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aftershock problems

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chuck3

chuck3

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hey guys, I'm VERY new to the site and havent worked out how to do everything yet, so if some of these Q's are answered elsewhere, give me a break.

i have a couple Q's regarding the aftershock. I've owned it for about a year and only have about one gallon throught the thing. from day 1 it has been nothing but a headache. eather it wont run, or it wont run well, or it just breaks parts for the hell of it. my biggest problem right now is that I'm burnign through one-way engine bearings while trying to start the damn truck up. is there any starterboxes on the market or any mods that can be done to the truck or a box itself to start one of these trucks? or is there a way to reduce the stress on the bearing so that i dont burn them up so fast? this problem is really starting to piss me off because its ruined a couple race days for me. thanks in advance guys!
 
Roto starts and any electric starter is really hard on one way berings. But you might be over priming and trying to turn over a floded mill. Just prime untill fule hits the carb then your set. Give it a try it might work. Also you could try a pull start to be easyer on the one ways.

Bryson
 
i dont think its flooded because it has very little resistance to it, it does however take forever to get the thing started with the rotostart, like 30 seconds of non stop spinning just to get the thing to burp
 
huh! Might have an air leak. Have you tried sealing the backplate. Might want to if you havent.

Bryson
 
to tell the truth, in just reading a few posts around here, i know a lot less about motors than i thought i did. so it very well may be a leak somwhere, how do i find a leak?
 
If you get it started. Spray WD40 on it i belive. I just always seal the backplate when i have a problem like this because its usually the problem with me. Also the carb barel might not be seated all the way down which creats a leak.

Bryson
 
thanks for all of the help bryson, ill have to try all of this when i get a new bearing. but to bypass the bearing alltogether, is there any starter box that works with the AS/LST? or has anybody come up with any mods to make one work?
 
That I dont know. I have never heard of anyone using a stater box with one simply because I have never see anybody race one. When I first started going to my track there were a few lst's out there but they were all stock. My neighbor has a lst and I have helped him with it a few times so I have a pretty good idea of the parts on this truck. Well good luck with it.

Bryson
 
Your OWB may not necessarily be broken if it slips when you try to start the engine.

They get gummed up with unburned oil from the fuel easily. What I do is I start by over priming the engine, the loosen the glow plug and turn it over a couple of times, then remove the plug and pour out any excess fuel from the engine. Now it should be ready to fire.
 
There are no starter boxes out there for an LST. The Chassis is too restrictive to allow access to the flywheel. Your best bet is finding a pullstart or sticking with the Electric spinstart. I suggest on the spinstart. Go in 5 second increments. Prior to starting, prime the engine withoug the ignitor on but cover the stinger of the exhaust. You should see the fuel travel in the line if you have clear or near transparent tubing. Right before it gets to the carb, STOP! Then put your glow ignitor on, stop covering the stinger and try starting it. The LST's I have had have been the easiest rigs to start with an electric start. If you are having that many problems,. try a new plug. ALso what percent fuel are you using?
 
well, i know that the OWB is broken because the casing is cracked. and I'm using 20% i believe, havent checked or raced in a while.
 
I had many issues with my AS out of the box. Mostly with the engine/fuel delivery. It was by far the hardest engine I've owned to break-in. Normally I can bang through a break-in in a few hours... this thing took me 8 and I gave up! Wasted an entire rainy Saturday. When I got home, that's when I noticed the leaking...

Carb neck leaked, LSN leaked, back plate leaked, you name it, it leaked. Even the fuel filter leaked all over. It was over tightened and they tore the o-ring at the factory.

I have since tore the engine off, cleaned it entirely with DA (oil residue), sealed the neck and backplate with high temp RTV. I took out the LSN, lubed it heavily with associated green slime (after cleaning the hole with a q-tip and DA and cleaning the needle). I also repaired the stock fuel filter by removing the o-ring, cleaning it well with DA, filled the threads with RTV and put it back together.

That was almost 2 months ago to the day when I bought it. I've done some upgrades to it and I stopped driving my revo and sold my savage. The AS is just makes them both feel like they handle like crap. I could drive circles around my BB revo with this thing.

I've changed the arms to RPM (with lunsford turnbuckles, don't bother with RPM's), replaced wheels/tires with losi zombie maxx tires/HPI 16 spoke t-maxx sized rims, replaced the pipe with a HPI polished pipe, RPM gear cover (modified), transmission gear swap/mod to gain top speed back from smaller tires, made a roll bar and installed a 1400Mah pack with my MX-3 receiver. I sold the radio for $60 or $70 (can't remember). I'm also replacing stock shocks with LST2 shocks as needed. I've only replaced the rears so far since they leaked out of the box. The fronts are original.

