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Aluminum slider CVD's (dual U-joints)

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habitforming

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hi all

just joined the forum - recently got a T-maxx and am looking to increase durability/service intervals.


First hop up question: does anyone have any experience with the aluminum slider CVD's that have dual U-joints? So far the only place I've found them is on ebay, sold by "goodsgood". At $100 for the full set (or $150 including center cvd's) they're a bit pricey. But I figure once the dogbones and/or drive cups have to be replaced once all the way around, the cost and time involved in that makes the additional up front cost on these CVD's worth it.

My biggest concern though is durability - will the slider portion begin to wear and get sloppy?
And is the alloy a good quality that won't twist or snap under typical bashing abuse?

Any help you all can provide is greatly appreciated!

link: slider cvd's
 
They look a lot like the shafts from a TXT. From my experience with metal shafts the the ears that hold the joint ball will be the weak point. Changing shafts is a quick and easy task so the real question is what would last longer, $100.00 worth of 3.3 shafts are these?

If you do buy these be sure to let us know how they work out.
 
If they are anything like GPM's (which the knuckle looks very much the same), then are junk. The drive cups themselves made it through 3 tanks, then the little ears on the dog bones were cut off by the drive cups. I was left with 4 busted axles within 3 tanks of running in a grass park.

These are what I was talking about: http://www.rcxshop.com/product_info.php?cPath=4_5&products_id=423
 
olds97_lss said:
If they are anything like GPM's (which the knuckle looks very much the same), then are junk. The drive cups themselves made it through 3 tanks, then the little ears on the dog bones were cut off by the drive cups. I was left with 4 busted axles within 3 tanks of running in a grass park.

These are what I was talking about: http://www.rcxshop.com/product_info.php?cPath=4_5&products_id=423
Click to expand...


Thanks for the heads up. GPM stuff seems equally poor for all different R/C out there. I see bad parts they make from the xmod all the way to the T-maxx... What a shame.

Anyway, I don't think these are made by GPM. I can't find anything about such a product on their website, plus the ears at the U-joint are tapered, where the GPM ones in that link you posted, are parallel to each other. I sure hope they aren't GPM or this will be a huge waste of money.

Will definitely leave detailed review if I drop the $$$. For now I've sent a few questions to the seller, hopefully he has some good answers (what mat'l, who makes them, independent reviews available)
 
Complete trash, I had the older U-joints on my Savage a year ago and they wore out after 1/2 gallon.
 
For that much money, find a set of MIP cvds. They are proven to be fairly strong anyway.
 
bentover said:
Complete trash, I had the older U-joints on my Savage a year ago and they wore out after 1/2 gallon.
Click to expand...

That's a shame, these looked like a really good idea. They were sold by the same guy? Ridiculous they would charge $150 for something that's so weak.


My concern with the MIP (or any of that type CVD for that matter), is that the dog bones and cups on the diff side wear out fairly quickly. And those seem like a bit of a pain to change when the time comes. At least that's been my experience on my mini-inferno & mini-LST. Hopefully on these larger scales it holds up better.

So, between RD Logics and MIP, the MIP is generally considered better? I'd like to get the dust boots, which MIP doesn't include in theirs. Are people generally just using heat shrink to accomplish that, or running them open?
 
I have been running Dynamite CVDs on my maxx for years with no problems at all. BUT, they did take a bit of grinding on the back of the cup to keep them from binding on the diff. Once I did that though they have performed flawlessly for several years now. ImBroken used them on his bb maxx for a few years too until he smashed his maxx in to a railroad tie a wot ripping the front end apart, and only bent the one cvd. Replacing the cups is quite easy though on a maxx should you wear them out.
 
I have RD Logics center cvd's on my Maxx and so far they are fine. I only have one problem, the rear dust boot is torn and I'm not sure where to find replacements.
 

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