Buggy Cleaning 101

[uDi_MP7.5]

Seems good, but I don't really like the idea of dunking the whole rolling chassis in a tub of water..?? Rusty bearings, rusty main gears, bound to get some rusty screws where water has sat in them somewhere, the list goes on.

Once water's inside the bearings, you're not going to get it out too easily, especially once its mixed in with the oil/grease. And while the water is going in, its not unlikely that it'll take some dirt in with it. So even rust aside (big worry) i'd still be worried dunking the whole thing in water.

Going back to "the cleaner is, the better it performs" - bearings are the number one variable in how smoothly a car rolls (given drivetrain etc is all well), and with dirt pushed in with water, and maybe some rust thrown into the mix, you will have a car that looks plenty clean - but really isnt. Sealed bearings will probably have no worries, but I'm sure a good percentage of us still use metal shielded/ teflon shielded?

Maybe I am just a wuss, but I go as far as taking everything off you have (unless I'm doing a total rebuild, then it all comes off) and then just use paintbrush, chux cloth, aircompressor, and wd40 to clean it to a shine. trying to stay away from the bearings with the compressor too.

Works just as well imo, if you sit down and take the time to do it properly, and avoids the need to dunk it in soapy water.

But yeah, that's just my way of doing it.
udi

 

[Waste Land]

If you'll read my past post man, I take out all bearings wash wah them out with contact cleaner, then WD40 to get rid of hold grease and oil. then 3 n 1 oil is put in

 

[cbreaker]

I'm with you, man.

One time, and the last time I did it, I put the buggy in the sink and gave it a rinse with the kitchen sink spray nozzle thing. I was careful not to spray the air filter/engine, but I got the chassis and front/rear suspension and bulkheads.

Before I could even finish drying the thing out with a can of air and a cloth, the universals showed signs of rust and so did some of the screws. Once it dried, some of the ball-ends weren't as smooth as they should have been either.

Since then, I do it the hard way. I take the big peices off and I clean it with some rags, WD40, and a good chunk of time. I do a big cleaning after a big day, and I do a minor brushing off on a not so big run.

I do like the idea of the 50/50 armor all and water spay bottle. I bet it helps; some dirt probably won't stick very easily.

I need some replacement bearings because some dirt has gotten into a few after I water cleaned it. Not knowing how to measure a bearing I'm not sure what sizes I need (any suggestions would be appreciated.)

If you clean out the bearings after you do the dip I'm sure it's fine but it seems like more work then just cleaning it the manual way.

Everyone has their own way I guess =)

 

[Rolex]

Originally posted by cbreaker

I do like the idea of the 50/50 armor all and water spay bottle. I bet it helps; some dirt probably won't stick very easily.

Some guys use WD-40 instead of the 50/50 Armoral, and it looks just as black and shiny, but EVERYTHING sticks to the WD.

 

[xmrxblakex]

Too Much Fuss On Cleaning

All that work, about taking your car apart, cleaning every little piece. Seems a lot easier to go to ralphs, get a spray bottle, 3-4 bottles of rubbing alcohol and spray everyting but the survos, electronics and down the carb. i do take off the gas tank and fill it 1/4 the way with it and shake it to get all the dirt if any out, and thats it. usually no scrubbing is required, if any, left rear A-Arm, due to exaust.

 

[dark10304]

A select few keep :flamer: Waste Lands post.
Let him wash his buggy how he wants.
His money.... His time.... His post
dont be a :flamer:

all i do is clean up with a brush and a red shop rag
shine something? use airfilter oil or after run
both cheap and if you buy the multi pack of air filters you typically get oil in the bag

 

[uDi_MP7.5]

as they say, to each their own. I'm not flaming, i'm just saying because i've 'been there done that' - when it comes to RC car cleaning, imo you only get out what you put in.

taking all the bearings out is a pain man, and so is doing a proper job of cleaning/rebuilding them - so I think it saves time right there just to not dunk it in water, and therefore avoid having to keep cleaning or removing bearings. With normal running the only bearings that should really get gritty are the rear wheel bearings, all the other ones you shouldn't have to touch for a looong time as long as they are not exposed to water, or have dirt pushed in.

