• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • ✓ Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • ✓ RC tips & troubleshooting
    • ✓ Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • ✓ Share builds & upgrades

Adam drake

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
P

PiErow

Hardcore RCTalk User
Messages
2,571
Reaction score
1
Points
0
RC Driving Style
I plan to race next season.I have done some reserch and the adam drake is the one tio get if you race. I talked to my track officials and i can use any engine. What do you recomend for racing only? And when i looked at gearing a lot of the spurs where in the 70s. My track(hobby stop) is decently small. How should i gear?

Thanks
 
Last edited:
Are you sure any engine? Sure they didn't mean any Non turbo style 15 engine?
 
I called he said any .15. But other than non turbo whats a good one?

What all will i need for the build beside allen heads and tools?
 
You could use a .12 as well.

OS have good engines.
 
Well generally the 12 sized mills are more for top end and the 15 sized mills are for low end grunt. Mayhem has got a point. OS have many engines that will work. I have driven a RC10 GT with a MT12 and it was damn fast.

Most engines geared right will work the way you expect. Look at the engine specs and see what is the top rpm it is capable.
 
I tell ya, my OS TR will outmotor just about any .15 out there.

Torque is more then you can drive as well.

Brandon
 
you dont need a wild motor in a ST. what you really want is something with a smooth powerband. that is where the OS motors excel. a cv-r will be more than enough in the drake, i use one in mine and its plenty fast, but the key is, its drivable. you can get more powerful motors but if its peaky the power will come on too strong and you will loop out. id stay with a .12 because while your local track may not mind a larger engine, if you decide to try out other tracks, you may find that they require a .12 as per ROAR regs. most tracks will allow a .15 if its the original motor in a RTR truck, but thats the only exception. and since your looking at a drake, there is no engine included to use that excuse. like i said id get a CV-R but if your really bent on a fast motor try the os .12 TR I've had faster motors than my cv-r but they really arent nessessary for racing and are more often than not a hinderance to your performance.

ill also add, that i gear mine a little tall, so that it actually takes away some of the low end power. this makes it easier to drive, and a bonus is higher top speeds.
 
I simply went with the TR so I could use torque to get me over jumps, instead of speed. I believe the same could be said for the cv-r as well. Both seem to be very smooth. This is a must in a St truck if you ask me.

Brandon
 
I ran the OS 15 cv-r(x) in my xxx-nt sport. It did really well. I ran stock gearing. It wouldn't pull a wheelie, but I think that had more to do with the setup than the engine. I didn't race, only bashed. But where I bashed with it was kind of like a track. It had a nice smooth powerband with a lot of low end grunt. Not a real high RPM engine, but for what you want, it would probably do really well. Another thing about the engine is, if you take care of it (ARO, break in right, piston at BDC every shut down, clean filters, temps below 270...) it will give you a long life. I ran 6 gallons through mine, then traded the truck. I asked the current owner a month ago how much he had burned with it and he said about 1.5 gallons.

For $135, it's a damn good engine.
 
i'd say use a .12 just in case you ever want to race on a track with stricter rules... also when you beat the guys on your track running .18's you can point and laugh
 
I'm getting the cvr. Those of you that have built this kit, is it verry hard? I have a good knowlage of rc but this will be my first kit? What extras did you need to build?
 
i have a .12tr in my drake. my wheels barely hold traction with that... a bigger engine = less traction. the .12tr is very fast... the stock gearing also seems fine on the drake. you're buying the car that has all the race ready hop ups on it already remeber.
 
xxBanditxx said:
I'm getting the cvr. Those of you that have built this kit, is it verry hard? I have a good knowlage of rc but this will be my first kit? What extras did you need to build?
Click to expand...

I didn't build mine (xxx-nt RTR), but I had it completely apart more than once.

I'd suggest getting the RRP aluminum monster diff gear. I went through those stupid things about once a weekend just bashing. After I replaced with the RRP, it never broke in 4 gallons of use.

I don't know the drake specifically, but if it also doesn't come with the carbide diff balls from losi, get those too. They last tons longer than the normal steel ones. They stay smoother much longer. I put those in with I put the RRP gear in and never took the diff apart again for 4 gallons, then I traded the truck off.

You also may want to get a aluminum rear pivot block. I broke a lot of those things, stock and graphite.
 
i havent hurt my diff gear yet(plastic one) drake is also against the metal diff gear(we have gone over this before)
 
I think I was in on that convo too Arrow....I have 2 Drakes and run 1 with each simply because I only race one of them. I was with Olds on this but after many emails between myself and The Drake I learned that if you set your slipper a bit looser then the stripped diff gear is a thing of the past. Since trying some of his tips about how to set the slipper I have lost zero plastic diff gears in 4 months of weekly running. The way he described it was that the slipper will slip and stop the stripping of the diff gear. It always stripped from on the gas landings from bumps and jumps. I began running my slipper around 3 1/4 turns out and after talkin with him I ended up at 4 3/4 turns out. This gave smoother acceleration when hard on the gas (didnt try to wheelie) as well as not stripping the gear from on the gas landings. Its less weight as well.

But this is something he will have to learn (setting the slipper) and until then he cannot go wrong with the metal gear.

I also would recommend the OS as this guys first mill. Yes there are faster mills (I run MT .12 bigheads) but once the carb on the OS is set you may never have to touch it again....This is huge when trying Nitro for the first time. Tuning is a hassle sometimes and can become a huge deterant.

Yes the 18T clutch bell and clutch shoes w/ spring are included. If hes running a tight track he might go with an OS carb restrictor at first to smooth out the power. Another thought is a 17T clutch bell for better low end punch.

Saggy
 
Thanks saggy. This is not my first nitro. With a 17t cb what size spur should i run? Yes the track is tight.

As well anytknown sites that have a lot of info on this truck can you post them.
 
i say stay with the stock diff. mine is holding up fine. just set the slipper right as stated. i can pull wheelies in grass if i hit a bump while on the gas, so the slipper is right on the edge. i also run on a tight track, but i actually geared up. the cv-r has plenty of punch to power up the jumps, but running a larger bell, makes the car a little easier to drive on a slick track. also hop on losi's site and download the .pdf of adams setup for "the dirt" it works excellent and is better than the stock setup. this setup is what Aaron Waldron is using for all tracks and just changing tires depending on conditions. as far as extra stuff needed to build the kit. just the usual selection of shock oils, and different sized wrenches. i also recommend the aluminum front and rear pivot blocks. i think those are the only aftermarket items I'm running on my drake other than some ofna throttle linkage and some countersunk washers. if you need any more info, Aaron waldron has his own thread to answer questions on, over on rctech.net I've found him to be very helpful.
 

RC Builds

Back
Top