Bomb proff Tranny options...PLEASE HELP!!!

[30%NitroBoy]

WHaddup guys and gals,

Well.......I've got most everything I want to make my Maxx a Bad ass MOFO with a HUGE emphassis on structural integrity more then anything. It will be plenty fast but "bomb proofing" was of the upmost important for this beast. My tranny is in total pieces and shows no signs of damage or excess wear. I was running more power through it with a 2.5 with Sirio Piston/Sleeve and Rod but that's still nothing compared to a real Big Bore. I also wasn't running allot of low gearing but I will be.

Traxxas isn't stupid as they put sealed bearings where they absolutely need them and no where else....lol It looks like all of the sealed tranny gears in the tranny are more then acceptable so I don't need to replace any of those.

I know their's a plehtora of metal tranny gears from great Compaines like Robinson Racing and UE. I haven't seen any titanium gears (Titanium does deteriorate faster then steel) and I'd rather not add the rotational mass of steel unless it's necessary.

Assuming I do a FOC to eliminate all those other damn gears (lol)...what would be the most bomb proof solution for the T-maxx tranny gears. I've been spending money on my Maxx and other project trucks like it's going out of style. I hope I don't have to spend a fortune. I'd really love to here from some people with real world experience on the subject. I have important ($$$$) races in a week and a half so time isn't something on my side.

TIA guys

 

[FSTFBDY]

I beat the snot outa my maxx with a sirio .18 and havent destroyed the stock tranny yet. Then again I'm still running a stock slutch right now so I'm sure it sjust slipping rather then eating up any gears yet.

 

[30%NitroBoy]

Originally posted by FSTFBDY
I beat the snot outa my maxx with a sirio .18 and havent destroyed the stock tranny yet. Then again I'm still running a stock slutch right now so I'm sure it sjust slipping rather then eating up any gears yet.

Sup bro..

I might get the Sirio .18 Mod'd by EBMods...we'll c. I need to have a tranny that's as strong and reliable as possible. I also wanna be able to slap this tranny in a big bore conversion running insane ammounts of power if I feel the need. I'll be running the lowest gearing possible that I can run without the truck just flipping over.....could you imainge the torque from a 16T clutchbell and a 76tooth spur...haha....probably need a wheelie bar. That setup would twist the stock sliders in about 2 seconds..lol.

Peace

 

[FSTFBDY]

I run stock gearing now will flip it on its back with wheelies. and this is what I keep doing to stock sliders.

I've got worse then this also. and thats puting a dowl rod all the way in em. I've heads it helps some. I guess it did a little as these arnt twisted as bad os ones with out.. I deff need some CVD's and cluth and diff. gearing still.

Good Luck. I'm sure someone will chime in and help ya. Prob gona say get a full steel conversion.

 

[30%NitroBoy]

Yeah dude......wasn't I just telling you to get CVD's on a thread the other day?? Dowel rods.....DAMN DUDE...phuck that chit. Even a TC3 RTR comes with composite CVD's that can handle some real electric or nitro power/torque in a NTC3. Traxxas knows their stock sliders suck except with total TOP END gearing. The T-maxx should come with sliders stock but Traxxas likes to build everything themselves for warranty and other, that's cool but they need to design a less SUCKTASTIC driveline system for the best selling Nitro monster truck on the planet (GRIPE, GRIPE, GRIPE). I love the T-maxx desing and by the end of 2004 I might have two pimped out Maxx's......but I'll probably NEVER buy another Traxxas car or truck again. You need to get a Wheelie bar for shizzle nizzle.

Peace

 

[FSTFBDY]

Ya, CVDs are on the list but not top priority since I have a Bag full of sliders left. then I'll get some cvd's

I just picked up a sirio .18 pipe. a better clutch is next so I dont slip this stocker while in the mud. Then I'll need the CVD's

 

[30%NitroBoy]

Originally posted by FSTFBDY
Ya, CVDs are on the list but not top priority since I have a Bag full of sliders left. then I'll get some cvd's

I just picked up a sirio .18 pipe. a better clutch is next so I dont slip this stocker while in the mud. Then I'll need the CVD's

THe Siro pipe is SWEET and sounds bad ass with my 2.5 with the Sirio Goodies. It's pratically cheap compred to many pipes on the market. Go check out Trinity's site for the proper mod to the Sirio header with the Sirio pipe. I payed $36 shipped for the pipe on E-bay Rc seller. I'll just keep my sliders as none are bent or tweaked, I'm gonna build a Maxx drag car and the sliders might work fine as is evident from racers I know with TONS of POWER (Mod'd Picco .26's) all geared for top end.

