Adjusting Engine for new Spur...

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redhatman

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Hey, I heard that when you upgrade to a different tooth number of spur gear, you have to adjust your engine to fit right for it. Is this true? If so, how do you do it? Thanks
-Pat (redhatman)
 
bump, because I feel like it.
 
really?? Is there something else that is similar to this? Or does anyone else no anything about this? Thanks
-Pat (redhatman)
 
Been through 4 engines in my NTC3 and never did anything but switch over the clutch assembly and pinions. Only thing I adjust is the mesh if I change the gearing.
 
I think he's talking about moving the engine to set the mesh.
 
That's a different story then! I thought he was referring to fitting the ... of forget it. It got lost in the wording.

1. Loosen the engine mount screws so that the engine can shift back and forth.
2. Bring the spur and pinion together.
3. Check the mesh by running a peice of paper between the spur and pinion.
4. If the paper has little holes in it from the teeth, it's too tight. You're trying to get it to the point where it almost perforates the paper.
5. Tighten the mount screws on the bottom and just double check the mesh visually and also by feeling the backlash. Hold the clutchbell down with one finger and rock the spur back and forth. There should be a little bit of play (hard to describe). After a while, you'll know it well enough that you won't need to do the paper test.nI just do it by feel.

[inwindow=300]http://www.rcxotic.com/article66.html[/inwindow]
 
I guess if you are really a hard core driver, you might adjust your clutch setup to engage earlier/later for different gearing.

How do you people have so many posts? I feel like I talk too much as it is and I only have 70 in like 3 months.
 
Pinions ???? Real men run clutchbells.... lol
 
ImBroken said:
Pinions ???? Real men run clutchbells.... lol

LOL, yea...I didnt even know you could get a pinion on a gas car. I thought you could only have clutchbells....thats what I have.

BTW, I am pretty sure thats what I heard. I have to set the mesh. Thanks Diver6127
-Pat (redhatman)
 
Personally I can't stand the paper thing. :D My fingers are too big, and I keep dropping crap trying to do it and all it does is pi** me off. All you need to do for gear lash is adjust the engine (or motor, for electrics) so that if you hold your spur solid and wiggle the pinion or clutchbell, you can feel a little play there. Rotate the spur 90°, three times, to check this play all the way around the spur, then lock down the bolts.

Diver's # 5 is perfect. :D
 
kx250ryder said:
I guess if you are really a hard core driver, you might adjust your clutch setup to engage earlier/later for different gearing.

How do you people have so many posts? I feel like I talk too much as it is and I only have 70 in like 3 months.
Well, actually, I do that as well but that's a whole different story. It's a little easier with a centax clutch. When I had my NTC3, I did it with spring tensions. I tried shaving the clutch shoes before but got over zealous a few times and took off way too much and messed up the timing. Springs are the way to adjust for the beginner.
 
Diver6127 said:
Springs are the way to adjust for the beginner.

springs?? for what, and where do they go?
 
If you have an MIP clutch, you would know.. The spring keeps the clutch from engaging until a certian rpm.
 
Read this: http://home.howstuffworks.com/chainsaw4.htm

Centrifugal clutch mechanics. The spring provides force against the clutch until the centrifugal force of the rotating crank shaft and wieght of the clutch shoes overcomes the force of the spring. Then the clutch shoes swing out and drag on the clutch bell which powers the driveline of the vehicle.
 
clutch is what engages to move your car forward. There are different types of clutches ... all utilize springs that keep the clutch shoes closed till centrifical force either swings them open, slides them outward or slides forward to engage the clutch bell.
 
yea, so all of our rc cars have one right? It just might be a stock one and not the best.
 
Well . . the GT's stock clutch doesn't have springs, and doesn't **really** need them because the shoes are so light, they slip easily when you hold the brake. The downside is this causes the truck to move at a slow walking speed at idle unless you hold the brake. The MIP clutch in your link cures that part of it, the spring holds the shoes in at idle.

I think where this got from gear lash to clutches is what different gear ratios do at certain clutch settings. If you gear down, obviously you're going to have more low-end punch so the clutch is going to engage sooner, so they're saying you would want to adjust that engagement to compensate.
 
rocknbill said:
Well . . the GT's stock clutch doesn't have springs, and doesn't **really** need them because the shoes are so light, they slip easily when you hold the brake. The downside is this causes the truck to move at a slow walking speed at idle unless you hold the brake.
I had pm'd that to diver as I didn't want to confuse the crap out of redhatman... oh well.

I thought it was weird that they didn't use the spring. Whatever works I guess.
 
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