Best 2S LiPo battery for a stock DR10

[Pompanator]

I was wondering if anyone can recommend a S2 LiPo battery for drag racing a stock DR10. Preferably, with Deans connectors.
I'm a newb, but I was thinking something with 7.6 volts? Do I have the correct train of thought? Or is it not so simple?
thank you.

 

[DavidB1126]

A normal 2s LiPo is 7.4v (3.7v/cell at storage)
A normal 2s LIHV (Lithium High Voltage) is 7.6v (3.8v/cell at storage)

The difference between a normal lipo and a high voltage one is the extra voltage so with that, it can give you a little more run time (depending on the size of the battery) and will give you a little of extra punch.

You should be able to use both 2s LiPo and 2s LiHV if the ESC and motor is 3s capable. (Which I believe it is)

Now if your just running it for fun, either can do, but if your racing like at a club or track, they might have certain battery rules, if so, I would check in first.

For a stock DR10, you don't need nothing fancy like what the pros use. Looks like both any stick or shorty lipo packs.

I would check out CNHL, SMC, Liperior for batteries.

If your going to like what the pros use, maybe check out Maclan and ProTek.

(Idk too much about drag so this is why this is super bland)

 

[Pompanator]

A normal 2s LiPo is 7.4v (3.7v/cell at storage)
A normal 2s LIHV (Lithium High Voltage) is 7.6v (3.8v/cell at storage)

The difference between a normal lipo and a high voltage one is the extra voltage so with that, it can give you a little more run time (depending on the size of the battery) and will give you a little of extra punch.

You should be able to use both 2s LiPo and 2s LiHV if the ESC and motor is 3s capable. (Which I believe it is)

Now if your just running it for fun, either can do, but if your racing like at a club or track, they might have certain battery rules, if so, I would check in first.

For a stock DR10, you don't need nothing fancy like what the pros use. Looks like both any stick or shorty lipo packs.

I would check out CNHL, SMC, Liperior for batteries.

If your going to like what the pros use, maybe check out Maclan and ProTek.

(Idk too much about drag so this is why this is super bland)

Thank you for your insight. Very helpful. Your response led me to a more basic question: AM I correct in thinking that higher voltage would help me attain faster speed? Or is it more complex? Tnx again

 

[ahr43]

2S RTR DR10 comes with a 3300mAh 7.4v (30C?) full length battery pack. Were it me, that's what I'd consider the minimum to begin a replacement search for.

"C" rating is important in RC drag racing. Buy the most C-rating you can afford. RC drag cars are made for hard acceleration. That places demands on the battery pack that quickly draws down the rated voltage. The higher the C-rating, the less likely the battery is to voltage sag under acceleration.

For casual drag racing and perhaps bracket class racing, there is a 5000mAh 7.4v 60C Gens brand that will probably meet the need. And it has a Dean's end. I use one of those on my 33ft (scale 1/16mi) drag strip and it holds voltage o.k. for six runs. Both 2WD and 4WD drive packages use it. 4 tuning runs and 2 scoring runs on a single battery charge.

As things get more serious, you'll need to bump up both the mAh rating and especially the C-rating. My inventory includes a 2S x 5000 100C battery I like for final eliminations. That assures me negligible voltage sag for elimination runs. Personally, looking to add a 2S ~100Cish in the 6000-7000mAh range at 7.6V into my mix. As you add mAh, you add weight. Finding a balance between battery power and weight that works for you is important.

As you begin to look to more mAh and C-rates, then connectors and bullet sizes begin to come into play. You'll need to decide if and to what you'll need to change to then. Hope this helps. Good luck and quick times to you. Cheers. 'AC'

Thank you for your insight. Very helpful. Your response led me to a more basic question: AM I correct in thinking that higher voltage would help me attain faster speed? Or is it more complex? Tnx again

Hey Pompanator, good questions you are asking.

Going from 7.4v to 7.6v with a 3300Kv motor will add ~660 motor rpm at nominal battery voltage. The speed increase won't be noticeable in casual street running, but it will show up on a timing slip at the drag strip. One advantage of using a 7.6 HV motor is less weight of the graphene seperators in the battery pack. Not so important in bashing and casual street running, but vital in competitive RC drag racing. And you can charge a 7.6v HV pack to standard LiPo 7.4v and run it that way if rules require it.

That's one reason AE offers a 3S DR10. Adding battery voltage is where the speed comes from. Again, Good luck. 'AC'

 

[Pompanator]

2S RTR DR10 comes with a 3300mAh 7.4v (30C?) full length battery pack. Were it me, that's what I'd consider the minimum to begin a replacement search for.

"C" rating is important in RC drag racing. Buy the most C-rating you can afford. RC drag cars are made for hard acceleration. That places demands on the battery pack that quickly draws down the rated voltage. The higher the C-rating, the less likely the battery is to voltage sag under acceleration.

For casual drag racing and perhaps bracket class racing, there is a 5000mAh 7.4v 60C Gens brand that will probably meet the need. And it has a Dean's end. I use one of those on my 33ft (scale 1/16mi) drag strip and it holds voltage o.k. for six runs. Both 2WD and 4WD drive packages use it. 4 tuning runs and 2 scoring runs on a single battery charge.

As things get more serious, you'll need to bump up both the mAh rating and especially the C-rating. My inventory includes a 2S x 5000 100C battery I like for final eliminations. That assures me negligible voltage sag for elimination runs. Personally, looking to add a 2S ~100Cish in the 6000-7000mAh range at 7.6V into my mix. As you add mAh, you add weight. Finding a balance between battery power and weight that works for you is important.

As you begin to look to more mAh and C-rates, then connectors and bullet sizes begin to come into play. You'll need to decide if and to what you'll need to change to then. Hope this helps. Good luck and quick times to you. Cheers. 'AC'

Hey Pompanator, good questions you are asking.

Going from 7.4v to 7.6v with a 3300Kv motor will add ~660 motor rpm at nominal battery voltage. The speed increase won't be noticeable in casual street running, but it will show up on a timing slip at the drag strip. One advantage of using a 7.6 HV motor is less weight of the graphene seperators in the battery pack. Not so important in bashing and casual street running, but vital in competitive RC drag racing. And you can charge a 7.6v HV pack to standard LiPo 7.4v and run it that way if rules require it.

That's one reason AE offers a 3S DR10. Adding battery voltage is where the speed comes from. Again, Good luck. 'AC'

First, thanks for your service!
Second, thanks for your informative feedback. Your info probably saved me countless hours of testing & wasting lots
of $$$$!!