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Breaking in Wasp .28

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Maxxbash

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I got my new Wasp .28 today and dropped it in my sav, couldnt wait so ran the first break in tank, I set it to the recommended factory setting for break in 5 turns out for the hsn and 5.5 for the lsn, I had the idle screw set so that it beraly kept the wasp running, at idles the engine was running with a temp between 240 and 260 and its 36 degrees out side right now, I then set the hsn to 5.5 put and the lsn to 6 turns out this brought the temp between 230 and 245 this doesn't seem normal to me for the engine to run at such high temps at idel, but then again this is only the second engine i've broken in and didnt have a temp gun for the first one, is this normal or did I do something wrong and screwed up my engine?
 
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did you play around with your mid range needle?
I have a Wasp .28 in my buggy with the hsn at 4.75 and lsn at 4.5 turns and msn flush with the back side of carb out and one day at about 45 degrees outside, the temps stuck between 200 to 230. I have a OS P7 medium turbo plug in mine. I have had only 5 tanks through it so far and the thing still hauls ass on short throttle blips.
 
Maxxbash, those temp seem kind of on the high side considering normal operating temp is about 250 @ 70 degrees. So basically you can add about 180 degree to whatever the outside temp is, to give you a ballpark idea of where your temps should be at. Since it's 36 where you are at, I would assume that you should be running somewhere around 220. 260 sounds a little high to me. I plan to break my 28 in this sunday and can let you know what temps I come up w/.

BTW, what pipe, air filter, & glow plug are you using? Maybe, you just didn't tune to compensate for those things.
 
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Digital, I have the Ofna 9.5 Pro Header & Pipe, motor saver air filter and using the stock plug that came on the wasp, any suggestion to compensate? NJRC did you adjust the msn before or after you broke it in? I didnt really want to mess with the msn because I've always read that themsn are calibrated at the factory, I took a look at the msn and look like its maybe 2 to 3 turn in from flush, also what kind of plug is the one that comes on the wasp? any other suggestions are appreciated.
 
Maybe you should try setting it the way NJRC has his... It does sound like your temps are too high.

Normally, on break in, you have a hard time getting above 180 on the first tank. At least with the past 6 engines I've broken in, I didn't hit 200 until the 3rd tank if not more. I normally broke them in when it was around 70 outside if not warmer. The only engine I broke in when it was about 40-50 out was the one I'm currently running and it was a pain to get up to 200. Took about 6 tanks before I felt comfortable leaning it out to try and warm it up. It was running around 160 for the first 4 tanks.
 
BTW.....my temps were with a lid on, motor saver filter, THS pipe and 20% Trinity monster fuel if any of that makes a difference......this was my first time breaking the engine in at outside temps below 60 degrees. Now I have the thing stored for the winter.
 
the buggy is not for bashing as I have my Savage with a Wasp .26 to bash for the winter
 
temps sound a little high. i doubt you did any damage though. richen up your lsn needle about another half turn. adjust the idle screw so it stays running. drive it around a low speeds for about 4-5 minutes at a time then shut it down and move the piston to BDC. continue like this till you have about 25-30 minutes on the engine. after that your ok to tune for performance.
 
It almost sounds like an air leak. I'm not familiar with that particular engine, but it wouldn't hurt to seal the carb and backplate. Also, the midrange needle really only determines when the low and high speed needles take over. Most of the time it doesn't need adjusting. I'd also have to agree with Corrado, just make sure your temps get up to around 200 or higher, so it will heat-cycle.
 
thanks for all your replies but I found the problem, the head wasn't seated on the block correctly, once I got right the temp was fine, this is one powerful mill, once I got tuned right it pulls wheelies on demand, I even bent the integy wheelie bar, I can't wait to see how the 3 speed tranny performs with the wasp, is there a stronger wheelie bar out there that wont bend? also has anyone found out when the 3 speed tranny will be available or the price? again thanks for all the replies.
 
I think HPI said that the 3-Speed will be out for X-mas.

I know that RAMtech-RC makes a wheelie bar but I don't know how strong it is. You can ask nim about it in the Manufactures Forum.

What gearing are you running to get those wheelies? I'm really interested in this engine and hopfully will pick one up this weekend. Once you fixed the problem how was it to tune? Thanks.
 
I have the RRP steel combo set which is 48 spur and 16 bell, I've been looking for a bigger steel bell but I havent found one yet, any one know where I can find one?, as far as tunning its a breeze, once it warms up I spend 5 minutes max fine tunning and its good to go, this thing is a beast, even from a rolling start wheelies are no problem at all.
 
Even with the 3-needle carb it was easy? Awsome, I realy want this engine and hopefully will get one this weekend :)
 
well well!My zilla on break in was 230 and 240 at idle and runs great!And i always run them that hot for break in.Because u are having alot of oil flowing in the motor for break in so u wanna sorta keep it around 230 260's and thats what i have been doing for the past 2 years on all my motors.Also u might wanna have a fan blowing air on the motor which really helps.I know it sounds crazy what i said but its the best way!And make sure your low end is really rich and your other needles a little bit out not much though just enough to keep it running. Cya!
 

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