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beason

Bash, Fix, Repeat..
Messages
7,012
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17
Location
Webster, TX
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
as some of you know i have been holding a "bashfest" on sundays for some local guys.. its been great fun and my savage has held up well.. but we are in the workings of putting in a track behind my house and the "bashfests" will migrate to said track.. here lies my problem.. my savage although on of the best bashers out there doesn't handle worth a crap.. to much gas you get understeer.. off the gas it turns ok but you SLOW DOWN (bad thing in a race) tap the breaks and so much oversteer it flips (will do this at times when there is understeer going along and BAM it just flipps over..) so i ask you savage racers.. what can i do (cheeply??) to make my savage more raceable without loosing my bashablility.. I've got stock tires.. purple springs.. (also have "brown?? (factory 25)" and silver 6lb springs) high torque servos.. 6v hump pack.. I've already taken spacers out of the springs (1/2in ones) to "lower" it.. keep in mind this isnt goning to be a "pro" track.. so there wont be any mixing of dirts and sand.. but it will (eventually) be dirt.. prolly hard packed.. i dont want to lose the bashing ablility because it does it so well or at least be able to switch between easyly.. thanks for your time guys..
 
-Try the green or red springs (softer)
-Put some shock limiters within the shocks (lower ride height)
-Ditch the stock tires for some Maxx Mulchers (Lose the tire flair and get good traction)
-RPM Offset rims (wider you are = more stable)
-Look into LCG/ext tvps for better handling
-Adjustable shock towers (able to run LST shocks, 1/8 Buggy, etc)
 
Tires are a big thing. Because the tires ur using are so much heavier it will be a little weird to steer or to get straight and slide into turns. For example, bowties wont roll over like the stock ones, plus they have a firm foam. So, not only will you have more traction, but u will be able to slide into turns, have more acceleration(maylose some top speed), ur truck wont flip while going fast into turns because there wont be any roll(extra rubber) on the new tires.
So my suggestion is maybe like 40 series wheels, with a good tire meant for racing that doesn't have much roll, such as the bow ties, or maybe the mulchers, etc....

Then, look into a cam type servo saver: this will help when it comes to turns: quicker response, more precise, a lot stronger feel.

Play with the suspension, see what works best.
 
internal shock limiters made the cheapest and biggest handling improvemnt. All you do is put a peice of fuel line on the shock shaft (inside the shock) so it limits the shock length.

I removed the spacers and used 1/4" limiters. It was great for handling, but dont expect to bash with this. I found the truck bottoms really hard with this set up, but there should not be bottoming type jumps on a race course.

Also Moving the battery to the front shock tower along with my mid tank made the truck feel like a different ride. Having more wieght on the front end allows quicker turning with the gas on. On a side note I run LCG frames and that is an obvious race set up.
 
Not to get off topic, but I never really understood over/under steer.

Anyone care to explain?

I'm sure I have one or the other or both, but since I bash, I don't really care. But considering I veer very far off the path of "stock", I'd like to know if I have improved things, made them worse or didn't make a change at all.
 
Did you do the MP servo saver mod or buy the HPI kit for the upgraded steering setup? Even replacing the bushings with bearing will help.
 
too bad i dont live near you. me and jesse are the only ones in colorado i think.


mark
 
3 speed. lower suspension, tires with low sidewalls to prevent rolling and silicone oil for the diffs all equal power and traction, and always bash ready.
 
understeer when you turn and the truck doesn't... basicaly pushes the front end...
oversteer when you turn and the truck turns aLOT basicaly front grabs and you flip or spin out..
 
Yea, you hear these terms a lot with 1:1 cars. Basically understeer is you don't turn enough and the wheels want to go strait, oversteer you tap the wheel and the tires whip out and you roll over. Its hard to find the best balance...
 
what about revo tires?? they look nice.. and my buddy just put some on his maxx but we havent ran since so i dont know how there gonna do on traction..
 
beason said:
understeer when you turn and the truck doesn't... basicaly pushes the front end...
oversteer when you turn and the truck turns aLOT basicaly front grabs and you flip or spin out..


Ok, thanks.

Then I have understeer... but I think it's somewhat due in part to my servo not being really high in torque.
 
Also the savage servo saver blows, get the HPI Cam-Type servo saver to help your understeer problem.
 
Oh, well then yea your servo may be a tad weak but it shouldn't be that bad.
 
revo tire suck for racing. The HPI dirtbonz wil be your cheapest best bet. ideally some LPR crimefighters on 1/2" offset wheels, limiters in shocks, single shock setup on front end. Shave the C-hubs for more steering.
Green springs with 30 wt oil in rear, black/purple springs in front with 40 wt. oil. one shock per side in front.
Setup your rear toe to 0 degrees, front toe to +2 degrees.
LCG chassis when you have the dough.
 
I did the steering mod (use a dremel to grind the turn stops off to gain more steering) on my savage along with the bearings in my cam servo saver. It made a world of difference.
 
HPI reccomends a minimum of 160 oz/in. for the steering servo in the manual of the Savage X SS. I had 133 and it was ok for bashing but you would definitely want 180-200 for racing. Beason, something I'm not seeing a lot of people reccomend is Low Center of Gravity TVP's. You can get a set for under a 100 bucks, and they make a HUGE difference in handling. All of the weight sits lower in the chassis, and you don't have to slow down nearly as much in the turns.
 
I had considered the lowered CG TVPs, then read that the roto start wouldn't work without modifying something. I don't remember what the modifications were, but if it involves cutting the alloy as opposed to the stock plastic, I don't think I'll want to do it.
 
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