Associated LRP Z.28R Spec 3

[nitrorcmadness]

ok originally i was thinkin about buying the Z.28 spec 2, but i went with the spec 3, which i think it might be to much motor for the truggy not looking to do wheelies so i'm going to throw some wieghts on the front of the truggy some where try to balance it out but the question thats on my mind i have never bought a new motor befor which is fine we live and learn but i can not for the love of me find where i can get the rest of the parts to complete the motor everything so far is iether carb parts or back plates to rods it gos on and on nothing for a clutch bell or clutch. Would anyone happen to know where i can get the rest of what i need to run my truggy

Thanks in advance

 

[2revo1maxx]

What truggy is it?

Look up the clutch bell for whatever truggy it is.
Instead of adding weights you can gear it up or play with the center diff.

 

[nitrorcmadness]

sup 2revo
so it dose not matter what flywheel i put on it just as long its good enough for the truggy

 

[2revo1maxx]

Yeah what truggy is it? If that truggy comes with a big block engine it should be the same shaft as your lrp.

 

[olds97_lss]

If your truggy currently has an engine on it that your replacing and it's a BB engine, then everything should be interchangeable. I'd pick up a shim kit to install the flywheel/bell properly as sometimes the alignment isn't identical from engine to engine.

This is a good shim kit to have on hand: OFNA Shim Kit

Also, I'd pick up a few new plugs for the new engine. I like running McCoy MC-8's in my LRP28S3 engines. Can get these a bit cheaper, same plug but packaged in a pack of 2 by dynamite, DYN2518.

I run 25% nitro byrons fuel with my LRP's as they seem to run best when running on at least 25%. I've never gone higher, but I have gone lower to 20% as that's what I used to run on all my rigs. But they were a bit more finicky on 20%. Now I just run 25% in all my rigs so I don't have to cart around two different fuels. Seems to run well in all my engines (XTM24.7, OS21RG, OS18TM, TRX2.5, LRP28).

 

[nitrorcmadness]

ok so i bought the clutch kit for this truggy its a HSP got it hella cheap here are some pics
http://s1239.photobucket.com/albums...w&current=KGrHqIOKpcE6dLCEEyBOuUf3KhQ60_3.jpg
http://s1239.photobucket.com/albums...&current=KGrHqUOKpoE6W0oDoCnBOuUpETSQ60_3.jpg
http://s1239.photobucket.com/albums...ew&current=KGrHqQOKpcE6dvPB2ufBOuUyKG60_3.jpg
as for the nitro does back yard bashers make 25% nitro i really like the fact that i dont have to use after run using back yard basher
here is the item number for the clutch kit for the HSP ya i do ebay 110627336403 more like it does me

 

[olds97_lss]

I'm not familiar with BYB fuel. You should always use ARO regardless what's on the bottle. If you let it sit for 10+ days, ARO should be used.

Am i religious about it... no, but if I walk by my trucks and I know they have sat for a couple weeks since I last ran and I know I'm not about to take one out, I'll put some ARO in it.

Where are you located? May be better to buy parts you know are good vs flipping a quarter and finding out they aren't.

For $35'ish:
HPI Flywheel/shoes ($16.39): http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGWY3&P=7
OFNA bell ($19.19): http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBL93&P=7
OFNA shim kit ($4.89): http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000426515&I=LXNT03&P=K

Good bearings, really good hardened bell and all the bits you will need to fit it on any engine in almost any vehicle.


EDIT:
Sorry, just reread your note stating that you already bought. Was thinking you were about to buy.

 

[nitrorcmadness]

they say that the back yard basher has ARO in it i ahve been using it for my rally car seems to do just fine but that motor is a pro 21 soo. I live in Seattle by the way and all the parts that you have listed i'v look them up and have them on stand by to order

 

[2revo1maxx]

With all the humidity in Seattle that fuel won't work as ARO by itself. The first thing you should do is unhook the fuel line after a run and pull the engine over until it won't fire anymore....or let it idle out. Do this if you plan on storing it more than a few hours.

All fuels have oils that would be fine for short term storage, but with residual nitromethane and methanol in the engine a little oil residue won't help. Nitromethane and methanol attract moisture. Burning it off reduces the chance siezure and corrosion.

For any kind of storage over a couple days you should use wd-40 or ARO.

 

[srusinek]

I use a quart or marvel mystery oil and I put it in a 250cc fuel bottle. Then when I have to use it I just apply it using the fuel bottle and put some in the carb and glow plug hole. The mystery oil is cheaper by the quart when compared to buying a bottle of aro from the hobby shop.

 

[nitrorcmadness]

ya i dont see me putting anything like that in my motors anytime soon i may be new on the forums but i am not new in the nitro world been doing this sense i was 20 i am 33 now i'v tryed it all been through tons of rc cars matter of fact i do believe i have tryed something like that while back go and the end results were not good hell i still have the motor

 

[olds97_lss]

For me MMO is a bit thick. For as little as we use... just buying a bottle of it at the LHS isn't that big of an issue.

 

[nitrorcmadness]

The back yard basher is pretty good for the 21 motors but never the less i always use AFO. Interesting thing came up yesterday the truggy i bought seems to have a couple of clones i didnt pay no mind to it but hours went past and it hit me so now i am wondering if this thing is a HSP now think i will start a new post and see how many hits i get on the chassis