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AR-15 Info

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scoobydoo2u

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I am looking into getting a AR15, but I'm new to firearms as far as building my own. And I was thinking Alpine and RCaddict had ARs so I thought I would ask here.

I want a ar15, but I want it exactly the way I want it, not a complete prebuilt unit. So If I was to buy a lower receiver, parts kit, flat top upper receiverHere are some upper receiver ass., and grips would I be good to go? If so who makes good uppers/lowers? And one more quick one before I go. Should I buy a 5.56nato(I think its 5.56 nato, but I may be wrong.) Or a .223? I've been told and read that a .223 can be shot in both, but not the other way around. So is 5.56 the way to go? I am still researching the subject, but thanks for your help!

Edit: I can't say what my budget it, because I don't have a set budget. I expect over 800 pretty easy.
 
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You are correct that a .223 can be shot in a 5.56mm and not the reverse. The reason behind that is the 5.56mm NATO has a higher case pressure than the .223 Rem. You can get away with it for awhile but you never know….so for safety sake people try not to do it. Personally I have two Bushmasters. One Plain Jane 20” barrel standard A2 set-up and one shorty A4 flat-top set-up for as a tactical entry weapon. So…what will you be using it for? Distance shooting, varmint, plinking? Each kind of barrel is made for different purposes. Example.. a 24” barrel made for distance shooting is going to have a faster twist to stabilize a heavier bullet that is required for long range. There are also draw backs to this is well. The faster twist has a higher wear rate on the barrel since it is higher stressed. For normal plinking uses I like a chrome lined barrel since it has the longest life and is more corrosion resistant and forgiving to poor cleaning and pitting. Most stainless steel barrels will have the second longest life and are inherently more accurate than the chrome lined when they are well made. Basically the AR-15 is the Chevy 350 of firearms…..EVERYBODY makes parts and hop-ups for it. I have been out of it for almost three years now (not a lot of guns in Japan) but you can make one in a million different combinations…..so what are YOU looking for in a gun? ;-)
 
frickenjoey said:
You are correct that a .223 can be shot in a 5.56mm and not the reverse. The reason behind that is the 5.56mm NATO has a higher case pressure than the .223 Rem. You can get away with it for awhile but you never know….so for safety sake people try not to do it. Personally I have two Bushmasters. One Plain Jane 20” barrel standard A2 set-up and one shorty A4 flat-top set-up for as a tactical entry weapon. So…what will you be using it for? Distance shooting, varmint, plinking? Each kind of barrel is made for different purposes. Example.. a 24” barrel made for distance shooting is going to have a faster twist to stabilize a heavier bullet that is required for long range. There are also draw backs to this is well. The faster twist has a higher wear rate on the barrel since it is higher stressed. For normal plinking uses I like a chrome lined barrel since it has the longest life and is more corrosion resistant and forgiving to poor cleaning and pitting. Most stainless steel barrels will have the second longest life and are inherently more accurate than the chrome lined when they are well made. Basically the AR-15 is the Chevy 350 of firearms…..EVERYBODY makes parts and hop-ups for it. I have been out of it for almost three years now (not a lot of guns in Japan) but you can make one in a million different combinations…..so what are YOU looking for in a gun? ;-)
Click to expand...

I am looking for an Semi-Auto hole puncher! target shooting is about all this will see. I have no interest in hunting, just a day at the range! I have no problem with maintaining my guns and I actually enjoy it, but I definitely understand your point! Thanks for your info! I definitely want a flat tap because I can always get a detachable handle.
 
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Ok for general range shooting and not competition I would still go with the chrome lined barrel. Mine can put 10 in the size of a quarter at 100 yards with the 20" barrel. If you are interested in target shooting I would personally recommend the 20" barrel over the 16". The longer barrel has a couple advantages over the 16". First it is more accurate...second you get a higher muzzle velocity with the longer barrel. This adds to your range and power of the rifle. Keep in mind you can buy upper receivers all day long but the lower receiver is the part that is controlled by Serial number.
I think this one would be my choice. Nice flat-top and bushmaster makes great stuff.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=631384 Only thing I don't like about it is, it's chambered only .223 Rem.
 
