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3 Disk brake setup

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Error401

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Has anyone set up their brakes with 3 disks, 1 on front, 2 on rear? I've messed with my brakes on my K3 till I'm blue in the face and still can't get the rear to act like I want. I changed my servo from a Futaba 9401 to a HiTec 645MG and still can't get enough brakes in the rear. Adjusted the linkages with similar results. I'm running a 5 cell hump, so it's not a power issue.

Anyway, I was thinking that if I put a second disk on the rear, I should get more braking back there with less effort from the servo.
 
I thought the K3 went back to a single disc setup?

Just adjust for minimal DRAG brake in the rear, and when it brakes in, you should be fine.
 
Yeah, the K3 has single disks front and rear. I drove EP's K1 and kind of liked the added braking of dual disks on each side, but I'd have loosened the front a tad if it were mine.
 
Weird. I have a JR590 in my throttle position and I can set up the linkage so the rear tires completely lock up when I brake with my storm.

Maybe try a hopup brake pad like hardcore racing's or something?
 
I installed the dual brake set-up front and rear on my K3 and it works perfect. I have it set so the back will barely lock up if I give it full brakes. I am using the 94358z for both steering and brake/throttle, so I will never have a shortage of power.
 
Bill, do you mean that you have 2 disks for front and 2 for rear, or just 2 total? I liked the old K1 brake setup, but the single disks (for each half) seem to fade alot due to my driving style and track.
 
Error401, I put two hardcore titanium disks on the front and two on the rear.
My line of thinking was that with the two disks there would be less of a load on the servo, pads, and disks themselves thereby reducing wear. I could be full of it, but like I said the brakes work perfect for me. If I want all the tires to lock up I'm sure that I could set them to easily. Something that is kind of cool is you can hear the brakes come on, even over the sound of the engine.
 
That's exactly what I was thinking. More pads, more brakes per same ammount of effort from the servo. It should also reduce fade too. I might get a set of K1 disks and try it out. If I really like it (which I'm pretty sure I will), I'll probably get some Ti disks.

What do they sound like?
 
They make a kind of shhhhh sound. I first noticed when I was breaking-in my engine. As I was running it back and forth I thought why not wear in the brakes to seat them also?
 
That's cool, I had envisioned that sound 1:1 brakes make when they need replacing. I can hang with a shhhhhh, but not an EEEEEEEEEEeeeeeeeee.
 
I don't think I could hang with the EEEEEEEEEEEEeeeeeeeeee either.
 
a sort of off topic question... why do you want more braking in the rear? Is that so you can swing the rear end around a turn? I solved that by putting a bit stiffer springs in the rear and 50wt oil in the shocks. I can swing the rear around the tightest of corners with just a tap on the brakes.
 
tried that. Running 30/50wt front and rear, with preload spacers (about 9/16" or so) on all shocks. And yes, that was kind of my aim. On extremely loose dry surfaces the brakes are fine, for most of a tank, but start to fade after the last 1/2. On the track I run at, the surface is watered sticky clay and the brakes fade pretty quick, almost to the point of nearly not having any. I let it cool and they come back, mostly.
 
I run with 1 brake pad in front and rear on my K2.. and have no braking problems.. i think having dual discs require you to have a stronger servo.. to squeeze all that rotating mass together.. but i run 1 brake disc.. with no prob..

i run more brake in the rear so i can swing the rear around.. and a little brake in the front for turns right after a jump..

shocks are 60weight in the front and 40 in the rear.. with spacers so the rear is level.. and the front is above level.. setup is hooked on everything.. i usually dont have to change anything except on a highbite track.. i will stiffen the car some.. with 70 in the front 50 in the rear..
 
my x-terminator has 3 brakes and i can lock down the wheels in a heart beat but i like a little bit of sip so i just adjusted the likage
 
Adding a second brake disc and corresponding pads will not increase the amount of force your brakes have.

Running dual disc's help with fade and wear, that is all. Since you're haveing fade problems, I would recommend it.

Otherwise, if you just want to have more rear bias, just fooling with linkages or doing a custom setup can do wonders. Even one single disc brake can hash your diffs with a standard servo, you just need good linkages.

Try moving the attachment point closer to the pivot of the servo, or lengthen the linkage off the brake post. Either will increase the amount of torque exerted on the brake pad.
 
I'll play with it some more, but may still go with the K1 brake setup.

I should be getting a ton of brake action with the servo I'm running, but they tend to fade alot.
 
I know this isn't exactly on topic here, but the fella who said he put like 70wt fluid in the shocks, that's some really stiff shocks yes?

The small track over by these parts is, well, small, and technical. A large jump, and lots of little ones. It's rough on the buggies.

Everyone says use softer (35wt) in the shocks because of this, and the hardness of the dirt itself. Is this a rule?

Again sorry for the change in subject but hey, it's just a conversation =)
 
On my Storm I tried 2 in front one in rear, then I tried two in rear and one in front. That was after trying 2x2. I went back to 1x1 as it was too much brake for my style and the ass would wash out. I have a hard packed track with light dust on top also.
 
Breaker, I think I'm running 50/30 and so far it works for me on the track I run at.

HB, the track I run on is watered alot, and often. Thus, it's a fairly sticky surface and I think that's what's making my brakes fade. Personally, I like hardpack with dry dust, but that's not what I have to run on. Stickey tracks kind of piss me off sometimes. Technical tracks are ok, if the surface is just right.
 
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