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anyone try steel sper gear

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viperdog

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I have a new picco 26 and am haveing trouble with the stock spur gear stripping. I was thinking about getting a steel spur gear, the only problem is I dont really want to spend the $50.00 bucks when the stock is only $4.00. But I will get the steel one if it is worth it.
 
I'm still running the plastic in my savage so I dont have any experience with it but I can give you an example with my buggy. I was killing the plastic spur about every other week. Yes its only $3-$4 but it was a hassle to have to keep tearing it apart to replace it and set the mesh again. I upgraded to a steel spur 6 months ago and have had NO problems with it since.
 
Is the steel spur gear the same width as the stock plastic one? I would like to find a spur gear that is slightly narrower so I will have more space between the spur and clutch bell. Due to how my clutch bell/flywheel is set up it is very close to the spur gear.
 
Originally posted by viperdog
I have a new picco 26 and am haveing trouble with the stock spur gear stripping. I was thinking about getting a steel spur gear, the only problem is I dont really want to spend the $50.00 bucks when the stock is only $4.00. But I will get the steel one if it is worth it.
Click to expand...
Maybe I'm not the person too talk about this but I have had a Robinson Racing Hardened steel spur gear on my rigg and had terrible results. First I've never had a problem with my stock plastic one. My Robinson stripped every clutch bell I puto on in less than three tanks of fuel. The spur never got a sctratch. (I still have the mutha). I tired adjusting looser, tighter, everything in between with same results, clutch bell metal a-flyin.

I run in very grainy, sandy conditions and I thin the Hardended gear creates a grinding, machining effect on the poor little clutch-bell. I went back to the plastic ones, and see little or no wear on both spur and clutch-bell.

My condition are probebly best for the Delrin composite spur, as they are very resilient.

My 2 cents
 
I used them on my t maxxes without problems. Usually the teeth on the plastic spurs would brake off.
 
I ran the RRP steel spur on my Savage for a while. The bell I was using lasted pretty good, but eventually it gave out. The important thing to remember when running a steel spur is the mesh. If you spend some time and carefully set the mesh (distance and alignment), then the spur won't wear the bell as much.

I went back to plastic for one reason, I wanted to run a 49 spur and didn't want to invest another $50 for a new spur, so I went the $4 route and am happy.

The one thing that is noticable when running a steel spur is that you can hear a metallic sounding gear noise when running. Not so with plastic. it kind of got on my nerves.
 
Originally posted by Error401

I went back to plastic for one reason, I wanted to run a 49 spur and didn't want to invest another $50 for a new spur, so I went the $4 route and am happy.

The one thing that is noticable when running a steel spur is that you can hear a metallic sounding gear noise when running. Not so with plastic. it kind of got on my nerves.
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I did $Pay close attention to gear mesh, and that why I went thru so many clutch-bells, before I went $3.80 for the "Good one". I really believe, that what you run in makesd a diff in whether the Hard-Steel gears work best or whetehr the resilient ones work best.

Damn, Now I'm up to $00.04 cents. SOMBODY's GOTTA PAY!

or who do I owe, for this "some of it's based on fact!"

Ciao MA

Originally posted by SavageHooligan


I did $Pay close attention to gear mesh, and that why I went thru so many clutch-bells, before I went $3.80 for the "Good one". I really believe, that what you run in makesd a diff in whether the Hard-Steel gears work best or whetehr the resilient ones work best.

Damn, Now I'm up to $00.04 cents. SOMBODY's GOTTA PAY!

or who do I owe, for this "some of it's based on fact!"

Ciao MA
Click to expand...

Where you run! NO SPELL CHECK!! I really beilieve WHERE YOU RUN.

It may be true! Hasta!
 
Were you using HPI clutch bells? They're not hardened like bells for buggies.

And what's up with that last part in your last post?
 
If you continue to burn through any gear, it is time to stop spending the money and whining about the nasty gears getting destroyed. IT IS TIME to start trying to solve the problem. The number one killer of clutch bells and spur gears alike is gear mesh. You may be able to perfect the art of gear mesh, but your running conditions and a number of other variables that many do not think about can easily undo your perfect setting.