I second the chrome lined barrel, and if you have the money I also recomend you get the target barrel. It is a bit heavier and will resist the "barrel whip" you get after you have heated the barrel up a bit from repeated firings. I have a 20" Bushmaster that I built from parts... it is one of my favorite guns to shoot that I own.
 
I love my bushmaster. I have the 16 inche barrel, still accurate to a few inches at 100 yards but much easier to sling around in close quarter contacts in buildings, and to yank in and out of the lock in the car. If i werent LEO, i would get the 20in but eh, its easier this way for me. I would suggest buying a "rtr" bushmaster and begin to add to it as you go. You dont want to just buy a bunch of stuff for it if you dont know exatly how you shoot a firearm like this. I have made very few modifications to mine. Removable upper with carry handle, collapsable fore grip, TLR-1 Tac Light, and a Quad rail in place of the factory heat guard. The two things i would 100% recomend first getting are the quad rail, and front grip. A good sling and scope are always a good idea. I just use a basic Accushot scope, just for quaificaitons, but use iron sights for daily use, I do plan on going to an Aeo-tec holographic site, just as soon as i got $600 to throw down on a scope. HAHA Any specific questions, just ask.
 
alipine i agree with you 100% but i would use a differen't scope, i have an A-COG scope on mine and i love it, i have never had any issues plinking a gopher at 150 yds and thats about all i use mine for, the occasional target range but i just basiclly use it in the field to go varmint hunting, but its cool to tell your friends, "hey i got an AR-15, wanna see". . .but thats just me




Edit: i am using .223, and a 20 inch chrome lined barel
 
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Thanks for all your help! I have a couple more questions.
What is post or pre ban on AR uppers? With a flat top I know that the added sights would be much lower, so is a riser recommended? on the pic of the quad rail alpine posted what are those rail hand guards called? Knowing me that are probably called rail hand guards, but I can't find them.

I am not new to guns at all, but I am new to ar15s. I I've shot one and loved them! I'm sure I'll be asking more questions later thanks!
 
The only difference as far as I know between a post ban and pre ban is that a pre ban has a flash suppressr, and the post ban what they call a muzzle brake. I will double check this.

If I am understanding you correctly what your are refering to are called hand guards or heat sheilds.... If I am understanding you correctly. The sights on a flat top are lower, but I don't think you would need to raise them any.
 
godale03 said:
The only difference as far as I know between a post ban and pre ban is that a pre ban has a flash suppressr, and the post ban what they call a muzzle brake. I will double check this.

If I am understanding you correctly what your are refering to are called hand guards or heat sheilds.... If I am understanding you correctly. The sights on a flat top are lower, but I don't think you would need to raise them any.
Click to expand...

Crap, your right. I was looking at the wrong thing with that hand guard stuff!
So, I am looking at bushmaster Ar15s and even the flattop ones have the front sight. My question now is if I mount some type of sight like a ACOG for example, is that front sight going to be in the way? I'm sure I am soung very new right now, but I have never built a gun, or shot a gun with anything other then iron sights or a scope. I appreciate the help!
 
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Just as a counterpoint. I was an armorer in the army and worked a lot with the M16A1 and M16A2. Both have the chrome barrel in the mil spec version. The only real difference is the barrel of the A2 is heavier and the flash suppressor has no holes on the bottom to prevent muzzle rise. I, too, would recommend the longer chromed barrel. They're longer lived, more accurate and easier to clean imo.
 
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hamz9561 said:
Just as a counterpoint. I was an armorer in the army and worked a lot with the M16A1 and M16A2. Both have the chrome barrel in the mil spec version. The only real difference is the barrel of the A2 is heavier and the flash suppressor has no holes on the bottom to prevent muzzle rise. I, too, would recommend the longer chromed barrel. They're longer lived, more accurate and easier to clean imo.
Click to expand...
Alright, sounds good! I think I will end up with the longer chrome lined barrel.
 
ar15

well well you cats sure took me back with that conversation. back in the stone ages i spit a lot of lead at the commies. i dont keep any weapons, but iam glad you cats do.
 

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