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bogs bogs dies

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nitro_freak_123

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hey u guys i just wanted to a a quick question if i may :)


when i try to run my truck at full speed it bogs if i carry going on like this it dies on me :wasted: :wasted:


can any1 tell me wats up with it

i got a thundertiger ssk v1 pro-5bxs pullstart engine

heres a pic


 
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yes its way to big you need to remove it and put up a link. as far as bogging at high rpm does it bog (idle down) or miss (kinda like slamming a rev limitor) sounds to me like your a bit lean, what temps are you running??
 
beason i dont know aint got a temp gun but i no its fu*i**n hot dude

its ok at ildeling



so do u still think its too lean dude ???? kepp me posted
 
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did you do the spit test?
you really need at least a cheepo temp gun. if it way hot try richining up the hsn a couple hours and see what it does then.
 
ok i run it 6 turns out b4 and it run lovely that 1 turn out from wat they say in the instruction booklet but the fuel dont last long like that

yes i done the spit test after two tanks it was sizziling i am getting a temp gun do u now for any good ones on the net


its better too rich than too lean right ?
 
nether is "better" but your safe to run a touch rich, if its sizzlin you need to richen it up.
 
how about the pinch test?

You want to do this as close to the carb as possible. That is ideal.

The way it works:

Pinch the fuel line and if it dies or wants to die before 3 seconds, its too lean. richen the HSN.

If it blubbers or wants to die but stuters for more than 5 seconds its too rich. Lean the HSN. From there retune the LSN to get the best accelleration without bogging out.


With each change you do to either needle, run it a little bit to see how she reacts and then try the spit test. Don't try and doo all the changes at once.

Try this out and let us know.
 
cool, i was under the influence that the pinch was only for the low end. you can use it for tuneing the hsn also?? waddya know learn something new every day...
 
Wow...no LSN? Well, anyways, just continue(Only lean/richen the HSN.) and it's one less needle to worry about. The only other thing that comes to mind is break in. How did you do break in?

Are you racing or bashing? If you're bashing, you're going to always want it a TAD rich.
 
beason said:
cool, i was under the influence that the pinch was only for the low end. you can use it for tuneing the hsn also?? waddya know learn something new every day...
I have never been told it was really needle specific. Still works for me.
 
Get some inexpensive infrared temp gun,like a Duratrax Flashpoint. An easy way to know the temp0 of your engine and richen when running too hot.

A temp gun is a must,will save you time and trouble.

:2cents:
 
First, go and richen it up. Then do the experiments.
Your gonna frazzel your engine if you run to lean.
 
The TT Engines are known, to me at least, to be problematic. If the HSN is too rich it will bog and die, if its too lean it will bog and die. If there is even so much as a TINY air leak in the manifold at the header it will bog and die.

Best thing to do I've found is set to the factory reccomendations, turn the HSN out by 1/4 - 1/2 turn more and youll be ok, when setting the LSN, you need to take it back to factory setting and tune from there.

MEMORISE THE FACTORY SETTINGS for HSN & LSN and that way, if you ever need to, you can reset them and work back from them again.

Check the manifold seal while you about it, it could be damaged or the header could be warped.
 
Monkey Wrench said:
Personally, I've never heard of an engine without at least two needles. If you truly only have one, then this problem should be pretty easy to fix.

The only engine I have owned with one needle was an HPI fe 15, it was very easy to tune but lacked the performance of a multiple needle carb.
 
The way I would do it if my engine was totally out of tune (requires temp. gauge):

1. Reset the needles to stock settings (including idle gap).

2. Run the car until the chassis gets warm.

3. Check the temperature (with a gauge at glow plug) by pulling right up to you after running the car (not idling) and shoot for a range of 230-250 degrees F. If it is hotter, richen the HSN 1/12th turn (1 hour). If it is cooler, lean the HSN 1/12th turn. Smoke should be visible from low to mid rpms while accelerating or you are running too lean.

4. Once that is in the right temperature range, run the car some more, and bring it in quickly. Pinch the fuel line next to the carb, and see how many seconds it takes to kill the engine. If it takes less than 3 seconds, richen the LSN 1/12th turn, if it takes more than 5 seconds, lean the LSN 1/12th turn. Smoke should be visible from low to mid rpms while accelerating or you are running too lean.

5. Re-check to make sure that the LSN adjustment didn't put you outside of the temperature range (adjust accordingly w/ HSN if so).

6. Once HSN and LSN are set as listed above, adjust the idle to be as high as possible without engaging the clutch. Lift the car off of the ground, so that all four wheels are not touching, and adjust the idle as high as you can without causing the wheels to spin. Adjusting the idle screw clockwise will cause the idle to increase, and vice versa.

7. Repeat this process from step 2 on any time the weather changes, you change fuel, exhaust, glow plugs, if engine performance changes, or at the beginning of a new day of driving.

NOTE: Allow at least 30 seconds of driving in between adjusting needles to see the full effect of changes made.
 
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i think the seal around the header is split only a little bit thpugh would this affect the performce of my ride ??

if so do u rekon i can buy just the seal for the header or would i have to by a new header


yes MONKEY i have only got a hsn
 
Are you sure about only having one needle?

Here is an image of a 3 needle carb. If you have a two needle carb it will look similar, except:

1.) The Low Speed Needle (LSN) will be where the middle (medium) speed needle would be.

2.) There won't be anything where the low speed needle is.


cmb-r4-carb.jpg
 
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