batteries

[got__nitro?]

I bought 4 rechargabe 2000 mah batts. On them it says they're 1.2 volts. Everyone says alkalines don't have enough power and stuff but on them it says they're 1.5 volts. But doesn't say anything about mah. But it seems to run my electronics the same if not better. They aren't as affected by the cold as much as alkalines. The cold really drains the power on those temperarily. I'm just kinda confused about the voltage and stuff.

 

[jon2]

OK what is the maker of these rechargeable batteries you got? Not real sure why they wouldn't say the current Ampere rating but all the batteries I have bought don't even say the Ampere output. I wouldn't really worry about that . The only time you should worry if they are shady looking. NEXT... how are you using these batts? Are these for the receiver or transmitter or something else? Or are these for electric cars and power the whole car ? LMK! My alkalines seem to work just fine for me in temperatures as low as 50 Degrees Farenheit. I use them all around. My receiver and Transmitter and arejust fine for my needs

 

[got__nitro?]

These are used in my car for the servos and reciever. (nitro rusty) The maker is Digital Concepts. And I'm talkin' temps. like 15 degrees Farenheit. They are way cheaper to run cuz you don't have to throw your batts away and buy new ones every week. (for me anyway)

 

[bashmaster]

hmm
i have rechargable NimH in my transmitter (8) cuz they drain out really fast. and I'm running alkline AA's on the truck (T-MAXX). I'm only 14 so I'm on a tight budget cuz momma wont let me get a job cuz of school, so I'm saving up to get a rechargeable pack for the receiver, any suggestions? i was thinking about getting 4 more recharable AA's(NiMh) to put in the receiver. but I'm also tempted by the extra voltage ofa humpack or a 5cell or stumthin but the MAh and volts are quit confuesing. (especially for me since i havent had any experience and/or classes about serious electricity. (even though i dont think htis is very complicatedtstuff).

PS is it rediculas that i needa job to fuel my hobby alone? my mom says it is but its not unreasonalble to me...

sorry for the long post.
:read: need to learn

 

[pehter]

Here is a couple of good articles you can read:

http://www.greenbatteries.com/documents/battery_myths.htm

http://www.greenbatteries.com/documents/Battery_FAQ.htm

 

[got__nitro?]

Thanx dude now I think I get it.

 

[Mugen-Racer]

I'm using rayovac I-C3 rechargeables. They are 800 mah a piece. Basically with rechargeable batteries, you get a constant power voltage as regular alkalines somewhat tend to spike here and there and don't last as long. Hump packs are normally 5 batteries. 1.2 volts a piece that totals to be 6 volts, equivalent to 4 alkys. Go with rechargeables. Saves you a lot of money in the long run. I got my batteries at Wal-Mart for about $12 for 4 AA's and the charger was like $19 bucks or so. Charges in 15 minutes too.

 

[got__nitro?]

But I only have four one point two Volts. Igot n overnite one with four batts. for 5 bucks--- coupons rock

 

[bashmaster]

whats the difference between rechargable AA;s and a rechargable pack made for r/cs?
I've been seeing ones on ebay for like 20 bucks are they any good?

 

[Robie6]

My own theroy is alkalines are 1.5v so they last longer as they are throw-a-ways to the buyer. But rechargable AA's are 1.2v because there re-usable. Until I got into rc trucks I to thought there was some sort of magic in all this but its pretty simple. Once ya learn things like re-cycling ni-cd, memory its basic. All servos are made to use 6v current, 4.8v means slower movement & less torq (HighTec list these on the side of most of there servo boxes) so if ya have 4-1.5v aa's in your pack add it up--4x1v=4v+4x1/2v=2v for a total of 6v/or 4-1.2v then its 4.8v (4x1v=4v+4x.1/4v=8) or for a hump back rec. 5 pack its 5x1v=5v/ plus 5x.1/4v=1v.=6v:snowman: Even though my rx pack is 4x1.2v ni-cd it'll charge to 5.3v, go figure, def. need a hump pack.

 

[got__nitro?]

But everyone knows that reachargebles last longer. This whole batt thing is confusing and I just don't care anymore. All I can say is NiMH works way better than alkalines. Makes my electronics go into hyper speed. Excepth the throttle servo on the T-maxx but I'm guessing everyne knows how that goes.

 

[Robie6]

NiMH (nickel metal hydride) wont get a memmory like NiCd's. Enough of that. Once you get your NiMH's you'll need a charger-recycler. HobbiCo makes a great one (no sales pitch) that does both kinds, does AA's, Ni-cd & NiMH, 1,4,5 reciever packs, or glow batts. & 6,7,8 trans packs. Look carefully, some chargers will only charge a certan kind of batt. & alot wont charge AA's. they have a instruction book that explains all about batt. Easy

 

[got__nitro?]

What's a charger recycler? If it's simply just a charger the batts. came with one that works for them.

 

[Robie6]

ok, lets try to keep it simple. NiCd recharable's get what is called a memory (something i need) If you have a fully charged NiCd in your ride & say drive it for 1-1/2 hours then take it home & recharge it the NiCd remembers the last time ya shut it off & next time ya go out & run theres a chance the NiCd sees the 1/2 charged as dead & shuts off complety. Not good! A recycler drains the NiCd slowly down to 1v. then fully charges it to max & switches to trickle & keeps it charged on trickle. Its a good rule of thumb to recycle every 30 days if used alot. I saw this happen to a friend who put his radio on charge overnight. The next day we went flying. At 3/4 charge the radio shut off-dead. No need to to explain what happened, $400.00 nose dive. There wasn't enough to take home including an OS-60.
The advantage of NiMh is there make up is different so they get no memmory at all, just charge & go (I still recycle my NiMh's now & then, can't hurt. The reason some batt. packs cost more than others of the same configuration is simple---you get what ya pay for. I have a Trinity 5-cell hump pack in my ride i think i paid somwhere around 35.00 for it. Its a NiMh only cause they didn't have NiCd wich i'm fine with,
and I think ya can fast charge them if your on the track, some packs wont hot-shot without damage. NiCd's are fine with a little heat when charging. NiMh's dont even like themselvs getting warm so ya gotta be carefull when charging.
You can discharge packs with a simple light bulb of the same voltage, Problem is if they kill the pack under 1v or 0v you may lose your pack once there that dead I dont trust them in a 800.00 mt. Thats why recycler's drain only to 1.1v

mill-a-amps (dont even ask me to abrevate that) i believe tells how long you may get out of 1 charge + they run with a little more "umph". I have 2 roto starts. One has a 800millamp 6-pack that cost 9.00. The other i made from 6-2300millamp NiCd c-cells. Total cost was almost 40.00 for conectors, shrink wrap & plugs.It just last longer & seems to have a bit more torq but i may be giving up a little motor life if its heating that guy up.
Anyone with more knowlege in the mill-a-amp dept. please correct me if I'm wrong. I learn something new everyday :jet:

 

[got__nitro?]

Ok. I'm kinda slow at this time of nite, but I did't really get the whole NiCd memory part but do't bother tryin to explain it again, I'm fine really, I don't think i'd ever get it.
Thanx for the help guys,

Nick