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.21 Tranny Upgrades - Which gears?

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BrowneR

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I have just purchased a picco P2 for my t-maxx and i wish to upgrade some of the tranny gears to RRP steel to avoid the stripped gears i fear so much. (this being my second conversion i know what its like :dumb:)

I have fitted a RRP steel forward primary and a Traxxas forward only conversion. Which gear do you reckon is most likely to strip next? And what do you think about the forward only conversion? Did i gain any strength from that?

I would also be glad of any tips on toughening up my diffs - i have them shimmed already.

Thanks in advance.
 
4992 used to go out on me all the time. I replaced all that are replacable in the trans with RRP. I also used RRP's FOC. The only gears in the trans that you can't change out are the large 2 speed gears. (and maybe reverse... i'm not sure). I purched all the steel ones. That was about 5 gallons ago on my 21 maxx. I just recently had it apart because of the one way in the two speed slipping and all the RRP gears still look like new.
 
thanks guys

thanks for the info. :)

i'm just interested to know what maintenance steel gears need? i hear aluminium on aluminium is not a good combo what about a steel on steel gearing or aluminum on steel? Do i need any special lube/grease?

I was thinking of using some motorbike chain wax that is sitting in my garage as it dries on and sticks well but maybie thick grease would be better?
 
I just used white grease sparingly to lube mine. Just enough to wet the teeth of the gears. Aluminum to plastic is fine, steel to steel is fine. Aluminum to aluminum should be ok if it's the same type of aluminum on both sides, but it won't last as long as steel.

You run aluminum for quicker spool up of the gears. I could see it wanted on a maxx that isn't a 21 maxx, but with a 21 maxx, you can run all steel because of the extra power.
 
I would look more at your slipper setup and the gear sizes.
RRP makes a great double slipper. Using the (E)-Maxx slipper will reduce the amount of torque on the transmission parts and help keep you from blowing drive train parts. There are other solutions on the market but I haven't tried any others. Proper slipper adjustment will do more for you than throwing money into parts for your tranny. Don't get me wrong, Bulletproofing everything is great but proper adjustment will help keep the costs down.

I use the Kippster difs. They are great but will set you back $150 -$175.00 per diff. Maximizer make a set of alum. cups and RRP has a gear set. Without cases these will only run you about 50.00 a set. Add a GOOD alum case for another $50.00 a set and your golden. You can also research 1/8th scale diffs to go bulletproof.
 
Get a spray can of white lithium grease. Use a thin coat if it. Just about any hardware store will carry it.
 

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