14 MM Wheel hub upgrade

[TMaxxMike]

I broke it again. I stripped out a 14 MM Traxass wheel that is brand new. I was going to JB weld it for now. I was looking at the Proline Big Joe Tires with wheels and the 17 MM adapters from Traxass. Thats $100. Is there a better or cheaper way to go? Any advice is much appreciated. Thanx.

 

[Tape]

why are they stripping is what you need to find out before emptying your pockets.

 

[olds97_lss]

I'd just snag a set of traxxas 17mm geodes with tires off ebay and a set of traxxas 17mm hex's off ebay and a set of hpi flange nuts.
wheels/tires ($63):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-2-4GHZ-...ES-GEODE-SPLINED-17MM-MAXX-5674-/112007336774

17mm hubs ($11):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Summit-HEX-HUBS-5353X-wheel-nuts-17mm-splined-Traxxas-5607-/251922399390

hpi nuts ($7):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HPI-racing-Z680-Flanged-Locknut-M5X8mm-Black-SVG-X-4-HPIZ680-/301939806726

Then cut the hubs off flush with the hex that goes into the wheel and use the HPI nuts. Doing this avoids the inevitable slop you will (it will happen) get after the threads grind away at the inside of the hubs. I had this issue on both of my revo's with traxxas hubs. But now have been cut off flush and HPI nuts used instead. No issues since. Really wish I had taken a photo of one of them for explanatory reasons.

 

[Tape]

I would have sold you mine cheaper than that, the factory wheels/tires almost weigh a pound a piece and is a major reason people upgrading their engine is destroying their driveline parts, it's not the engine destroying parts it's the heavy wheels/tires.

 

[olds97_lss]

Yeah, the talons are definitely lighter. I have found the 3.3 tires hold up better though, especially when running on concrete. I actually proffer the 3.8" chevrons. That's what I run now on my bb revo and savage. I have a set of SRC belted offroad tires on my small block revo. They seemed pretty light, but I didn't weigh them.

 

[Tape]

I'm looking for a set of light 3.8" wheels for the Pro-line tires I bought which weigh 6.8oz's each (Tire/Foam). The geodes wheels weigh about 9oz's each. The bad thing is that the retailers do not list the weight of the wheels so it's mostly a guessing game unless your local shop will allow you to weigh them which I don't have the nuts to ask them

 

[TMaxxMike]

I would have sold you mine cheaper than that, the factory wheels/tires almost weigh a pound a piece and is a major reason people upgrading their engine is destroying their driveline parts, it's not the engine destroying parts it's the heavy wheels/tires.

I was almost thinking the same thing. I just upgraded to metal outdrive shafts from Traxass. The first thing I noticed was the difference in weight. Now, the rear driveshafts have been popping out because they must be too short to work with the Trutrack setup. It's always something....

I'd just snag a set of traxxas 17mm geodes with tires off ebay and a set of traxxas 17mm hex's off ebay and a set of HPI flange nuts.
wheels/tires ($63):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-2-4GHZ-...ES-GEODE-SPLINED-17MM-MAXX-5674-/112007336774

17mm hubs ($11):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Summit-HEX-HUBS-5353X-wheel-nuts-17mm-splined-Traxxas-5607-/251922399390

HPI nuts ($7):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HPI-racing-Z680-Flanged-Locknut-M5X8mm-Black-SVG-X-4-HPIZ680-/301939806726

Then cut the hubs off flush with the hex that goes into the wheel and use the HPI nuts. Doing this avoids the inevitable slop you will (it will happen) get after the threads grind away at the inside of the hubs. I had this issue on both of my revo's with traxxas hubs. But now have been cut off flush and HPI nuts used instead. No issues since. Really wish I had taken a photo of one of them for explanatory reasons.

Thanx. I think I might go that route.

 

[olds97_lss]

Now, the rear driveshafts have been popping out because they must be too short to work with the Trutrack setup. It's always something....

Do you have these outdrive cups?
www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTPP0

They are a bit longer for the alternate revo arms.

 

[TMaxxMike]

Do you have these outdrive cups?
www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTPP0

They are a bit longer for the alternate revo arms.

Thanx. Those look like they will solve my current issue

 

[TMaxxMike]

Do you have these outdrive cups?
www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTPP0

They are a bit longer for the alternate revo arms.

Well Olds. I went and purchased those extension cups at the LHS. I took the front end apart and found the drivecups are the same as what I bought. The cup is 17.5 MM long. I am going to remove all 4 of them to be sure I did not mix them up somehow. I thought all 4 were the same length. It only happens on the left rear. i am putting my stock drives back in until I solve the issue. I think I might need a longer dogbone. How are they measured? One side is a CV joint and the other side is a slotted cup.

 

[olds97_lss]

Well, those cups were for the rear when you use the alternate revo arms that swing back further to extend the wheel base.

Personally, I've never had an issue with stock axles, even on my LRP28 revo. I just change them all out every year or so.

 

[TMaxxMike]

I think I figured it out. When I extend the arms all the way up is when the travel is at its maximum length. I think this is when the axle pops out. My shocks are totally compressed and the springs may be weak. The shock bottoms out at the maximum travel length. I was thinking about putting a short piece of fuel line on the shock rod to shorten the travel where it bottoms out. Maybe just a 1/4". I will also move the shock mount in as far as I can to minimize travel.
It is not off by very much at all. I cannot make it pop out on the bench. I must have some flex going on with all the torque.
I ended up putting the stock plastic axles back on for now.

 

[olds97_lss]

Fuel line will just split and fall out on you. It doesn't have the tensile strength to deal with shocks crushing it. You could try using another of the bumpers traxxas has in the revo shocks. Then again, the are pretty pliable and probably won't help you anyway.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHGA2
The blue things in the center near the top of the photo.

 

[TMaxxMike]

Fuel line will just split and fall out on you. It doesn't have the tensile strength to deal with shocks crushing it. You could try using another of the bumpers traxxas has in the revo shocks. Then again, the are pretty pliable and probably won't help you anyway.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHGA2
The blue things in the center near the top of the photo.

You are right. I am looking for some springs that might do the job. I might have to modify them so it evens the stress out without destroying the shock. I compared some big bore shocks and found them to be the same length and compression distance as the stock shocks
I put a spring on my brake rod and it works way better than a piece of flimsy fuel line.
I need more springs.....