Another Rc10 gt wheel question??

[JESSE G]

I'm looking for some stock wheels for my Rc10 gt. I was wondering will these work? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44028&item=5984765697&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW It says they are for a Gt or T3/T4 and I have no clue what the T3/T4 are those electric? Also what part of the axle do I measure to find out if it had 3/16 axles or 1/4? I'm trying to get my truck ready so I can try my luck out and racing it at the lhs and want to make sure I'm getting what I need sorry about all the similar questions about wheels. Just covering all aspects of what will work for me.

 

[.21Rc10GT]

Yep, those will work. If your axles happen to be 1/4", you can drill them to 1/4"... I think you have the 3/16 axles though. The only thing i dont like about the dish rims is getting to the nut. Its really annoying to tighten the rear wheel nut because the dish makes it so the wrench wont go on when it cranks down... Will they work, yes sir!!! Would i reccomend them, not really, but they work!!! :hammer:

 

[JESSE G]

Thanks,
I have the dish wheels now and I have a socket that fits them perfect so thats not to big of and issue, I got the wheels and tires from BADNBADN and the Rusty wheels work with my Adapters so I might just get a matching set for the front, They are the Rpm blue claws I dont care for them much since the chrome always chips off of them. I'm not sure what I'm going to do actually lol

 

[Pinblaster]

:whack: I guess you didn't read the bold print from the add it says --->
"GT/T3/T4!!!!
These are brand new never run rear wheels out of the factory Associated kits."

 

[JESSE G]

I diddnt know if the T3/T4 wheels where different? Since I dont know what either of those are, I'm a newbie to associated products and diddnt want to possibly buy something I can't use lol. I Have to be carefull how I spend my money thats why I asked thanks for setting me straight lol.

 

[HeartBreak]

Having an associated GT and T3, I can personally verify that they use the same rims. But, and here's the but... If your rear axle has a taper to it where the pin goes through, then you may have to consider changing the rear hub carriers/axles/bearings.

But, if it's just a 'straight' axle with no 'bulge' around the pin, then T3 tires/rims will work with zero mods.

 

[Pinblaster]

Most GT's come with 3/16" axles as did the T2 electric trucks. A lot of the T3 Electric kits came with 1/4" axles but the RTR's came with 3/16". They all use the same carrier bearing OD 3/8" but the ID is different. One being 3/16" the other being 1/4" ID. The axle shafts are different designs. The 1/4" axles taper down after the retaining pin to the tip of the threaded shaft. The thead part of the shaft is actually smaller than 3/16". The wheels for 1/4" axles have a counter sunk area on the back side of the hole to acomidate for the 1/4 part of the axle and the rest of the hole is smaller. The 3/16 axles don't have a taper and the wheels are drilled straight through at 3/16".

If you have 3/16 axles either wheel will work but you will have to drill the 1/4"wheels to 3/16". If you have 1/4 axles the 3/16 wheels wont work, they will wobble. But you can get bearings and axles to convert it to 3/16" and you can use any wheels with 3/16 axles, ie; losi, duratrax, AE. etc.

If I get a chance I will try to draw a cut-a-way view w/ dimensionsof the axles and wheels if anyone still doesn't understand what I have discribed above.

 

[.21Rc10GT]

sorry, but 3/16 is smaller than 1/4..

 

[retarded pilot]

sorry, but 3/16 is smaller than 1/4..

LOL i guess pinblaster didnt read the bold print in his 3rd grade math book

 

[.21Rc10GT]

LOL i guess pinblaster didnt read the bold print in his 3rd grade math book

I wondered that myself...

 

[Pinblaster]

I know 3/16 is smaller than 1/4 but that has nothing to do with what I describbed above. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAV75&P=0
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAW08&P=0
Look at the 2 axles from the links above and notice where the bearing retaining/drive pin is located and notice the length of the thread part of the shaft. On the 1/4" axles the thread part is longer but smaller than 3/16". If you try to put a wheel for 1/4" axles on a 3/16 axle, it will only go on as far as the thread is cut. Both axles are the same over all length and the pin hole is at the half way point on both axles. If you try to install a 3/16 wheel on a 1/4 axle, it will go on until it gets to the shoulder and the drive pin will not engage the wheel because the wheel doesn't have the hole counter sunk to slide over the 1/4" part of the axle.

 

[Pinblaster]

sorry, but 3/16 is smaller than 1/4..

OK, Maybe this will help you guys understand why I keep saying the 1/4" wheels have smaller holes than the 3/16 wheels do.

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8510&cat=514&page=1

:argue:

 

[retarded pilot]

i dont have this truck so ill give you benefit of the doubt that your info is correct

but how do you drill something to a smaller size?

you will have to drill the 1/4"wheels to 3/16".

 

[.21Rc10GT]

I fully understand what you guys mean... I started out with the older version, which had the tapered axles... I hated the thinner bearings.. They kept blowing out... Switched to the 3/16 style, and no probs, till i got the big block... Then i got the RPM ones with the over sized bearings... No probs yet...

 

[Pinblaster]

i dont have this truck so ill give you benefit of the doubt that your info is correct

but how do you drill something to a smaller size?

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8510&cat=514&page=1 Look at the picture of the 1/4" wheel "rear view" of the hole. The hole going all the way thru the wheel is 5/32" and has to be drilled to 3/16". 5/32 is smaller than 3/16 so to get the 1/4 wheels with a 5/32 hole to fit over the 3/16 axle you have to drill it out. I have both wheel and axle sizes and know what I am talking about.