Almost new

[conquesttsi87]

Just joined the forum, got back into RC after about 25 years. Had a 3.5 sprint nitro boat back in the day, actually still have it but the skeg is broke off the outboard. Just purchased a 2.5 Tmaxx classic about a month ago and I'm looking for tmaxx hacks, tips, tricks, etc. Still learning to drive yet so making upgrades as I replace items . Just backyard bashing and having fun running on grass, some dirt in the woods and high speed runs down our road.

Items I upgraded so far.
Big bore shocks
6V hump pack
throttle/break servo mount (aluminum)
Items I'm looking to upgrade (would like advice what works best for my conditions)
Tires
chassis strengthening, front, rear, center skid plates, (a lot of flex in these trucks)
spring options
Brake upgrade (anyone have luck with the steel vented disk and carbon fiber pads)
Spur gear (mines looking kind of tough already) Steel, OEM, or Kimbrough?
Current tank options (Broke one already, searched on here and most of the options aren't available anymore)

Thanks in advance!

 

[DXtreme1]

In all honesty keep on driving and enjoy It. When parts break that's when I would upgrade it but if you want to minimize down time I would invest in the following replacement plus upgrade parts. RPM bulkheads stronger than stock and lighter than the aluminum counterparts. RPM suspension arms. RPM shock towers. Extra Spurs, For the brakes I suggest changing the spring on you linkage first with fuel tubing to give it a firmer brake feel and force. You may not need to upgrade the brakes with this almost free mod. RPMshock towers. Change your AA receiver battery and get a proper rechargeable hump pack. Mine is relocated in the front shock towers. It helps me level out when I do jumps. I would suggest getting rid of your reverse and do a forward only conversion. There are tons of upgrades to choose from and it's easy to go overboard. A lot of people do aluminum everything while I'm on the opposite spectrum. I am choosy with what aluminum parts I install because I don't want the added weight. Eventually it would be ideal if you ended up upgrading to 3.3 spec. But I would suggest when it permits to do so sell the 2.5 when you find a good gently used 3.3. It will cost less rather than upgrading your 2.4 to 3.3 specs. Trust me since I've done the conversion already and after tallying up my parts list it pretty much amounted to almost a brand new 3.3. Here's a pic of the conversion build.

']

[/URL]

 

[PatL]

Just joined the forum, got back into RC after about 25 years. Had a 3.5 sprint nitro boat back in the day, actually still have it but the skeg is broke off the outboard. Just purchased a 2.5 Tmaxx classic about a month ago and I'm looking for tmaxx hacks, tips, tricks, etc. Still learning to drive yet so making upgrades as I replace items . Just backyard bashing and having fun running on grass, some dirt in the woods and high speed runs down our road.

Items I upgraded so far.
Big bore shocks
6V hump pack
throttle/break servo mount (aluminum)
Items I'm looking to upgrade (would like advice what works best for my conditions)
Tires
chassis strengthening, front, rear, center skid plates, (a lot of flex in these trucks)
spring options
Brake upgrade (anyone have luck with the steel vented disk and carbon fiber pads)
Spur gear (mines looking kind of tough already) Steel, OEM, or Kimbrough?
Current tank options (Broke one already, searched on here and most of the options aren't available anymore)

Thanks in advance!

Hi, i just got back into this too. Have a old 3.3 tmaxx with a big block on it now. I have no problems with the stock brake setup, but i can recommend Robinson racing steel spur gear. Pretty sure they still make it. Was last spur gear i bought, holds up to my lrp 30 spec 4 without a prob.

