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Axial 28 S1 Discussion

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olds97_lss

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Not to spin off on a tangent about my feelings of an axial... but hpinitromt, do you have any tips for someone with an axial that may be having carb related issues?

I have one I bought 2 years ago, ran a gallon or so through it, put it on a shelf for 6 months and it's been junk ever since. Tried many things, sent it back to the mfr, they said it was fine and well taken care of... still no power at all regardless of tune and either runs blubbery rich or screamingly lean at the slightest touch of the screws.

It's been on a shelf for almost a year now... mocking me.


it sounds like you may have a air leak, have you sealed the back plate and carb inlet? and when you stored it, did you take all the fuel out and put after run oil in it?

I didn't want to spin off in another guys thread more than necessary.

To answer your questions:
Back plate sealed: Yes, with RTV
Carb inlet sealed: Yes, around the base of the neck with RTV and around the cinch bolt with RTV.
Stored correctly: Yes and No. I pickled it with ARO and had it in a ziplock when stored the first time. Since the issues I've had with it, no. It's been laying on a bench.

I had also tore the engine completely apart and cleaned the entire thing out with DA. I replaced the front main bearing with a new bearing (as I read they were prone to leakage). I also took the carb completely apart and cleaned all of the needles, journals and inspected the o-rings.

I had sent it to Axial and they sent it back saying it was fine.

The only thing I haven't tried yet was sealing the silver part that holds the HSN assembly around the perimeter of where it meets the composite material. I did hear a while back that it may be leaking there.

The engine has no more than 1.5 gallons through it and pinch is still very heavy. The internals all still shine like new with no scoring or anything in the sleeve or side of the piston.

Any other thoughts would be appreciated.
 
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geez olds, i dont know, it sounds like an air leak but you seem to have it all sealed up good, did you check your fuel tank for leaks? also put new fuel line on, clean your fuel filter and also check that your clutch is working properly
 
geez olds, i dont know, it sounds like an air leak but you seem to have it all sealed up good, did you check your fuel tank for leaks? also put new fuel line on, clean your fuel filter and also check that your clutch is working properly

Man... I hate to keep shooting your suggestions down, but yep. All is good. I pulled the axial and put in an LRP28S3 and it's run fine ever since with the same parts all around.

Maybe if I get a bug up my butt, I'll seal that carb where I had read about and throw it in my buggy just to get some use out of it.
 
it sounds like you went through it all pretty well olds but I would revisit the carb and have a good look at the needles and the boot over the slide. Maybe try the under water test on the carb Hold it under with two fingers covering the intake and the output and try blowing into it with a long piece of fuel line to see if you get any bubbles. I think I have a set of orings for that motor if you need em. Let us know what you find. I've also go some spare head shims, maybe that is out of shape??? I'm still breaking in my spec1 and it's been easy going so far...... Knock on wood
 
i would think that it may be the hsn needle body like you said, its the only thing left, maybe you do need new orings? check em out, and let us know what happens
 
How I check used for air leaks....(when I still had a wonderful thing called a garage)
1. I use an old Savage engine mount, screwed down to a 2x4, mounted to a saw horse
2. Tank and pipe mounted to board.
3. I use a notched belt set-up to a airplane prop for resistance
4. Servo/receiver to run throttle. (Before I went fancy I used a long piece of wire)
5. Run engine at mid throttle used Carb cleaner.....spray around engine lightly. When I would hit a leak, RPM would spike.
The test stand was actually first made for airplane engines then adapted to be able to do ground based engines too.
 
take about 1 ft of fuel line and put it on fuel inlet, plug carb intake, blow in to fuel line and brush around the carb, back plate, HSN, LSN with soapy water.. Works real well for finding air leaks. If you have an air leak it will bubble up..
 
My axial .28 spec 1s had a similar problem and turned out the hsn housing needed just a little tightening. It's been rock-n-roll ever since. Got 4 gallons of blue thunder 30% running a #5 plug so far so good. More torque than my Maxx needs.
 
HIJACK ALERT
I just bought a new front bearing for my 28 s and it is shielded on both sides. The one I took out is only shielded on the one side. Do I take one side off or put it in with both covers on? This is a stock Axial replacement bearing. Thanks and sorry for the Hijack :)
 
Hijack all you want. I sold my axial as is for parts due to it still looking like new. Aside from maybe a new carb, everything else on it was in perfect condition.

As for your bearing question, you can take the back seal out, but leave the front one in. Leaving the back open allows fuel to get to it and wash it with oil as the engine runs.
 
Hijack all you want. I sold my axial as is for parts due to it still looking like new. Aside from maybe a new carb, everything else on it was in perfect condition.

As for your bearing question, you can take the back seal out, but leave the front one in. Leaving the back open allows fuel to get to it and wash it with oil as the engine runs.

Thanks I will do that.:first_place:
 
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