Advice on ESC programming

[ztugdriver]

Hello
I’m am trying to reverse engineer an electric fishing reel that uses an RC motor and ESC. I’m just not sure how they configured the ESC to run on a 12 lead acid battery. The current setup is a 4130-400kv motor unknown brand, eflite 60 amp ESC, wireless receiver for a remote control dongle(not going to use it in my setup), micro maestro PMW controller and a potentiometer. I will list my components below that I will be using.

My first question is what would be the recommended settings for my ESC to run on a 12 volt lead acid battery charged by the boats engines while being used so voltage will be between 12-13.8.

Second anyone with experience setting up the micro maestro PMW controller with a potentiometer input. Can I hook it up to my laptop and get its current configuration of the one I have? The manufacturer has free software to configure the controller I’ve just never used it before.

Third is there a better or easier way to control the ESC with a potentiometer other than the PMW controller they use? Could I reliably use a servo tester?

My set up will use the following components:

Tempest 4130-400 brushless motor
https://innov8tivedesigns.com/tempest-4130-400kv-brushless-motor.html

BadAss Renegade V2 Series Brushless ESC, 85A​

https://innov8tivedesigns.com/badass-renegade-v2-series-brushless-esc-85a.html
Micro maestro
https://www.pololu.com/product/1350

Potentiometer not chosen yet but off/0-100%



Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

[CertifiedMike]

L

Post in thread 'Control ESC with Microcontroller directly?'

Aug 5, 2025

It is a PWM signal.

Yeah, I figured that it is some kind of PWM. More curious about the frequency, duty cycle and logic behind how ESC understands the signal. Like, does more duty cycle mean more speed? how does it know if I want to reverse? etc.

• Lukinho98

Your boat dc power should be more than sufficient for this project.

Lipo batteries and tradutional nicads are different because you will destroy your lipo if you drain it down too far. Low voltage cut offs... have been installed in most escs fir this.

Since low voltage should not ever come into play, your direct power should be fine provided the ESC is capable of handling the voltage.

3s is 11.1 so you are close.

XC makes escs for RC as well as other applications. Automotive specificly. Have you seen their site, products?
They may already offer a solution you can use for this project.


https://www.xc-esc.com/

 

[ztugdriver]

Thanks for the info about XC products I’m gonna check them out. The biggest issue is controlling the ESC and finding an easier way or figuring out what settings for the PWM controller. I’ve attached some pics for reference.

 

[Lukedavis]

Thanks for the info about XC products I’m gonna check them out. The biggest issue is controlling the ESC and finding an easier way or figuring out what settings for the PWM controller. I’ve attached some pics for reference. View attachment 262417

View attachment 262418

Would a servo tester work? Or could you use a potentiometer and an Arduino to control the esc signal?

 

[ztugdriver]

That’s what I was thinking I just don’t know how reliable the servo testers are. As you can see I’m limited by space as well. The servo testers would work. They are small enough, and I would desolder the potentiometer from the servo tester and mount it on the case, but I didn’t know if that was a long-term solution to control an ESC or not. The small board in the picture is the micro PWM controller? It’s pretty small so if I can figure out how to read the program off of the one I currently have and reprogram new ones for my other reels that would be ideal. They’re only about $25 but I’ll have to learn how to configure them. They have a potentiometer plugged into one of the channels so I have to use the free software to configure each channel. Obviously it’s been done so I just have to figure out how they did it. Thank you for your suggestion.

 

[PonkyKong]

Is there a reason you can just strip an RC remote?

 

[ztugdriver]

Honestly I wouldn't even know where to begin. Do they make remotes with potentiometers? I figured I would just use what I have just try and figure out how they did it. If you could suggest a remote I would look into it. The reel came with a remote but I wasn't planning on using it. They fail and I never used it to begin with. I was going to remove the wireless board from the system and just use a pot to control the motor. The pictures dont show it but there is a pot on the other side for rpm control.

 

[PonkyKong]

You can disassemble the remote to use the triggers and potentiometers inside. Then its just installation

 

[ztugdriver]

Going by my local RC shop tomorrow and I’m gonna investigate that path. Thank you for your advice.

 

[PonkyKong]

Does the reel have a mechanical brake? Because on electronic drag brake can work. But not knowing the forces involved makes a part list hard to imagine. With a mechanical brakes you have more options. To use with a 12v main source just disable the lipo cutoff. And if transmission of sound matters you might need an inrunner.

 

[ztugdriver]

The reel has a ratchet and pawl that prevents the spool from pulling against the motor in the opposite direction. It also has a drag system that pays out line at a certain tension. When the fish is pulling the drag pays out line and the motor continues to spin basically slipping the drag washers or “clutch”. It can produce quite a large load and draw a high amount of amps but it’s worked like this and is designed to do so. I wouldn’t be using the brake system that the ESC provides.

 

[PonkyKong]

Ok. You can basically use anything. The outrunner requires an outrunner compatible combo. It may be cheaper just to run a high amp low KV buggy combo. No drag brake. Probably no braking at all. And get something fairly big for heat dissipation.

 

[ztugdriver]

Not sure if you saw my parts list above I was going to use but maybe you could tell me if that would work. I chose that ESC because it has a programmer for it and the eflite doesn’t. I don’t know what motor the OEM used but the tempest matched the specs.

 

[PonkyKong]

I would get a radio and receiver combo. Something cheap like a flysky. 3 channel. And then I would look for a decent quality esc with cooling fans and as many amps as is in the budget. Hobbywing combo moat likely. Then fit the largest motor with the lowest KV I could find. Something cheap. Since its just a mule. And pair with a quality 8S esc or greater. From either Hobbywing or XC Esc for budget. But that's just an eyeball guess. Try and fit the most motor you can with the most amps you can afford.

Or.... look for a mechanism that allows the use of a large drill. Then check out industrial and robotics shops parts. To make sure its the right avenue. Since there is many ways to skin this cat.

 

[PonkyKong]

 

[ztugdriver]

I like that waterproof motor but the kv is pretty high I need to keep it around 400kv so the reel doesn’t spin to fast at 12-13 volts. I’m gonna look into those. That particular motor you linked is an inrunner right?

 

[ztugdriver]

Thanks for the good advice and ideas

 

[PonkyKong]

Yeah. But for less than 630 KV you might be out of luck. You can add an i line 3 to 1 reducer. An that will give you the additional reduction you need. Robotics places have those. 550 size is the limit for RC versions. It just plugs onto the front of the motor.

 

[ztugdriver]

Gotcha I did the same thing with the planetary gear reduction on a different type of fishing reel. I like the way it worked.

 

[PonkyKong]

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001704088489.html

For lower KV. Long and fat boat motors. Then an ESC that can handle both the amps buy also the low input power. 24v would be better. If possible. Since fish are mad strong.