AE.28 PRO Started/Ran Great , Not So Much Now... Ideas?

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HPI-Killer

Axial Axle Twisting Guru
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Okay so the AE 28 Pro mill that powers my MGT 4.6 well, isnt powering it anymore...

Its a mill that has seen alot of action, fuel & after-run care along with it being sealed up just so you know where it stands on usage and condition.

When I got it I rebuilt the entire pullstarter and made sure all hardware was tight, carb boot wasn't worn and cracked along with checking & zip tieing the fuel lines and tank. Reset the LSN,MSN & HSN back to factory settings and gapped the carb just right (credit card thickness gap). Dropped 30% Blue Thunder in her gullet and sue fired right up. Needle settings were perfect where they were and needed no fine tuning. After a couple speed passes I brought her in and checked the mill temp by spitting on the mill head ajd counting until it evaporated which was 4-5 seconds for 100% evap so temps were alright. First tank ran like a beast, cooled down 10-12m than dropped tank 2 in her and she started right up. All was good until about 2/3 tank use and then she started to bog at idle and 1/4 throttle punch. Before I could get a tool to it, it made a few bogging noises then shut off making what sounded like a quick faint pshh noise right after the mill died (like an air release style pshh). I immediatly checked mill head temp and still seemed kosher and let her cool due to breaking a part. Well within an hour or so I attempted to run it again and it just did not show any interest in firing up for me, at all! No leaks I can see, engine holds plenty of compression and is getting fuel as it should be.. Even charged up the rx and glow starter along with a new plug in hopes to het her started but to no prevail.

Sorry for the long story but if I dont explain the situation we will end up covering bases.of a.noobish problem so the more you know the better..
 
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Nothing clogged? Is it still getting fuel to the carb? no leak at the gas tank?

How did the idle sound? was it normal? i would open up the idle gap with the TX and try to get it to start, and see how it acts on the bottom end.
 
Nothing clogged that I can see or hear, fuel is flowing too. The idle on the last tank was ruff but maintained idle, the first tank purred like a tiger, beautifully..

I'm going to tinker with it on lunch to see what I can discover.
 
Okay I found out that this mill has always had 20% ran through her and I ran 30%, pretty sure thats bad. And on lunch I tinkered with it and same dance, just turns and turns with no interest in starting... I have such good luck with nitro rigs... I'm about fed up and am lost on what I should do next........ GRRRRR
 
You should be able to switch %'s without any problems, minus a tuning change, i used to change mine around alot.
 
Dude I would pull the engine and take it apart clean and inspect everything. If all looks well inside and out on the mill, seal it back up make sure you install new fuel line, then give it another go. I fought trying to get a rig to run for ever. Ended up being bad fuel line in the end. Replaced line and she fired right up.
 
Pulled the mill out and tore it down. Everything is in good mechanical order with no visible problems. The block itself had never been sealed up so I made sure to seal everything up. Will find out tomorrow after it dries up what the news will be. What MM or size or gauge fuel line does this truck use?
 
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You know I kinda..sorta had this same problem, my fix was I took apart the carb where the fuel inlet nipple is, and found metal shavings blocking off the pinholes
 
You mite have to change your name to "AE-killer". :) sorry I couldn't help myself.
 
Lol ^^ or just RC-Killer... haha
 
You should be able to switch %'s without any problems, minus a tuning change, i used to change mine around alot.

+1, I've gone from 20% to 30% and I even ran 16% (LHS gave me a Gal), all I ever had to do was retune.
 
Not yet, I found some new fuel line to use and the primer bulb looks mint condition still. . Took a break from it for a few hours.. Movie and lunch time!

After I clean the tank 100% is there a way to test it and make sure its nice n tight?
 
Plug up the exit side of the tank fuel line with your finger and submerge in water. Blow "lightly into the feed fuel line and look for bubbles. No bubbles = good seal. If you blow too hard you can have air escape thru the filler neck.
 
Rock on Phins thanks!

----

Is it a good idea to rtv seal the carb boot?
 
I would not. If your sealing your engine just the carb neck and backplate of engine is where you want your seal to be.
 
I meant the boot end that attaches to the carb but I just zip tied it.

I think I got it setup right, with the primer bulb do I want the arrow on it to face the way the fuel flows into the car because I'm pretty sure you do? Also when I squeeze the fuel bulb, the fuel sucks back through the line in a little bit when I release the bulb, is this normal?
 
I meant the boot end that attaches to the carb but I just zip tied it.

I think I got it setup right, with the primer bulb do I want the arrow on it to face the way the fuel flows into the car because I'm pretty sure you do? Also when I squeeze the fuel bulb, the fuel sucks back through the line in a little bit when I release the bulb, is this normal?

Yes. My MGT lets a little fuel trickle back to that's normal.
 
Well I dont know what esle to do... engine teardown/seal up done with new fuel lines (primer bulb arrow facing into carb) and leak tested tank.. Guess I got a new shelf queen... Grr!
 

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