I ran my T-Maxx with a hardened clutch bell and steel spur gear in just about every terrain condition known, and have never had any problems with either gear. This is over nearly two years of hard running.

So, is it a good idea to run one or the other? I say it is up to you and your wallet. Do I have any heartache backing one or the other product? Not at all. I run both. My buggy and T-maxx run steel gears, my Savage runs a plastic (not the delrin, but the stock plastic) spur gear and stock clutch bell. So far I have fragged a couple of spur gears. One was due to gear mesh being chucked out the window on a particularly ugly landing. The other was due to a extreme moisture that allowed the gear to melt out the middle (no damage to the teeth).

When I feel the need to go steel it will be RRP all the way with hardened steel clutch bell. I will also pay a bit of serious attention to the alignment and anything necessary to maintain that alignment and proper mesh.
 
The conditions that I run in is a track with some big jumps and some loose dirt. I wasn't running hard at all that day, just the occasional blip. I am still in the breakin period of that picco. I thought I had the mesh correct on two gears that day, maby I didn't. I thought that the steel would be stronger.
 
Did your bell look something like this?

chewed18tcb.jpg


This was an HPI 18t CB that was run on a picco 26 in a buggy setup. The mesh was set correctly, and this if after 3 tanks of running. The HPI clutch bells are not hardened enough to run againt a hardened spur.
 
no I didn't strip the clutch bell just the spur gear. The plastic one and the stock clutch bell from hpi>
 
Originally posted by Error401
Were you using HPI clutch bells? They're not hardened like bells for buggies.

And what's up with that last part in your last post?
Click to expand...

Your exactly right, I was running HPI clutchbells with my Robinson gear. I am now running the opposite. The stock plastic spur with a Robinson Clutch bell and have not had a problem in alot of run time. ThanX I did not know the clutch-bells from HPI are not hardened.

As far as the last part of my post, I tried to spell check after I posted and just made a mess!
 
Originally posted by Error401
Did your bell look something like this?

chewed18tcb.jpg


This was an HPI 18t CB that was run on a picco 26 in a buggy setup. The mesh was set correctly, and this if after 3 tanks of running. The HPI clutch bells are not hardened enough to run againt a hardened spur.
Click to expand...

when my gear mesh got screwed up on my t-maxx with a RRp steel spur gear, my clutch bell looked a hole lot worse then that, there was no teeth. i think i still got it around here..

later
 
Tank #4 probably would have finished it off for sure. The HPI bells are hardened, to a certain extent, but I think they're hardened just enough to prevent them wearing against the stock plastic gear and not a hardened steel spur. Buggy bells are hardened much more than the HPI bells and thus last longer, but also cost more.
 
I think I am going to get the robinson raceing spur gear today. I found it at the lch for 40.00. As much as I dont want to buy it from them, I guess I will. I gotta run on sunday. Off to the race I go.:puke:
 
Ok i am haveing the same problem as everyone else here. I am running a stock 18 tooth cb, with a stock plastic 49 tooth SG on a Wasp. I wasent having any problems through break in but now that the power is starting to come i have gone through 2 spurs. The most recient one lasted only a matter of minutes. I have never had a problem with my spurs before, and i have been quite proud of my gear meshing abilities.

I though it had more to do with the fact that i jumped to a more powerful engine and a set of big joes (more traction). I also tighten down my spur pretty tight to take advantage of the power of the wasp. The last spur i stripped was on short grass with no jumps in like half a tank. WTF is going on here?
 
IMO the oversized wheels/tires put a terrible strain on the drivetrain in general, and the plastic spurs in particular. I run an Ofna outlaw 26 (same as the Wasp) and tighten the slipper all the way down, then I back it off about 1/8th of a turn. I also removed a .001 head shim and my 26 has stupid power. So far I haven't cooked a spur, but I run Proline Maxx Mulchers and Mashers on T-Maxx and HB rims.

My suggestion would be to try regular sized rims/tires and see how long the spur lasts. The sad fact is that the weakest link will break first. The Savage tranny and final drives are pretty rugged and the spur/bell seems to be the weakest link in the chain. Adding more power (like the Wasp or the Ofna Outlaw) will only amplify the weaknesses.
 

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