i just bought the adam drake. i did a search to figure out what engine to buy and i came up w/no conclusion. knowing that i normally go overboard, what would a good engine be? the os family is looking really good to me right now. any suggestions? i want this thing turbo-charged.
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Adam Drake
- Thread starter imnotsure
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Turbo Charged???? I say go with the Mugen .12 or the O.S. CVR. I put the O.S. in there and its plenty fast. Any faster and it would be out of control. I run at temps of 210 and have no need to lean any more than that.
The Mugen I run in my on-road and holy crap does this thing have power to spare!!!
I'm certain there are others that would do just as good, but, these 2 I can vouch for and would be my first recommendation.
The Mugen I run in my on-road and holy crap does this thing have power to spare!!!
I'm certain there are others that would do just as good, but, these 2 I can vouch for and would be my first recommendation.
Its controllable, but I had to richen a hair yesterday to keep it down. Mind you, it doesn't take much power to lift a Drake. Its light as can be. The hard part with this ride is getting the suspension dialed in so you can keep the front wheels down AND get the best speed possible. In no way is this a bad thing 
The Drake and in general, the XXX-NT, handles like a dreamer. Nothing to complain about at all.
The Drake and in general, the XXX-NT, handles like a dreamer. Nothing to complain about at all.
- Thread starter
- #5
that's what i wanted to hear. i've been doing a search for the past month trying to figure out the next rc to buy for my son's b-day. i first started out on-road ntc3 all the way to offroad savage, then back again and i finally made my decision. i think it was a good one from everything i've read. it was kind of hard picking one out for him cuz he'll probably end up getting bored w/it, so i'll end up taking over. that's why i'm trying to get this to where when i play, it has plenty of power and when he plays i can run it rich and control it.
this one?http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAGD0&P=7
this one?http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAGD0&P=7
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I have raced mine in the past.
My choice is 2 fold.
For the short tracks I use an OS .12 cv-r and for the long tracks I switch to the OS .12tr.
If I was to choose an engine today I would take a serious look at the Fantom 03 .12FR Look at the RPMs on that puppy....
My choice is 2 fold.
For the short tracks I use an OS .12 cv-r and for the long tracks I switch to the OS .12tr.
If I was to choose an engine today I would take a serious look at the Fantom 03 .12FR Look at the RPMs on that puppy....
- Thread starter
- #8
this thing will be here tomorrow is the shaft on the link above the right one . thats the first step ,do you have a link for the fantom.also how much of a difference is it between the .12 to the .15 cvr. there is some hp difference but can you race with the .15? he told me tonight that he does want to start racing. so now i need to find something that he can race with.i'm clueless on what to get now.
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You will need the short shaft.
Here is the Fantom Side Exhaust. You get more HP with the rear but I think its overkill.
43,000 rpm, 1.15 hp Side
43,000 rpm, 1.30 hp Rear.
http://stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/searchpn.pl?stype=cust&pn=FAN&man=Fantom Racing Products
You get more HP and 7,000 more rpm for 10.00 more.
Here is the Fantom Side Exhaust. You get more HP with the rear but I think its overkill.
43,000 rpm, 1.15 hp Side
43,000 rpm, 1.30 hp Rear.
http://stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/searchpn.pl?stype=cust&pn=FAN&man=Fantom Racing Products
You get more HP and 7,000 more rpm for 10.00 more.
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If he is going to race you may just have to go with a .12 no matter what. Check with your local track.
If it is a .12 then I suggest the following:
Mugen MT (MR now) .12 Bighead
OS .12 CVR
I dont know much about the phantom. Sorry
If it is a .12 then I suggest the following:
Mugen MT (MR now) .12 Bighead
OS .12 CVR
I dont know much about the phantom. Sorry
i have the 03 fantom fr12 rear exhaust in my xxx-nt. mind you its not a drake but i will still let you know how i like it later tonight. I'm finally gonna get to run it today. by the way eddy thanks for the info i didnt even know my engine had that much power!
- Thread starter
- #13
Originally posted by Çh®i§tiªñ
If he is going to race you may just have to go with a .12 no matter what. Check with your local track.
If it is a .12 then I suggest the following:
Mugen MT (MR now) .12 Bighead
OS .12 CVR
I dont know much about the phantom. Sorry
Well I called MM Hobby today they said to get OS .12tr.
This was coming from a guy that races for team Houston.
He also said that the OS .12tr will beat the .12 cvr in top
end, torque and that the fantom .12 is not tunning friendly
but not as bad as the picco. Also said the mugen .12 is top
notch. I think I’m leaning to the tr at this point but waiting
for Banshee report. Anyone disagree with what I was told.
The TR is a rear port.
You will need to experiment with headers to properly mount the pipe. The Drake comes with a side port header.
GOOD CHOICE
You will need to experiment with headers to properly mount the pipe. The Drake comes with a side port header.
GOOD CHOICE
- Thread starter
- #15
i'm about finished now, if you look at the picture below, i haven't adjusted any of the tires. the rear wheels are kind of towed in a little towards the front of the truck. is this normal? did i put on something backwards? when you look at the directions they say they're 3 degrees inside, one degree outside on tow in. can someone explain this to me? so basically what i'm asking is how do you explain the inside being 3 and the outside being 1? but other than this, i only have a few more items to go.
That is the way the rears are supposed to be. The block under the tranny in the rear (the one that holds the pins for the a-arms) controls how many degrees you got going on there. There are a couple of option blocks out if you ever decide to change it up.
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- #17
How do you explain the inside being 3 and the outside being 1degree. I understand that the arms determine the toe but ………..
are they talking about the inside of the wheel 3 and the outside 1? If your in 3 on the inside your out 3 on the outside. I know there is a simple answer for this maybe i'm making this harder than it should be but I don't understand.
I think i get it the inside of the arms are at 3 and the outside by the wheels are at 1. right?
are they talking about the inside of the wheel 3 and the outside 1? If your in 3 on the inside your out 3 on the outside. I know there is a simple answer for this maybe i'm making this harder than it should be but I don't understand.
I think i get it the inside of the arms are at 3 and the outside by the wheels are at 1. right?
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- Thread starter
- #19
Need a few more questions answered what is a good temp for a .12 os tr break in also every time I goose the throttle the fuel goes into the muffler vacuum line. What is this all about? I’ve tried to move the line higher hoping that gravity will help but have had no luck.
Where is the backpressure fitting? Its it on top of the lid itself or on top of the tank? If its on the tank and not the lid, you can either mod the tank or buy the newer version. This eliminates the backpressure pissing of fuel into the exhaust. Easy fix, but, can be frustrating and cause excessive stalls if left unfixed.
Break-in temps I like to keep below 250 but no less than 180ish. 225 seems to be my happy spot.
Break-in temps I like to keep below 250 but no less than 180ish. 225 seems to be my happy spot.