Best buggy engine?

[muscle-head]

ws7 II

hey vb. i run the ws7 II it cost a bit but it screams in my k3. i got mine from a place where you can get it broken in on a dyno machine for 45 dollars and when you put it in it is ready to go. no breaking in process. it was definately worth the 345 and some change

 

[MAXXRACER87]

Where did you buy from???At that price i want one too!

OH...I see where.......fleabay....nevermind!!!

 

[dpk136]

Where did you buy that muscle-head. I might be buying another buggy when i get back. but i would get a kit this time. That sounds awesome.

 

[vbgagnon]

the reason i wasn't too worried is because my father in law bought one from this guy too.

 

[Maxx Trooper]

Well guys, I got myself a XTM 24.7 pro for $75 brand new shipped! For that price I figured that I couldn't go wrong. Does anybody know where I can get a backplate without the pullstart?

kinda like this?http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44028&item=5907710929&rd=1

i just picked up a brand new HPI S-.25 for $75 off eBay along with a bunch of parts for my buggy under $20.

later

 

[ZANDOR]

here is the best buggy mill out there IMO..i run this and you want to talk about power bottom mid and top..scarry fast...back filping power..running it in my pcr 310$

http://www.crispycrittershobbyshop.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=16151&cat=270&page=1

 

[Maxx Trooper]

i personally wouldnt buy any engine over $300 if I'm just gona bash. now if i was a hardcore racer then ya. but other wise, I'm a basher and stickin with cheap engines.. like the HB .26 or the HPI S-.25.

later

 

[Nitro_Freak]

that is a super nice engine zandor, but most people don't have $300+ to spend on an engine. there's engines 95% as good as that rb for $150-$200 out there imo

 

[ZANDOR]

that is a super nice engine zandor, but most people don't have $300+ to spend on an engine. there's engines 95% as good as that rb for $150-$200 out there imo

ya but are you going to get 5 plus gallons of fule out of it???I have two plus out of my ws711 and its still as good as new so weigh the cost with the price..as hard as i run..i whould have gone through 3 cheap mills at that rate. and belive me i have.So i went bigger better..and have had no problems.rb rocks.I do belive you get what you pay for.so 2 gallons latter running strong.like day one..should be able to pull atlest 6 gallons through her..can you say that for a picco.or hb.or any other cheap mill..my awnser NO..you can't so 300 bones is cheap.concidering what you get.buy cheap you get cheap..
oh and no you won't find a mill thats 95% of a rb for 150$

 

[vbgagnon]

well zandor i have 3.5 gallons through my hyper 8 port and it is running better than it ever has. granted it doesn't have as much top end as yours but depending where you run it you'll never get to really stretch its legs. Its all where you ride. That 24.7 is going to perfect for me because my track is technical as hell and only has one 125 ft straight, so imo the ws72 would get killed by a 24.7 on my track. I race my pcr against a guy with a mugen mbx4 with a rb c5, and the only time that he passes me is on that straight.
So don't say when you buy cheap you get cheap because the hyper 8 port is a kick ass engine $120, and so is the 24.7 pro. $156 new. I do agree that rb makes great engines, but i'm not going to spend 300 clams on one engine thats just me. 300 is almost another rc!

 

[Maxx Trooper]

u can't get 5 plus gallons out of any engine, depending on how u drive it, where, how good u keep the condition of the engine. The old TRX .15 engines, i know guys getting 6-10 gallons before the thing died. I will stick with what u call "cheap" engines.

later

 

[WA2FAST]

I know that my next engine will be the WS7II for sure... I know that it is a little above the mentioned price range, but can't beat the performance, reliability, and it's in the engine club of what all of the race winners use anyway, so that does it for me.

 

[niggle]

Backplate without a pullstart would probably require you to cut the rear of the crank (fun) or replace the crank as well.

If the 24.7 is like the other SH engines then it's easy to convert to non-pull start:

Remove the pull start.
Remove the pull start shaft.
Remove the back plate.
Remove the one-way bearing.
Use a short nut and bolt and some hi-temp RTV to plug the hole in the back plate where the pull start shaft used to go. Make sure the bolt head is inside the crankcase and the nut is on the outside of the back plate. Use a nyloc nut and/or threadlock. A domed nut would be really neat.
Refit the back plate.