4x4 slash axle carriers

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James nichols

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Now that arms and axles have been done the axle carriers are apparently the weak link. What are the best axle carriers out there? We can can will up to $250 every Saturday night at the local indoor track so I'm just trying to bullet proof this thing. I'm usually at the front of the pack unless it breaks then I'm out entry money and parts so I'm looking to not break anymore. If there are any other weak points of this thing let my know. Parts that have been upgraded are axles, shocktowers, arms and shocks
 
RPM are not bullet proof. Id go with a aluminum set for about 50 to 70 $ that should get you close to bullet proof
 
I'm not looking for a bullet proof part I'm looking for a bullet proof truck lol
 
sorry james can't be done you need to have a weak link or you will break big dollar parts..
 
I get that. I'm just trying to make it as bullet proof as possible. I know there's always going to be a weak link or a bad landing that'll break stuff etc. Just trying to get it to a point that it doesn't happen every single time I race it. I'm coming from the world or actual racecars and its the same there. I'm looking to cut yve learning curve of these down and find out where the factory stuff is weak
 
ok.. rims on that traxxas can also be a weak link.. axel shafts,, C hubs
 
Does the lcg chassis still take the suspension components as normal chassis? Lcg chassis puts me in a much stiffer class
 
What arms are you running?

I went with Hot Racing carriers/c-hubs and carriers on the rear. They have been holding up well to my abuse on my stampede 4x4 vxl which I think uses the same parts as the slash 4x4.

2019-0331-Stampede-HotRacingFrontCloseup.jpg

2019-0331-Stampede-HotRacingSide.jpg
 
Arms are stock so far. I dont plan on going aluminum on everything cuz then yve weak part becomes the chassis and other bigger components. I'm planning on doing rpm arms and aluminium axle carriers. When I broke the last axle carrier I had launched it far multiple times and it was fine but then it took a weird launch that I couldn't control in the air and landed funny and broke the carrier. In all honesty a trigger happy jump on my part to see if I could clear the quad instead of double double
 
I'm on my second set of RPM arms. They stretch/bow pretty bad over the course of a year. The hinge pin holes get all egged out, so I replace them before they end a bash session prematurely.

I ran plastic c-hubs/carriers for a while. The RPM arms allow for a lot of give, but I'd end up with a ton of slop in the front and would rip the king pin screws out once in a while with stock. RPM was even worse. After breaking a few/ripping out threads and breaking a few rear carriers, I went with alloy.

I really wish I had a drill press so I could drill out the front c-hubs and put bearings in for the king pins like I've seen others do. Pretty sure if I tried messing with it freehand, I'd just destroy $30 worth of c-hubs. Perhaps if these get worn out, I'll give it a try before installing a new set.
 
I'll have to look up the kingpin bearing deals. I gave a full machine scoop at my my disposal
 
I read about it on traxxas site. People that race were doing it to limit slop/wear and to add precision. They would stick in a drillbit the size of the hole where the kingpin goes, then line it up/clamp it down in a drill press, then run a 6mm (I think) bit through and use a 4x6 flanged bearing or something similar. Without a drill press or some other clamping/stationary cutter, there's no good way to hold the c-hub and get the top/bottom lined up properly when boring out the holes.

The hot racing c-hubs use brash bushings, but for the life of me, I couldn't find just the bushings for sale anywhere. So when they wear out and get sloppy, I'll just have to replace them again.

I lost a bushing once and ended up using some aluminum spacers that I ground down as I didn't have anything brass that was comparable.
 
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