 

[PatL]

Hehe. Mine is 95% alum, it was very slow!!! Now with the spec 4 on it, WOW!!! Only 4 tanks through the engine, & its hard to keep the front tires on the ground at 1/4 throttle.!.!. I'm actually afraid of what its going to do when its broken in. I do plan on replacing my trans gears with steel (1 of the very few things i havnt upgraded). But i do like reverse, I'm a basher, if you couldnt tell by me making it a tank. Do u know if i could just put my reverse gear in with the forward only steel gears? I do have a new hump pack for a batt, i do need a good glow warmer, got tired of using C batts. Thats why i have ez start glow warmer on it, with roto-start. Lol. I do have tubing instead of spring for brake, thats a must!! Good advice there! Still stock shock towers, never broke em. & since it weighs about 20lbs now, i added 2 extra shocks to the back. Was very helpful!! I do also plan on getting some dollar hobbies wheels & tires for it, for a 1/7 scale collosus (sp) 7.5" wheels with 23mm hex hubs. Have the hubs for the current prolines i have now.. I know some people say its going to be alot more stress on everything because of the bigger tires, the weight has alot to do with that also. Those that say they r too heavy, dont realize that the 36 screws for each proline tire weigh alot!! My lil prolines weigh more than the 7.5" wheels. So i think it will lessen the current strain i have, plus i will get alot more of a top speed, & clearance... If i were starting new with a tmaxx, i would definitely take your advice on the upgrades you reccommended, but i pulled mine outta storage already maxxed out & a blown 3.3.... & let me tell you, this 4.12-4.15 rated H.P. on the lrp 30, compared to the .9 H.P. of the 3.3..... Its comparing apples to broken eggs.... Just amazing

Another thing about that Robinson racing steel spur gear. I went through two 3.3 engines, & now the lrp30 spec4 has been beating on it 10 years later, with the slipper clutch tight!! I dont know if there is another manufacturer out there than can take the abuse i give... Plus a giant thing about that, its 10 years old!!! & taking more of a beating than ever.. Not many all alum T-maxx's out there that can wheelie during engine break in.

 

[conquesttsi87]

That's the plan, upgrade as I go. I too don't want to go all aluminum, just a few key places. Are you running the stock 2.5 brake disk and pads, just with the fuel tubing for more force or did you upgrade to the 3.3 disk and pads?

 

[PatL]

That's the plan, upgrade as I go. I too don't want to go all aluminum, just a few key places. Are you running the stock 2.5 brake disk and pads, just with the fuel tubing for more force or did you upgrade to the 3.3 disk and pads?

3.3 brake set up. Was a 3.3 when i bought it new

3.3 brake set up. Was a 3.3 when i bought it new

I will say this, if u get alum bulkheads, DONT get alum A-arms too. Would rather replace a-arms instead of bulkheads & a-arms.. Even with the rpm a arms, i bent my alum bulkheads some, & parts of my alum steering.

 

[Certified Mike]

Aluminum tends to share the impact to the parts it is conected to. Unless it bends, it will usually take out whatever plastic it is attached to. Your decision to go with a few key parts is agreed with 100% here. There has been an issue with the tmaxx fuel tanks. They cause a engine kill issue at 1/2 full. There is a thread here that shows a couple different mods/fixes for that here. Upgrading as you break is Def the way to go IMO as well.

 

[conquesttsi87]

Aluminum tends to share the impact to the parts it is conected to. Unless it bends, it will usually take out whatever plastic it is attached to. Your decision to go with a few key parts is agreed with 100% here. There has been an issue with the tmaxx fuel tanks. They cause a engine kill issue at 1/2 full. There is a thread here that shows a couple different mods/fixes for that here. Upgrading as you break is Def the way to go IMO as well.

I've been searching this site for threads about the tank and the threads I'm finding have tanks listed that aren't available anymore! Maybe I'm not searching with the correct terminology. When I replaced my tank (OEM) I cut the mounting posts down a little and added 3mm orings between the posts and chassis. I then tried to repeat the maneuver that took out the original tank and all was good except for the fact that one of my shock caps grenaded! Hence the addition of big bore shocks (sweet deal on ebay, $55 w/shipping NIP) LOL!

