I just got done finishing up mods. I went to tweak my new ofna throttle mod and now I'm pissed. My brakes are literally impossible to engage. At 125%$ epa the brakes dont even engage. Not to mention the sero saver is pushed against the radio box. Manually it takes a whole lot of pushing to get them where i like them. Could i have installed the dual brakes wrong or is it something else?
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Brakes
- Thread starter PiErow
- Start date
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Something doesn's sound right. You need to first loosen all the collars for the throttle and brakes. Center your servo arm. Adjust your throttle first and tighten the collars for the throttle. Now adjust your brakes. First move the brake arm forward until just before it engages, hold that position and now tighten the first collar for the brake. You may have to shorten or lengthen the piece of fuel tubing to suit your brake strength.
If this still doesn't work could you post a pic and maybe it'd be easier to help since there are so many variations on the throttle/brake mod.
If this still doesn't work could you post a pic and maybe it'd be easier to help since there are so many variations on the throttle/brake mod.
Last edited:
T
tannera
Guest
when you push the brake arm does the brakes work then if it dosen't the you might have forgot to put metal thing that pushes the brake pads on the discs.
Extended LCG TVPs
I would go with Vertigo Performance Race This Chassis in your choice of aluminum or CF. I have their stock CF plates and they are awesome. My next set will be the Race This Chassis in CF.
http://www.vertigoperformance.com/products_savage.html
Twisted Toys also makes super strong extended LCG TVPs in 4MM aluminum. You might want to PM SKIP he has the hook up.
Just my humble opinion of course....
I would go with Vertigo Performance Race This Chassis in your choice of aluminum or CF. I have their stock CF plates and they are awesome. My next set will be the Race This Chassis in CF.
http://www.vertigoperformance.com/products_savage.html
Twisted Toys also makes super strong extended LCG TVPs in 4MM aluminum. You might want to PM SKIP he has the hook up.
Just my humble opinion of course....
I'd talk to SKIP then, I believe he has a design that extends but doesn't lower the chassis. PM me if you need his number.
Take a pic of it, maybe we can help you anyway?
Here's a pic of mine:
I've changed it a little since then, but it worked ok anyway.
Here's a pic of mine:
I've changed it a little since then, but it worked ok anyway.
If your brakes are too sensitive/strong, you can either turn down the EPA or increase the length of the fuel tubing.
- Thread starter
- #12
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27894
that thread has all the pics.
that thread has all the pics.
PiErow said:
The shorter the fuel line, the less progressive the brakes. WIthout any fuel line and with the linkage set up correctly, the brakes would be more of an on/off switch. THere wouldn't be nearly as much a gradual braking feel to them.
Olds is correct, you will need to find that balance between the sensitivity and strength of your brakes. If they are too strong, turn down the EPA. If they are too sensitive, increase the amount of fuel tubing.
Did you make sure your brakes are not dragging at idle position?
Did you make sure your brakes are not dragging at idle position?
- Thread starter
- #16
If they dont drag then they are not strong enough. I dont get this arrrgggg...
I will just keep tinkering with it. Although right now my nova head leaks causing the engine to run like poop. With the car able to move i need no brakes. I hope i get the brakes working. I have never been any good at linkages or electronics(servos)...
I will just keep tinkering with it. Although right now my nova head leaks causing the engine to run like poop. With the car able to move i need no brakes. I hope i get the brakes working. I have never been any good at linkages or electronics(servos)...
- Thread starter
- #17
Ok i have been doing some reserch. Diesel when i watched your throttle linkage mod vid your servo was barely pulling the brake rod back. When it is set like that is that giving you full break?
Where yours stopped in the vidd mine just starts to engage at that point. I am almost positive i dont have the screws tightened down all the ay that hold the brake assembly. Thats all it could be at this point.
Where yours stopped in the vidd mine just starts to engage at that point. I am almost positive i dont have the screws tightened down all the ay that hold the brake assembly. Thats all it could be at this point.
Yes, my brakes were fully enagaged when the servo was pulled all the way back. When you installed the dual disk brake set-up you might have to add a washer or two to tighten the gap between the brake pads and the disks. Check it out and see what you think. I know it will be a pain because you will need to remove one TVP and rear bulkhead to access the brake screws.
- Thread starter
- #19
I dont have to remove the tvp. The rear bulk is just a few screws nothing complicated. Then all you have to do is loosen all the screws on the tvps giving you wiggle room. Slide the engine plate out and boom straight access. I'm at my moms so it will be a while...