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Axial .28 Spec 1s

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SMaxxin

SMaxxin

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I just installed on in my Savage and figured I would made a post on it's performance.

Break IN

The instructions are very simple and easy to understand. They use what is now considered the old school break in, idle through two tanks. I chose to heat cycle the engine.

Break in was very easy, it started and ran with no problems. Although it was 70 degrees outside I did have to wrap the head and made adjustments to the HSN to get the temps over 200.

Tuning after break in

I ran two tanks after break in and had to really twist on the needles to get it up to running temperature. It was running a steady 220-225 and was screaming! This thing is a beast, I can't wait until it's completely broke in to see what it's got.

I'll add to this post from time to time and see how well it lasts. I'll also try to get a video of it.


axial28zu1.jpg
 
.28 vs .30

Thanks for the post. I have been contemplating between the .28 & .32. I have heard good things about these engines. Anyway my question is why did you opt for the .28? Besides price any other factors?

Also how much did you get it for? My LHS has for $139.95 for .28 and $199.95 for .32.

Thanks and Merry Christmas everyone!
 
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sicpwr said:
my question is why did you opt for the .28? Besides price any other factors?
Click to expand...

From what I have seen and read most .32 engines have more torque and turn less rpm's. For me the .28 has plenty of torque and turns a little more rpm's, when I re gear I think it would have more top end than a .32 and still have enough low end to lift the front end at will. Right now it's geared 15/49 and if your not gentle with the throttle it will flip on it's lid...the head is already scratched. A few times it lifted the front shifting into second. This is with only two tanks past break in, I expect it to get a litter stronger once it is fully broken in.

I wanted to buy it with Fasteddy but he couldn't get one at that time so I bought it through Tower Hobbies. You might want to pm him for availability on the .28, he has/had a great deal on a bump start Axial .32....way below any price I have seen.
 
I also agree that most mills bigger than 28's are limited in RPM's but definitely have way more torque. When I had the STS28 and STS 30, the 28 had longer legs to keep going the distance and increasing speed whereas the 30 topped out too fast I even ran 18/52 gearing to try and allow it to get more top end. I couldn't tell. I just noticed the bottom end was more controllable.

I think the Axial as with any will follow the same footprint on most occasions.Where are the finished pics man??
 
jon2 said:
Where are the finished pics man??
Click to expand...

The Savage has been down with stripped gears for a while but it's ready now! I just re geared it 17/47 and ran a tank through it. It still lifts the front very easy and is now showing real speed. Tuning this mill is not as typical as others I have owned...It runs great and has plenty of power but it's a PITA to keep the temp over 200. The outside temp was 67 and by the time I got the temps up the needles were leaner than I would like so I wrapped the head and richened it up a bit. This is the first engine I have had to wrap the head when it's over 50 degrees.

When it dries up I'll try and shoot a vid.
 
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I noticed mine wouldn't run right when I got the temp up to 250. I had to richen it and the temps drop to about 220 and it runs much better on WOT, but the low-mid range is blubbery. I'm hoping it's just because I haven't run much fuel through it yet (less than 1/2 gal). It got cold here before I ran a lot of juice through it, so it's shelved until spring.
 
olds97_lss said:
I'm hoping it's just because I haven't run much fuel through it yet.
Click to expand...

I hoping the same thing, I only have three tanks past break in. I plan on running it more this weekend if weather allows.
 
Just a quick up date...this mill is kicking ass! I'm hoping it gets a little better now that I have found the mid range needle.....I never noticed it had one LOL

I also installed a wheelie bar and the X roll bar, I'll snap pics tomorrow.
 
Pics of the new set up. I with I would have bought the X roll bar when I bought the engine, it wouldn't have the scratch.

savyje1.jpg


savy1ca1.jpg
 
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How do you adjust the mid-range needle? I mean, what do you shoot for when adjusting it?

With the LSN you adjust so your idle isn't erratic and so it doesn't load up badly when sitting for less than 20 seconds. With the HSN, you look for hole shot and WOT running to be clean with some smoke.

As for the MSN, I'm not sure what to do with it...
 
olds97_lss said:
As for the MSN, I'm not sure what to do with it...
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To be honest I have never had to adjust one LOL. I'm having the same issue as you are, a little bubbly in the middle so I'm thinking I will start by leaning it. I'm going to make sure I have it's original setting marked and take it slow, I'll let you know how it goes. My plan is to tune it for sound and response.

If anyone has some suggestions are tips now is the time!
 
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It took 1/16th (lean) of a turn on the msn and the bubbly sound was gone, from a medium slow speed I hit the throttle an the hesitation is gone and so is the Savy!

The bad news is ten minutes later I hear a familiar popping noise coming from the rear.
 
Thanks for the tip. Now if I can remember it when spring rolls around...

Stupid diffs. I have found that running an aluminum diff case (not the spider gear cup) makes for a longer lasting diff ring/pinion. I've never had problems with the 4 spider gears and stock cup. Before I installed a aluminum diff housing, I went through 3 rear diffs (ring/pinion) in about a year. I installed the diff housing over a year ago and haven't had to crack it open since. The aluminum housing lets you shim it properly for a good ring/pinion mesh. And it doesn't flex/warp over time.

I think GPM makes them for about $25 a piece. I only have the one in the rear and haven't needed one in the front.
 
olds97_lss said:
Thanks for the tip. Now if I can remember it when spring rolls around...

Stupid diffs. I have found that running an aluminum diff case (not the spider gear cup) makes for a longer lasting diff ring/pinion. I've never had problems with the 4 spider gears and stock cup. Before I installed a aluminum diff housing, I went through 3 rear diffs (ring/pinion) in about a year. I installed the diff housing over a year ago and haven't had to crack it open since. The aluminum housing lets you shim it properly for a good ring/pinion mesh. And it doesn't flex/warp over time.

I think GPM makes them for about $25 a piece. I only have the one in the rear and haven't needed one in the front.
Click to expand...

I'm planning on running 2wd for a while (my sons truck is a blast) but I will look into the aluminum housing in the rear, it's always the one that breaks.
 

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