Brand spanking new T-Maxx broken

[robriguez]

Friend of mine just took his T-Maxx out the box yesterday. We watched the DVD, we read the instructions, Just for the hell of it I made him run through 6 tanks before we opened her up to WOT for a few seconds. All of this was done in a local parking lot yesterday afternoon.

Last night, we decided to take the cars out again and while running in some grass (about 4-5 inched high) the Maxx was running beautiful. It was flat land, no big bumps, we didint dare to jump anything until he got used to the truck. But after about 10 min there was the crunching noise then clicking then no rear wheel drive. Fronts were spinning but nothing on the rear. Picked the truck up to find that the rear drive shaft was missing.

I couldnt beleive that they put a 'plastic' drive shaft on a truck like the Maxx. I would have though that they would have beefed this thing up to allow you to bash right out of the box. After closer inspection it seems that the plastic parts actually stretched and broke. grrrrr

Has anyone else had this problem? I read tons of posts on broken arms, gears, axles but never heard about a drive shaft breaking. Or rather drive tube....

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

Those telescoping driveshafts were probably my biggest complaint on the truck. I went all shiny CVD's but it was expensive.

 

[massivex]

I broke the differential transfer yolk (attached to shaft) and lost front power.
It was during a cold snap in winter. However that doesn't change the fact that it's all plastic. You spent a grand (CDN) for the truck and you can plan on spending another grand on aftermarkets before the thing will really bash and not break.

Welcome to Traxxas country!

 

[NCNitro]

My shafts were all twisted too after only 6 tanks with an OS engine. I replaced all mine with Dynamite CVDs. I hate plastic driveshafts.

 

[Nitroaddict]

not to be a jerk - but does the TMAXX really come with plastic cvd's? why woud they do that? i thought that the tmaxx was supposed to be the ulitmate monster truck.

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

yes they are plastic and no their not constant velocity drives their telescoping drive shafts WAY different than a CVD. And yes they were smokin somthing.

 

[Nitroaddict]

that doesn't coorelate to the rest of the truck does it? my frined is torn between several monster trucks, and that is on the top of his list. he doesn't have tons of money though, and i dont want to recommend something that is going to need alot of repair

 

[robriguez]

I have heard alot of people on this board say that they have broken many things on their Maxx before it became bullet proof. Personally I would never buy one for the fact that I would have to upgrade soo much of the stock one before I would be happy with it.

If/When I do get a truck it will be a Savage or possibly a Monster Titan. And this experience has proved it to me.

 

[Nitroaddict]

those were his other two choices - the titan and the savage. or wait till the AE monster truck debuts

 

[robriguez]

Isnt the AE supposed to be the biggest on the market?? I've heard it was HUGE. Or am I mistaking it for something else?

Does anyone have a link I can give my firend on where to get some good CVDs... They can't be toooo expensive right...less than $100???

 

[Nitroaddict]

check out the thread in the general monster truck section, it has lots of text and pics about the AE truck. as for the cvd'd, i dont own a monster truck , so i dont know, but u could try RPM, they carry lots of stuff for the TMAXX

 

[pseudorhombicubictahedron]

Originally posted by robriguez
Isnt the AE supposed to be the biggest on the market?? I've heard it was HUGE. Or am I mistaking it for something else?

Does anyone have a link I can give my firend on where to get some good CVDs... They can't be toooo expensive right...less than $100???

yes it is around an inch bigger in every direction compared to the savage.

 

[Maxxcrazy88]

I have the 2.5 and haven't twisted any drive shafts yet... Huh who knows....

 

[SkyMaxx]

Originally posted by Maxxcrazy88
I have the 2.5 and haven't twisted any drive shafts yet... Huh who knows....

Probably because you don't have it dialed in J?K

The telescoping axles are a big weakness on the new T-Maxx. The new engine and most hop-up engines over-torque them fairly easily. A good set of CVDs will take care of that.

I run a mostly metal drive train, but have left my center drive axles as the stock telescoping axles. I over-torque them almost everytime I run them, but it sure beats the hell out of crushing a diff or something in the tranny. Always leave a weak link in the drive train...and make it one that is cheap and easy to replace.

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

Originally posted by robriguez
Isnt the AE supposed to be the biggest on the market?? I've heard it was HUGE. Or am I mistaking it for something else?

Does anyone have a link I can give my firend on where to get some good CVDs... They can't be toooo expensive right...less than $100???

I paid $149 for 6 MIP shiny CVD's. And he can buy a Maxx and they will not break unless he takes a 20ft jump or tortureous constant sideways acceleration. The T-maxx is very tuff stock and it takes a lot of money to make ANYTHING bulletproof. There are tougher stock trucks but not faster and I wanted faster with tthe option to make tougher and thats why I chose the T. If you want tougher but way slower try like 12mph out of the box the the Savage would be a good choice. Just remember the T-maxx is a light nimble powerful racer out of the box and with all the hop-ups out for it you could go any way you want with it.

Originally posted by Maxxcrazy88
I have the 2.5 and haven't twisted any drive shafts yet... Huh who knows....

The just dont "snap" under power or at least mine didnt. The twist under acceleration which robs your power and mine kept breaking where they connect to the ball with the posts. The little plastic holes that held the post kept breaking alowing it to twist even further.

 

[robriguez]

Originally posted by humboldtblazer
The just dont "snap" under power or at least mine didnt. The twist under acceleration which robs your power and mine kept breaking where they connect to the ball with the posts. The little plastic holes that held the post kept breaking alowing it to twist even further.

Thats exactly what happened to his Maxx. What ticked us off was that he was running the stock 2.5, barely broken in, very rich, on flat land, no jumps, very few small bumps, grass was like 4" tall but he really wasn't WOT yet and the rear broke.

 

[wdavidhicks]

I have the new T-Maxx and I love it. It's the first nitro I've owned and it's a performer.

I've found through painful experience already it needs some armor. A well-placed culvert in your friend's yard takes out arms and shocks quickly.

I had aluminum bulkheads and chassis rails already and was planning aluminum arms, but not soon enough to protect the shock I lost.

I didn't mean to drive it like I stole it.

 

[massivex]

You should consider the RPM arms. Nylon is lighter and will last longer than the aluminum. My teacher was a curb!

 

[NCNitro]

Originally posted by robriguez

Does anyone have a link I can give my firend on where to get some good CVDs... They can't be toooo expensive right...less than $100???

I use the Dynamite CVDs, they are real nice, they come with boots too. It cost me just under a hundred for a full set.

Dynamite CVDs

They have outstanding customer service too!