EDIT - Here ya go dude....
"Below are some tips to get the MOST performance out of your Sirio TX-18. Let the wheelies begin.

Performance Settings for Sirio Performance Pipe


Header: Cut 3/8” back
Ambient temp: 32-40F (yeah.. it's cold in Jersey!)
Plug:
Standard: Nova Rossi #C6
Turbo: Nova Rossi # C6TGC
Mid Range: Fixed
High End Needle: 7-1/4 to 7-1/2
Low End Needle:1-1/2
Fuel: Trinity Power Blend 20% (MH0020 Qts / MH4020 Gallons)
Head Shims: Standard (1 thick/1 thin)
Receiver pack: Trinity #5304 5 cell (Needs female end to be soldered)

With higher ambient temp it is advisable to use #7 plugs from Sirio or NovaRossi and recheck settings. They may need to be changed to a richer setting. We have found using Nova Rossi Plugs gives the best performance under these cold conditions. We also used Trinity 8100 glow Ignitors for quicker starts with the cold weather".

SO basically....make sure you gut back your header 3/8th's of an inch. I don't c the need to run expensive NovaRossi or Sirio.

Peace

 

[FSTFBDY]

yep, already know them tips, Thanks thought. As said befor I already cut the header back with the pipe I have now and I ceramic coated it. and I have 5 spaid sirio #7 plugs that came with the rig when I bought it..

I'm only running 10% right now also..... About a gallon for 20 through it. and I'm finishing up the last of some 10% I had around. I'm thinking about shimming the head and slaping in the turbo button and tryin out some 30%

 

[30%NitroBoy]

Originally posted by FSTFBDY
yep, already know them tips, Thanks thought. As said befor I already cut the header back with the pipe I have now and I ceramic coated it. and I have 5 spaid sirio #7 plugs that came with the rig when I bought it..

I'm only running 10% right now also..... About a gallon for 20 through it. and I'm finishing up the last of some 10% I had around. I'm thinking about shimming the head and slaping in the turbo button and tryin out some 30%

My bad...lol. I was confusing you for somone else. As for Turbo heads...IME they aren't worth the money but many will swear by them. I say, try out a turbo head on a big open area or racetrack...if your beating your buddies with the same equipment then maybe the Turbo head is doing something worth while.

I'm getting UE's FOC and I'll probably end up getting RObinson's Steel primary. Anyone wanna chime in??

Peace

 

[marc0490]

:violin: wasn't this a tranny ?????-Marc

 

[30%NitroBoy]

Originally posted by marc0490
:violin: wasn't this a tranny ?????-Marc

YOu mean wasn't this a tranny thread and I deviated off subject?? My bad but I did start the thread..lol.

Peace

 

[bashmaster]

how much can sliders twist and still work?
I'm getting ready to drop an EPic .18 in a T with a stock tranny and driveline. will i be running into problems?

 

[olds97_lss]

I ran with the traxxas FOC for about a gallon with my OS 21 RG-X(P). I ripped up two spur shaft 2 spead gears though. I've replaced everything since with RRP's steel that i can (thank my wife for that christmas gift). Still without reverse though. Didn't really care to have it anyway. It seems that the stock trans gears with the FOC will hold up for awhile. But i would recommend putting in at least the RRP spur shaft 2 speed gear.

 

[30%NitroBoy]

Originally posted by bashmaster
how much can sliders twist and still work?
I'm getting ready to drop an EPic .18 in a T with a stock tranny and driveline. will i be running into problems?

Sup man,

You shouldn't have any problems with your stock sliders with the stock gears that pretty high and can be geared higher. The claimed HP for that engine is like 1.8. If you run lower gearing you could very well tweak or even break the stock drivelines. THeir's guys on here with a Trx 2.5 engine that dropped in a 16T clutch bell with the stock 72T spur and twisted the chit out of the sliders. Let us know how that engine works out for ya bro and good luck. The T-maxx should come with some kind of CVD's from Traxxas....period. They know the stock sliders can't handle any real low end torque.....puke.

Back to the subject, I've decided to get the Alluminum primary from UE. The Steel Primary from RRP is nice but to much rotational mass for my taste.

EDIT - Bashmaster.....scroll up on the thread to FSTbdy's pic. He says he running stock high gearing and a Sirio .18 that's very similar or only slight more powerfull then the engine you'll be running. Look at his sliders....they're tweaked.

Peace