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H

hugo

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What throttle/brake servo would you recommend for the Savage LE or do you think the stock one is good? Also, any rec. for a charger? I know nothing about them.:loser:
I tried a few searches and it was taking forever and I was finding nothing out.:loser:
 
For throttle/brake, most will recommend a fast servo with fair torque. I'm currently using an older Hitec 605MG which is the same as the 625MG. It gives around 95 oz/in of torque at 6.0v which will really clamp your brakes, but has a 0.15s transit time which makes it quite fast.
 
I like higher torque than that. It's a MT, so when you use the brakes, it will be for an extended amount of time and hard. Faster servo's probably give you better throttle/brake response, but I can't afford fast AND torquey... I use the futaba S3305. Medium-high torque, metal gear. 124oz, .20 transit.

I think I'm using the same thing on my revo and I like it there as well.

I run a hitec 645MG for T/B on my buggy. What can I say? I like brakes!
 
I prefer the 645 as well, and it is cheap if you can find it on sale. I bought two last year, bradn new, from Hobby People at their 4th of July sale for 31.00 USD apiece.
 
most people just swap out their steering servo to the T/B when they upgrade that. that seems to be a decent set up fior bashers on a tight budget. personally i went with a JR z650mg on my steering, and the hitec 645 for T/B.
 
The two I like on the Savage are hitec hs-5625mg on throttle/brake and hs-5645mg for steering. Plenty of juice for both and the TB servo is pretty fast.
 
i run dual 645's in my savy. but thats just because thats what i had. a 645 and a hump pack will make the sav do endo's with stock single disk brakes.
 
Hey Beason

I replaced the stock steering servo with a JR 650 metal servo and I put a hump pack in. The brakes are dual disk brakes. Do you think it would make a big difference to buy a new t/b servo? I don't want to be doing constant wheelies either!!LOL.
Any suggestion regarding a charger??
 
i bought a high torque metal geared servo off ebay not too long ago and it so far is awsume ,155oz torque and .02 at 6v so its rather quick too ,i got it for 17 shipped brand new from world_hobby on ebay
andy just got 1 last night also
1 more thingthey are digital too so if you have a syth receiver it should work also,i may be wrong on that but not sure i do know they are a good buy thoe
they are called tower pro 995mg
 
hugo said:
I replaced the stock steering servo with a JR 650 metal servo and I put a hump pack in. The brakes are dual disk brakes. Do you think it would make a big difference to buy a new t/b servo? I don't want to be doing constant wheelies either!!LOL.
Any suggestion regarding a charger??
Click to expand...

Hugo, just to be clear, are you thinking a different servo would accidently make you do wheelies? I just got a little lost with that comment and would hope we could clear it up. A really strong servo might make you do what is called "stoppies", but except to impress friends and newbies, that has no place in a clinch bashing situation or racing. The purpose of a strong servo for throttle and braking is to provide absolute control over those functions. Same for steering, although speed can be a factor, too.
 
yea the endos were cool like ONCE, then i started eating front diffs. but on like dirt and even concrete i can lock up all 4 tires. I've never had the dual disk brakes so i can't comment on that. but stronger is usualy better. and on the charger, we need to know what your gonna be doing with this charger so we can give you better information.
 
I don't even know what I was talking about!!

Revo, I have no clue as to what I was talking about. I think I was assuming since the servo is for throttle/brake, the throttle part would cause wheelies. I just embarassed myself. Won't be the last time either.lol. Thanks for being so kind in your wording.You probably felt like saying"what the f$#@ is she talking about?? Thanks for being so sweet about it.:loser:
 
Thanks, but I was just worried maybe you were getting bad info from your LHS, or on the far side from lurking another forum. In the case of of the LHS it might be just to scam a sale of a servo you might not need or a more powerful (read, expensive) servo. 645 MG should be all you need in 99% of all MT non-race applications. No war intended here over other makes, models or specs.
 
olds97 lss i agree with you guys totally on the 645 great servo for the money. If your have trouble burning up servo's in your throttle and brake I don't think its because the servo is not up to the task but that you should adjust your end point adjustment sounds more like your straining them by putting in to much travel in just a thought might save you some money and maybe even a race some day stinks when a servo quits in a race
 
I don't think it's EPA related... I think I just expect more out of servo's than some people. I adjust the EPA so it can apply brakes until the servo stops, then I back it off about 5%. So, the servo is almost max'd out in power/strain, but not quite at full brakes.
 
k it was just a thought. I use a hitec 325 hb in my throttle and brakes and have no probs thats why i thought maybe end point was set to high
 
This is one of the reasons I like to use the 645 in MT's. Cheap, powerful, decent speed, and on steering I set endpoints as accurate as I cna, and for throttle too, but I let it go all the way with brake. If I burn one up, and I only have once, no biggee at 35.00 apiece. Buy them on sale every chance I get. I keep a spare on hand at all times, so it is a simple swap if I need to do it on the run.
 
so i take it you guys don't dial in the amount of brake you need for a giving track you just maxx it out? I set my brakes depending on surface just to the point of the wheels locking sometimes a little less like on our grass tracks i don't want to lock them up as i would do stoppies lol so i back it off a little bit then i don't have to worry about getting excited and over applying the brakes lol you know how it is when your in the heat of things lol
 

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