I don't know if the arms or pipe were necessary, but for my money, the tires were definitely necessary. Stockers stink. Way to floaty. I've run about 1.5 - 2 gallons through it, about a gallon of which has been at a moto cross track. I've only broken a few things... actually, just a couple turnbuckles and the pull start cord.

The only real issue I've had was the stupid engine. It's going to be my winter engine more than likely, but it's held up well after sealing it all up. It still starts hard for the first time every day, but after that, it starts right up. I don't think it likes to start cold at all. The one time I used a heat gun, it was 60F-70F at the MX track. I heated it to 100F and it popped right off on the third pull. The OWB is now starting to skip on occasion, but I've found that warming the engine makes it engage better. Also, for some reason, it's really easy to over prime/flood this thing. I think it has to do with the fact that the fuel line goes up above the carb. It allows the fuel to run into the engine when it's primed.

Sorry, I didn't mean to go on and on, I just really like this thing. I've had 10 vehicles (xxx-nt, maxx, 21 maxx, sport maxx, lightning buggy, nmt, savage, mammoth, revo) and so far I like this one the best. Handles well, takes quite a bit of abuse, takes big air pretty easily and good acceleration.
 
cool, but what do some of those letters mean, i think the only ones i got where as and onb. but i think your right, i need to seal it all up.
 
LSN - low speed needle
RTV - silicone sealant: [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-COPPER-Hi-Temp-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B0002UEOPA"]Amazon.com: Permatex ULTRA COPPER Hi-Temp RTV Silicone Gasket Maker 3 oz. tube: Automotive[/ame]
 
hey, no problem man! it was all really helpful. but i have another Q. I'm thinking of just ditching the losi mach 27 engine and going with somthing else that is the same size and will easily fit onto an lst body. I'm still really new to these things when it comes to getting them broken in and tuned so an easy tuning and break in would be VERY nice.

edit: I've been lookign at the traxxas engines and am surprised quite a bit about them. would the 2.5r or the 3.3 be closer to the .27?
 
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Traxxas engines won't fit. They are small block. It takes a decent 21 big block to get the aftershock moving. I just installed a XTM 24.7 into mine since I had it on hand. I wanted to see how it did. It has less power than the 26SS. I was mildly surprised. The 24.7 was all the rave about 5 years ago for savage runners... now it's a mediocre engine compared to a stock throw away! I'm comparing the engines as to how they are in the truck. I'm not comparing numbers on paper or documented "horse power". Same truck, same gearing, same fuel, same pipe. The 26SS is more finicky to tune (which is odd as the carb looks identical to the 24.7), but it does have an edge over the 24.7.

I tried an axial 28, but it has some serious carb issues. Even if it didn't, I don't think it has enough RPM's to really see much improvement over the stock engine. It would probably pull wheelies easier, but it doesn't have as high peak RPM as a smaller engine and that's where speed comes from.

If I was to go for a new engine, I'd go for something with more power, but also with a higher usable RPM range. I haven't investigated it much yet... I have the stock engine, an axial that is going to hopefully get replaced and the XTM 24.7 sitting around. That's a lot of engines to kick to the curb... All three don't have more than a few gallons through them.
 
The M26 SS is a dynamite engine I believe.

I haven't been overly impressed with a friend of mines LST2 that has the orange head mach in it nor have I been impressed with another friend who has the grey headed mach in it. Not bad engines, but not a whole lot of power.

I don't remember what it stands for. It's one that you put the bearings for the CB on the shaft without a shaft adapter. There are threaded shafts, long, medium (standard) and short and there are SG shafts. Also called pilot shafts.

This is an SG:
hpig1424.jpg


This is a typical threaded shaft:
osmg4457.jpg


You have to use an adapter for the threaded shaft like this:
trac4844.jpg


The nut portion holds the flywheel on and the shaft is where you put the bearings for the clutch bell.
 
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=DYN0890

this is the one I've been looking at, give me your thiughts on the specs of it please. I'm not sure if the stock AS engine is dynamite or not, it does say losi on the side doesn't it? and to stay with the cb i have, would it be better to go with the SG shaft?

oh, and thanks for all of the help so far!
 
ok, I've decided to quit searching on my own. I'm tired of not knowing anything about these damn things when it comes to buying!!! so I've got an idea, give me a company that you think is the best (and reasons why) and ill look into them to find the size i want. then ill run it by you to see if it will work with the AS
 

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