Any advice for a stripped hsn/ fuel line connection

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Danglebeef

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It seems that the hsn and the aluminum hex stud screw won't get a bite on stripped threads on my trx2.5, causing fuel leakage around the fuel inlet. Kinda stuck , can't get to tha hobby shop on the other side of town in a timely fashion. Any help would b pimp!
 
If the tape doesn't work, you can try a decent epoxy that is chemical resistent. You will need to clean the hole in the carb really well with DA and a q-tip to get all oil/fuel residue out of it. Do the same to the HSN threads. Cover the threads with epoxy, put it in the carb where you need it (holding it in with a clamp for pressure would be best) and let it fully cure.

I've used JB-weld to hold a carb onto an engine before, but both the carb and crank case were aluminum. It held up pretty well.

The better choice would be a new carb body:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDGA0&P=ML
 
Thanks dude, I'm tryin some blue thread locker seems to b tight but not sure bout fuel leakaGe. One more quick question tho, what way does the one way bearing go? Words facing in or out on A trx 2.5? Just got off work n wanna test er out. Thanks again

I already tried Teflon tape but no bite
 
Thread lock doesn't work on plastic unless it's plastic specific. You could also carefully build up some material on the threads using ca glue. Apply a few light coats with a tooth pick. Then the threads will have something to bite. Then seal with rtv. It would be all for nothing if you dropped any in the hole, so be careful.
 
what way does the one way bearing go? Words facing in or out on A trx 2.5? Just got off work n wanna test er out. Thanks again

It should lock on the shaft when you spin the OWB clockwise.

The thread lock probably won't hold up well. CA dissolves when around nitro fuel, so it won't hold well either.
 
It should lock on the shaft when you spin the O


Any suggestions on patching A hole in the fuel tank. It's been patched w jb weld that seems to b working pretty well. Also the fuel lines they sold me keep blowin off the connections ?
 
O yeah I finally got it to idle wout goin outta control birdies wen I give it any throttle
 
I use really small zipties to hold the line onto the connectors.

You can also use little fuel line collars to double up the fuel line. Just cut a piece of fuel line so it's 3mm long or so, then gently run a pair of small needle nose through the little piece so you can open the jaws of the pliers to stretch it. Then slip the tip of the fuel line through the center. This helps it hold better on the connectors.

You can see what I'm talking about here, easier to see since I used green line to create the collars:
2008-1030-SavageFuelLineConnections.jpg


Fuel tanks are tough to patch as well. They use a slippery type plastic that not much will stick too, even when sanded. Your best bet is to get a new one on order.
 
I'm with Olds, it's best to get a new tank.
I patched a hole in the side of a Savage tank once using some sheet brass and E6000 glue that I had on hand - but that was just until I could get a new tank.
 
Appreciate it y'all! I watched squirrels vid on sealing butdo u silicon the ez start housing or is that not necssary? Don't wanna risk burnin up da motor. I'm on a btroke mans budget so I'm trin to get my maxx runnin in house. Lol thanks guys
 
I'll try doublin up tha fuel one in da mornin. One more thing do u silicon both sides of the backplate or just the crankcase side, I finally got it to fun somewhat, it idels but dies when I give it any throttle ? ThAt means i'm too lean on hsn right?
 
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