!
 
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not "leaning". turning the idle set screw (iss) clockwise typically raises the idle while turning it counter clockwise lowers the idle.

the cutch spring idea is possible. I however would measure the gap you see down the neck of the carb when it's fully closed. On most carbs, it shuold be a 1.5 mm gap. You shouldn't be able to put your 1.5mm L allen wrench in the hole. If it's even a little bit bigger than it should be, you car may do this.

it's easy to fix, just turn the ISS a tiny bit counter clockwise until it stops moving.

You might also want to check that your throttle linkage isn't holding the carb open a tiny bit. That, however, seems like a no brainer.

Good Luck and welcome to RCNT :cheers:

Rob
 
yep...adjusting the idle screw did the trick. To tell you the truth, I don't really know where the clutch spring (or the clutch for that matter :sorry: ) is.
 
I'll tell you then. ;)

There is a gear attached to the end of the engine (part that turns :D). You'll notice the gear is a part of a "cup". We call cup / gear the clutch bell. If you take that cup off (requires you take the engine out of the R/C) you will see three rubber "fingers" laying in a formation around the shafts that pokes out. Those fingers are what we call cluch shoes. On the smaller engines you'll find a spring that wraps all the way around those shoes holding them together. On the larger engines, you may have one spring per shoe. anyway, as the engine spins those clutch shoes, centrifical force throws the shoes out (they hinge on one end). The force enventually over comes the spring and the clutch flys open. When that happens the shoes grab the housing of that can shapped clutch bell. Now the engine turns not only the shaft, but the clutch bell too. When the clutch bell / gear turns the rest of the R/C drive trains turns and hence the R/C moves. Thats why if you're sitting at an idle, that gear/can thing (cluch bell) doesn't turn. anyway, if your clutch spring was stretched out of shape, it wouldn't hold the clutch shoes together very good and hence the clutch bell would turn too easy (like when it's idling).

this is good stuff to know. someday, for example, your clutch shoes will wear out. They will no longer grab the bell. You will know this because the R/C wont "hook up" (take off) as well as it used it. It will be time for new shoes.

I'm bored and blabbering sorry.

Have Fun,
Rob
 
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it's good to know that. :thumbup:

I'm slowly getting the hang of this hobby :w00t:
 
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