 

[PatL]

I've been searching this site for threads about the tank and the threads I'm finding have tanks listed that aren't available anymore! Maybe I'm not searching with the correct terminology. When I replaced my tank (OEM) I cut the mounting posts down a little and added 3mm orings between the posts and chassis. I then tried to repeat the maneuver that took out the original tank and all was good except for the fact that one of my shock caps grenaded! Hence the addition of big bore shocks (sweet deal on ebay, $55 w/shipping NIP) LOL!

you're not alone... It seems since they dont make the tmaxx anymore, parts are becoming hard to find. There's parts that are easy to find, but then there's others that all i could find were discontinued... Seems like every1 is focusing on the X-MAXX now

 

[Certified Mike]

@olds97_lss. Recently you were speaking with someone about a Tmaxx fuel tank of I remember correctly. I have been unable to find the thread. I was wondering if you had it or if you could post what you did to your tank to maybe help out here? Thanks Bud!

 

[Certified Mike]

That's because the thread was for a savage!!! Looks like my 'old timers' disease is kicking in!!! It will only be days before I'll be in the news wearing my boxers outside my jeans wandering thru the bushes down town looking for my Jato... While the whole time it's in my back pack, still on my back and still running!!! It's ALL downhill from here guys!!!

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/threads/savage-xl-alternative-fuel-tanks.114009/

This is the post I was looking for. Although it's obviously for a Savage... It could still prove to be quite useful! Doing a full on conversion to do away with the small and dysfunctional tank it the ultimate goal. If the dimensions are close, this may solve your problems!

 

[DXtreme1]

I have the Ofna Violator 150cc fuel tank on my 2.5/3.3 hybrid base chassis and the Redcat Racing Avalanche XTR 150 cc fuel tank. I like that the Ofna tank has a fuel cap that can be front or rear mounted and has the pressure line nipple can be rotated however the Redcat Racing Fuel tank comes with fuel lines, fuel clips and 2 posts for installation and has the best fit so far. Both still require some custom modifications to fit right. In order for both to fit I used a pull start motor mount from a AE NTC3 that I had laying around. Mounted it on top of the steering servo brace to mount the front then used the post for the rear. The rear will require for you to drill a new hole to mount it. Please note these fuel tanks will only fit in the area right beside the transmission with the receiver battery housing removed.

']

[/URL]

 

[PatL]

That's because the thread was for a savage!!! Looks like my 'old timers' disease is kicking in!!! It will only be days before I'll be in the news wearing my boxers outside my jeans wandering thru the bushes down town looking for my Jato... While the whole time it's in my back pack, still on my back and still running!!! It's ALL downhill from here guys!!!

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/threads/savage-xl-alternative-fuel-tanks.114009/

This is the post I was looking for. Although it's obviously for a Savage... It could still prove to be quite useful! Doing a full on conversion to do away with the small and dysfunctional tank it the ultimate goal. If the dimensions are close, this may solve your problems!

I have the Ofna Violator 150cc fuel tank on my 2.5/3.3 hybrid base chassis and the Redcat Racing Avalanche XTR 150 cc fuel tank. I like that the Ofna tank has a fuel cap that can be front or rear mounted and has the pressure line nipple can be rotated however the Redcat Racing Fuel tank comes with fuel lines, fuel clips and 2 posts for installation and has the best fit so far. Both still require some custom modifications to fit right. In order for both to fit I used a pull start motor mount from a AE NTC3 that I had laying around. Mounted it on top of the steering servo brace to mount the front then used the post for the rear. The rear will require for you to drill a new hole to mount it. Please note these fuel tanks will only fit in the area right beside the transmission with the receiver battery housing removed.

Do you by chance happen to know of any good tanks that would take the place of the pipe? I know it kills engines faster & makes less H.P. with a rear exhaust, but i like my rear exhaust. So i have the whole side where the pipe went open... Thinking about a tank that would have a kerplunk in it, for when i flip it, I'm disabled nowadays, so takes some time for me to get to it... Itd be nice just flipping it rightside up & driving off.