Originally posted by cbreaker
Before I could even finish drying the thing out with a can of air and a cloth, the universals showed signs of rust and so did some of the screws. Once it dried, some of the ball-ends weren't as smooth as they should have been either.

I experienced the same - water in a spray bottle, isopropyl alcohol in a spray bottle, same result. Rust all over the place, gritty suspension components, and a car that feels fairly sandy when rolled. You just know its not alright. Soaking it could only be worse.

Originally posted by cbreaker
Since then, I do it the hard way. I take the big peices off and I clean it with some rags, WD40, and a good chunk of time. I do a big cleaning after a big day, and I do a minor brushing off on a not so big run.

IMO - that is the best way to do it. Plenty of dissassembly, plenty of rags, plenty of wd40 if you so wish (I usually save that for last), and more than plenty of time. I use an aircompressor as well, makes getting it "roughly" clean much easier, but once again got to be careful not to blast dirt IN to things.

I use soap and water a-plenty, but only where it won't do harm - eg I will remove a stash of plastic and aluminium parts and throw them in a soapy tub together and attack with toothbrush/soap etc.

WD40 is okay, stuff sticks to it a little, but it eliminates rust, gets everything looking sweet, and makes cleaning next time round easier.

Of course no one is going to do this all the time, and of course it's going to take a LOT of time - but I think you're better off doing a good pull apart and clean every week or so of hard running, than doing a quickie wash on it every day or so, and just accelerating wear by pushing dirt into moving parts, rusting things, etc etc.

quick careful blast with aircompressor does great for just every day cleaning (when you know you're just gonna get it dirty again the next day) and a good solid dissasembly/rebuild/clean every week, month, before the next raceday, whatevers your bag.

--------------

my old mp7.5, one of the pics for the ebay auction before I sold it:
it had a long bash day at the track, and the whole thing as well as the engine had a nice thick coating of brown.

then i took a DAY off and SLOWLY cleaned it.. results....

i'll shut up now before I get another thread by humboldt about how I am a big blubbering vagina.
:llama:

 

[Nitro_Keebler]

i'll shut up now before I get another thread by humboldt about how I am a big blubbering vagina.
:llama:

lol

 

[flash183]

Re: lube?

Originally posted by dark10304


dry lube? what is that and what is the benefit?

Dry lube can be found at Lowes and Home Depot along next to WD40. It goes by different names but Liquid Wrench make a version. It will say something like "Contains PFTP". You'll know it when you see it. It's like WD40 except it dries which help to prevent dirt from sticking to it. It's not anything amazing but it helps.

 

[cbreaker]

On the subject of cleaning, I got this can of "Trinity Nitro Blast" stuff. God, I hate it.

It smells good, and it dries super fast. But it leaves this whiteish residue all over everything. I guess it would be good for going over the engine itself, where you might have some nice buildup of gunk on there or something. But I just don't like the residue it leaves behind.

Anyone else use this stuff before? Seems like a waste of money but I figured I'd try it.

 

[Waste Land]

I like the nitro cleaner and all but its just too damn expensive for how much they give you.

And guys, I've had my Storm for almost a year now and washed it the same way everytime. Nothing in my car is rusted.

 

[uDi_MP7.5]

If it works for ya, then why the hell not. :fro:

 

[Mike 8 nitro]

I'm new 2 rc, but this works good on my buggy & mt. I just spray a little MEAN GREEN SUPER STRENGTH cleaner. You can get it at Wal-mart,etc. All i do is spray a little on you can watch the dirt & oil run off. Then just wash or blow it off. I can wash off with out getting elect's or carb wet. No scrubbing at all.:whhooo: :classic: