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A couple tranny/diff questions

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H

hugo

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Does the transmission require any lube inside once I do the FOC? Also, do the diffs require any kind of sealant (silicon)so they won't leak? Why wouldn't the trans require fluid like the diffs? :ponder2:
 
T-Maxx diffs do not sela (stock ones) so skip the worries about sealing and filling those.

The trans uses a grease and it is applied very sparingly to most of the surfaces. Not much is needed. I have had goo dluck using the Team Associated Black Grease for trans lube when I cracked the case for repairs.
 
As far as I know, those gears in the tranny are meant to be ran dry. If oil or grease gets in the two speed, it won't shift.
 
I used a light coat of white litheum grease on my trans when I ran the RRP steel gears. They looked like new after 8 gallons of 21 BB abuse.

The diffs on the other hand force you to use grease. Bad Horsie makes some diff locker grease for open diffs. Supposed to work pretty good in lue of silicone oil and won't leak out.

Here's a link: http://www.badhorsie.com/products/diff-lock-grease.html
 
I have dry lub that I use on my mnt. bike. It sprays on from a can and evaporates leaving the dry lube. Anyone have any idea how that would work on the tranny and dif. gears?
 
unless you are running ALL METAL GEARS in your tranny you don't need lube.....IF you feel you do then check all the bearings first...the gears only bind when they can't hold the mesh.......applying grease too liberally will cause more headaches than it's worth in my opinion...the 2 greases mentioned above are very thick and will work but unless you know what is too much then I would just run it dry.......T-maxx diffs are not worth sealing...if you want more performance out of them you'll be looking at spending some dough to make them sealed properly....aluminum cups and cases for one.....
 
The Maxx trany is meant to run dry. As mentioned above if any grease gets into the centrifugal clutch it will not properly engage.

If you feel the need, use the one of the greases listed above. Apply it to the gears and move the gears to distribute it evenly. Remove the gears and wipe of as much as you can. After that reassemble.
 
Yep, I did not mean for all the surfaces to be lubed, just lube it where you originally found any lube. The factory seems to have put a very light film of grease in the places where Eddy points out. It certainly does not need to be "packed" with grease or lube.
 
I found out the hard way :D
At one point I coated the trans gears thick with clear silicone grease thinking the more the better. LMAO @ me after 5 minutes of running. It wouldn't engage at all. The lube got onto the internal clutch and did what it was supposed to do, reduce friction.

Learn the easy way, or the hard way. Everything I read said don't do it but what do they know??
 
Hey, Ed., when my wife trashed her trans on the last tank of break in, I took it apart and after discovering what looked like little maggots everywhere (gear teeth) I started to clean up the mess. Most of the little gear teeth were stuck to the inside of the trans case by what appeared to be lube, and all the gears had a light coat, too. I wonder if this might have been part of the problem as to why it ate a set of gears to begin with.
 
the chewed teeth usually is followed by bad bearing from my experience...the lil bugger goes and the shaft can get ****-eyed in the bearing hole.....(ahhhh I can see the comments flying for that statement already).......I've seen that happen on 3 trannies I built and didn't check everything......on the 3rd one I figured out what was going on.....the one I have now I just run dry.....never gives me any problems.....well it didn't give me any (maxx is apart again).....
 
Or the chewed teeth can come from a wife hitting reverse while still on throttle going forward.
 
As far as I know you can't go in reverse until the RPM's drop to an idle so I would't think it's that, I have done the FOC and run mine dry and it seems to work just fine...
 

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