 

[Certified Mike]

That's exactly what I was looking for! Thanks @DXtreme1 !!! Nice work!!!

 

[DXtreme1]

That's exactly what I was looking for! Thanks @DXtreme1 !!! Nice work!!!

NP. I'm glad I was able to help.

 

[PatL]

Do you by chance happen to know of any good tanks that would take the place of the pipe? I know it kills engines faster & makes less H.P. with a rear exhaust, but i like my rear exhaust. So i have the whole side where the pipe went open... Thinking about a tank that would have a kerplunk in it, for when i flip it, I'm disabled nowadays, so takes some time for me to get to it... Itd be nice just flipping it rightside up & driving off.

& I'm not worried about drilling holes for anything to fit.. I didnt buy the BB kit for tmaxx, i made everything fit myself... True basher here

 

[DXtreme1]

Do you by chance happen to know of any good tanks that would take the place of the pipe? I know it kills engines faster & makes less H.P. with a rear exhaust, but i like my rear exhaust. So i have the whole side where the pipe went open... Thinking about a tank that would have a kerplunk in it, for when i flip it, I'm disabled nowadays, so takes some time for me to get to it... Itd be nice just flipping it rightside up & driving off.

I have not messed around with that configuration yet but you can make your fuel line longer on both your carb and pipe. Just make sure not to exceed 8 inches. Add an Ofna 1/8 scale fuel filter in line to the carb and this will give you the additional run time hopefully to turn over your truck. Also you can use the same fuel filter online going towards your pressure line. Not only will this avoid possible junk coming from the pipe to enter your tank it will also help cool the air coming into it minimizing heating up your fuel. 8 inches is max for both lines anything longer and you risk losing pressure. The long line from your pipe is meant to stabilize the pressure pulses minimizing bubbling of your fuel at least in theory lol.

& I'm not worried about drilling holes for anything to fit.. I didnt buy the BB kit for tmaxx, i made everything fit myself... True basher here

It's a possibility that a Revo tank can fit due to its slim profile. You will probably need the fuel tank posts from a HPI Nitro RS4. They're pretty tall and still available on EBay.

 

[PatL]

I have not messed around with that configuration yet but you can make your fuel line longer on both your carb and pipe. Just make sure not to exceed 8 inches. Add an Ofna 1/8 scale fuel filter in line to the carb and this will give you the additional run time hopefully to turn over your truck. Also you can use the same fuel filter online going towards your pressure line. Not only will this avoid possible junk coming from the pipe to enter your tank it will also help cool the air coming into it minimizing heating up your fuel. 8 inches is max for both lines anything longer and you risk losing pressure. The long line from your pipe is meant to stabilize the pressure pulses minimizing bubbling of your fuel at least in theory lol.


It's a possibility that a Revo tank can fit due to its slim profile. You will probably need the fuel tank posts from a HPI Nitro RS4. They're pretty tall and still available on EBay.

Ok. Thank you for the info... Ill check out the revo tank. . . basically want something thatll hold more fuel. Stock tmaxx tank only gets 5-7 min a tank so far. That big block sucks it down..... Still have the stock tank because I've never had any of the problems every1 talks about, weird.

 

[DXtreme1]

Ok. Thank you for the info... Ill check out the revo tank. . . basically want something thatll hold more fuel. Stock tmaxx tank only gets 5-7 min a tank so far. That big block sucks it down..... Still have the stock tank because I've never had any of the problems every1 talks about, weird.

The Team Losi 8ight 1/8 scale buggy fuel tank might be a possible contender as well. The HPI Nitro RS4 posts looks like it can be used as well for the application. You just need to measure to verify if it may work in the space you need.

']

[/URL]

 

[PatL]

The Team Losi 8ight 1/8 scale buggy fuel tank might be a possible contender as well. The HPI Nitro RS4 posts looks like it can be used as well for the application. You just need to measure to verify if it may work in the space you need.

Thank you