Another day, another bearing keep going through bearings

[DavidB1126]

So this is the 2nd time i blew a bearing this week. It is the bearing that goes into the rear hub. The first time was last night then the second time was this morning. Could it be the bearings I'm using? Here are the bearings that I am using: Winter Evening - for Traxxas Slash, Stampede, Rustler 2WD 1/10 Bearings Kit (19 Pcs) For the rear hubs I'm using RPM. Also should note I blew the same bearing on the same side. Or it could be the gearing? For the spur I'm using the stock 86t. For the pinion I'm using the optional high speed gearing which is a 23t. What I'm going to try is I'm going to gear down to the stock gearing.(16t pinion) For driveshafts I'm using the MIP X-Duty driveshafts. Everything else in the trans/diff is all stock.

 

[DavidB1126]

Issue resolved.

 

[Donnie533]

When you replace the bearings, are you greasing them?
Most new bearing only have a light coating of oil as a rust inhibitor - this is not sufficient for lubrication.

You can use a good quality automotive grease - I use marine waterproof grease.
Do NOT use WD-40 - it is not a lubricant.

- Use a #11 xacto blade to carefully pry off the seals.
- Push in enough grease to fill about half the space (do both sides).
- push the seals back on and roll the bearing around a bit to work the grease in.

 

[tntpoof]

most important how many cells?.. are those quality bearing id say no.

 

[Donnie533]

^^^ agree - those bearing in the bag sure look like they are USED!
the rubber shields are all different colours and look dirty.

 

[Mrgoodwrench35]

Your supposed to grease new bearings?

 

[olds97_lss]

Add more shims to the crush spacer between the bearings to remove side load. Unless you do that, it will continue to chew through bearings right and left.

The MIP x-duty's didn't fit my stampede 4x4 rear carriers (or any aftermarket or traxxas branded carriers) very well with any of the including shimming they came with. I had to buy/make more shims to get it so it wouldn't put side load on the bearings when I tightened the wheel nut down. Even with the tiny allen in the hex tightened down, when I put the wheel on, it would slide that hex in and bind the bearings up. You also cannot use teflon shims, they have to be steel/stainless steel or the bearing will cut right through/deform them when you tighten the wheel nut down.

I think I ended up using destroyed bearings inner races and ground them down to use as shims... I also bought some good quality metal shims to use. Cheap ones tend to have poor tolerances, so they fit too loose and get stretched/pushed out of the way like the teflon ones.

Even after that, I had a hard time keeping the 5x11x4 bearings alive on the rear of my stampede. Probably due to the larger wheels/tires I run on it. I had some low profile 3.8's that were super wide offset so they didn't rub stuff. I'd have to replace those rear bearings every few bash sessions. I found that the x-01 rear carries use 12mm od bearings, so I got those and found some 5x12x4 bearings to use. That helped a lot with the life of the bearings.

I tried the RPM carriers early on, but they didn't hold up any better than the stock ones, so I ended up with hot racing alloy ones until I found the x-01 carriers having larger bearings.

 

[Rcflyer616]

It could also be an out of balance wheel and tire