Break in process. is this normal?

[MonstrousMikey]

hey all I'm in new york. its not that warm but i found a nice day to get out there and break in my new s-xl got it running with stock needle settings. I'm guessing the outside temp was about 40-50 degrees or so. but the engine was not getting hotter than 90. i was keeping the engine running at a moderate speed driving in circles.. i ran through 2.5 tanks like this. then waited a few minutes and ran one more tank through before i figured it was way to cold because i heard that proper breakin temp as about 200degrees so idk if was i was doing was harming the engine or it was okay. but it wouldnt idle long before dieing maye 10 secnds and when i would try to give it a little more gas when it was just rolling it would sound liek it was dieing down. so i tried leaning it out figureing it would make the engine run a little hotter and still no more throttle response it was still very prude. i guess i still have a few tanks left.. just looking for some feedback and advice in properly breaking in my rig. all replys are appreciated thanks alot sry for rant but wanted to give details for best possible help.

 

[olds97_lss]

Whenever it's below 60F outside, I put a sock on the head for break-in. If it's below 40F, I don't break-in, I wait.

By the time you get to the end of tank 2, you should be near 200 if not at it. Sounds like your still overly rich, which isn't necessary after the first few minutes of a new engine running. The overly rich setting allows the engine to blow out some of the filings inside the engine from when it was milled and as it wears a bit while running. I try to tune to 130-150 while running tank 1. I shoot for 180-200 during tank 2. Normally, by tank 3, I've hit 200, then I keep it near 200 for the first half gallon or so by tune.

Using a childs tube sock top (cut the top off and use it) covering the perimeter of the entire head will help get your temps up and help keep the temps more stable as you run it.

Even on a broken in engine, I run a sock top on mine when the ambient temps are below 40F.

 

[Scrogg]

Every HPI engine i have seen comes with the HSN set way too rich, even for break-in.
Use the sock and leave the body on. Lean it until it runs 180-200F and leave it there.

 

[BOUTCH]

Every HPI engine i have seen comes with the HSN set way too rich, even for break-in.
Use the sock and leave the body on. Lean it until it runs 180-200F and leave it there.

Ya i agree for the factory settings set too rich for the hpi engine.

+1 on using the sock and leaning it till the temps reaches 200F at the very least.

 

[MonstrousMikey]

alright tomorrow is supposed to be about 60degrees. if so ill try again. i was using the body and now ill try the sock method. i leaned it out a whole quarter turn before and had a tiny bit better repsonse. so ill see how it goes and lean more if i have to. thanks for the input anymore would be much appreciated.

 

[Scrogg]

If it is 60F outside don't bother with the sock. Preheat it and tune it run in the low 200's.
Run it for a half tank at a time, shut it down, put the piston at BDC and let it cool for 20 minutes. Repeat that about 5-6 times, then listen to the engine. Tune it to perform and keep it under 250F.

 

[RC Addict]

If it is 60F outside don't bother with the sock. Preheat it and tune it run in the low 200's.
Run it for a half tank at a time, shut it down, put the piston at BDC and let it cool for 20 minutes. Repeat that about 5-6 times, then listen to the engine. Tune it to perform and keep it under 250F.

Now THAT is a proper break-in!

 

[Mido]

My Method

When i broke mine in, i put aluminum all around the head, then put a peice of tape to hold it, then i cut a sock in 2 and stuck it on!!
The aluminum works good, keeps heat in

 

[Scrogg]

Running a engine overly rich with the heatsink covered up stresses the hell out of the engine. All that excess fuel does not compress, air compresses. This is why you only need to keep the engine slightly rich during breakin. Only so much fuel is needed between the piston and sleeve. Running blubbering rich just blows excess fuel out of every orifice in the engine it can find, cracks pistons, bends rods, wears out bushings and bearings, breaks OWB bearings.....
if it is really cold outside then yes, the head needs to be covered a little to help with the temps.
The key is just to not rev it high until it gets about 1/2 to 3/4 a gallon thru it.

 

[MonstrousMikey]

ran it today. started up pretty quickly but would not keep running. it can't idle on its own i have to hold just a little throttle but not to much or it dies and after a few seconds it dies anyway. i leaned it out, and richened it up. i can't get to the 200 degree mark if i can't keep it running to get it up to temperature. i thought i didnt have to mess with my needles until i was broken in?? any more help would be much appreciated

 

[Scrogg]

Turn the idle up until it idles for a few seconds on it's own. You can do this with the idle screw on the carb. Be careful not to let it idle high with the truck sitting still, the clutch will drag and heat up resulting in melted spur gears and early clutchbearing failure. You will have to slowly blip the throttle every 5 seconds or so to keep it running. If you listen closely you'll hear the engine rpms start to drop, that's when you gently apply some throttle.
Are you driving it?
Don't worry too much about the idling two or three tanks with the wheels off the ground.
Drive it in figure eights slowly varying the rpms.
If it does not want to move at all when you apply the throttle, the HSN is too rich. Lean it until it moves the truck with very little hesitation.
Rule of thumb
The LSN controls fuel flow from idle to 1/4 throttle, the HSN takes over after 1/4 throttle and up. So lean it where it sounds too rich. Always allow a few minutes between adjustments for the engine to come up to the new temp. But if it keeps shutting off lean it until it runs. once it's warm you can richen it back up.
You won't hurt anything unless you rev the engine really high before it is ready.
Put a MC-59 plug in it to finish break-in. That's a hot plug and will idle much better.
After breakin you can stay with those plugs but you will get a little better performance from a MC8 or 9.
You may need to add the sock or some tinfoil if it is running too cool. The engine wanting to run cool is a good sign. It means you have a nice leak free engine, that is going to scream once it breaks in. Considering the outside temps these days if you can get good performance at 180F, let it be. Some engines run good at these temps, some don't. No two engines are the same.
A lot of my buddy's high end race engines do not like to run any warmer than 210, they start too lean out if you get them any hotter.

 

[MonstrousMikey]

excellent tips, thank you for your time and sharing your experience i appreciate it. theres snow on the ground now so when it clears up it'll be time for take 3 on break-in. i will apply this advice. p.s. i know the temp sensor isnt faulty because i can touch the engine even at the base no problem at the highest temp i got the engine at.. about 93