10 Tuning Tips for You

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Nitro Nerd

Gone - bye bye.
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  1. Racing
I'm often asked about tuning and thought I'd throw out some tips that I've learned. I am certainly no guru, and you can disagree with all 10 of them....but this is what I've learned. I hope this helps anyone interested. ;-)

1. Let the engine wake up before tuning anything. Not 'warm-up', but 'wake-up'. You should know when your engine is awake. If you DON'T know, then I say a minimum of five minutes. I have some that get to operating temps in 2 minutes and some after a tank. The worst thing you can do (and I'm talking from experience here), is start your engine...run it for a few seconds, then think it is too rich and start learning it out.

2. Know your stock settings. This is important because it is your baseline. That being...you KNOW the engine should at least start and run at these settings. I will revert to stock in a heart beat if ever having problems. Why? Because that is the baseline. Check your manual, call the manufacturer, ask on the Internet--and if all else fails--go flush and flush. I've only had three engines that stock settings that are not flush/flush. 90% of the engines are crazy rich at flush...but again that is your baseline.

3. Tune for the environment in which you plan to run. Have you ever tuned your engine on pavement...only to run it on grass and noticed temps spiked? This is why if you go to a race track you'll notice everyone spends the first 30 minutes tuning their engines (instead of doing it at home). If racing, keep the type of track in mind. For example an engine can be optimized for long, flowing track or a technical one with short straights.I typically get a base tune on pavement then race tune in our running environment.

4. Tuning the needles in a specified order helps your sanity. I will tune in this order:
--HSN: this is the main mixture and will be the needle you change the most. What you want to do is simply seeing how the engine behaves from mid-throttle on. Don't even worry about the acceleration yet. Just focus on high speed. Once you get the RPMs you want your are done (kind of)
--LSN This affects your idle and acceleration (dead stop to mid-range). This is the 'tricky' needle and is very sensitive. As you lean it out your idle will rise...but that is okay (for now). You are simply looking for crisp acceleration, no big puff of smoke and a clean transition from low end to top end.
--Idle Stop: Finally lay down your idle. You want a low, consistent, reliable idle

5. Temps are important - However, I use them as baseline. Not to see if engine is hot or cold...but to see if it is BECOMING hotter or colder as I tune (progression) Then that is your baseline. Try five different temp guns and you'll get five different temps: guaranteed. If your engine peaks at 200 or 290 - that is operating temp.

6. Go by what you see and hear: So many people are afraid of 'running lean'. The idea of tuning is to squeeze as much power out of the engine so it screams its tits off. If you lean it out too much...you'll know it as the engine will not perform well.

7. Tuning is NOT just setting carb needles. Pipe, fuel, glow plugs, and clutch setups play a HUGE role. Don't believe me? If you have two brands of fuel try this: run one brand (get the engine tuned as best you can). Right as the tank is about to run out, put the second brand in the tank...watch the immense difference between fuels. When selecting a pipe, I've found that the pipe should augment the engine's strength instead of cover up for some weakness. I all-to-often hear people say they are getting a high-speed pipe for a low-end engine so that the pipe will "bring the engine to life". It won't happen and you'll just be fighting the tune.

8. One major key to race-tuning is setting the idle gap and LSN correctly. After a WOT, the engine should immediately lay down to idle. The next time you WOT listen to the engine...if the ballistic RPMs carry on, your HSN is most likely too lean. A good race tune is smooth and crisp from neutral to mid. Through the mid-range there should be no gurgling but instead stealthy transition into "HELL YEAH" RPMs! ;-)

9. Listen to your idle. (Okay this is a run on from #8 but it is important for a good race tune). Do a high speed run and let off the throttle. If idles for 2-5 secs then drops rpm...LSN too rich. If idles for 2-5 secs then raises rpm...LSN too lean.

10. Don't be afraid to optimize your engines. Sometimes an engine has to be lean to be mean. I'd personally prefer to have an engine that sells out and provides that "Deeeeeyaaaaamn" factor for 5 gallons than one that is "slightly rich" for 8 gallons. That's just me.
 
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Very well written piece and thank you for your time that you put into it. The one question I have that some others may have is how would go about tuning an engine with a mid range needle like the AE 8.0 or the HPI 5.9? Hpi suggests not tuning it and AE suggests a baseline setting of about 4.5 turns out if I'm not mistaken. I've messed with both engines due to being ocd but just would like some feedback. Thanks in advance, Steve.
 
i agree you did great man should be stuck perfect for new commers or hell even a refresh corse for veterans
 

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