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1.5 Nitro Rustler...

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I wouldn't buy it. The fuel might be bad and if you can't hear it run that's also not a good thing. The .15 can be a real bear to get it to run right.
 
100 bucks id buy it and i thought the 1.5 was traxxas's trainer to get you used to tuning me personally id buy it then get a bigger motor for it :first_place:
 
Foolproof said:
You can get a new one for $74 more. If it was $50 sure. I would pay the $$ and not have a worn out motor among other things. The only thing extra is the "nice" glow igniter. Here is the link http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNJH9A4&P=FR
Click to expand...

No you can't get one new for $74 more,that's an electric which is much cheaper than a nitro.

As mentioned the .15 can be a headache,but you get several items you'll need for a nitro vehicle that don't come with a new one. It doesn't look like a bad deal if you need to start off cheap. I'd recommend a tear down and complete cleanup and sealing of the engine before you even try to run it.
 
If your buying one to build, it isn't a terrible deal. Trade up to the 3.3, a few cheap, well placed upgrades, and for about the price of a new one, you have a solid rig that has your stamp on it.:) If your buying it to drive, I'd pass.
 
and how much is a new nitro? hes not asking about and electric and with the traxxas trade in he can can get a new .12 pro for 70 bucks and if I'm not mistaken can upgrade for for alittle more
 
Foolproof said:
You can get a new one for $74 more. If it was $50 sure. I would pay the $$ and not have a worn out motor among other things. The only thing extra is the "nice" glow igniter. Here is the link http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNJH9A4&P=FR
Click to expand...

Sorry didnt mean to link that one. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXZDB0**&P=ML. And the new motor trade program is $85 for a 2.5 and $110 for the 3.3. And that controller looks like it isnt the newer 2.4.

Metalhead Matt said:
If your buying one to build, it isn't a terrible deal. Trade up to the 3.3, a few cheap, well placed upgrades, and for about the price of a new one, you have a solid rig that has your stamp on it.:) If your buying it to drive, I'd pass.
Click to expand...

And yeah I agree with that. With out it running I wouldnt mess with it unless you expect the worst and want to replace some things.
 
well i bought it for 80...the car runs but carb needs cleaned....anyone want to give me a quick howto on the carb removal? i just dont want to tear into it and have no clue what I'm doing here...(I'm mechanically inclined) but just would like a quick briefing
 
There's a cross bolt on the back of the carb neck. Loosen it up(may have to tap on the end of the bolt after loosening) then gently twist the carb side to side while pulling upward. Usually fairly easy to come loose on the .15s
 
You didn't do bad at all for $80. Do what Racer said to get the carb off. Take the needles out(run them in gently first, counting the turns. That way you know where to reset them) and soak in fresh fuel over night. Blow the carb off with compressed air if you have access. Coat the carb throat's o-ring(part that goes into the case) with sensor-safe, high-temp copper rtv. Press down firmly with your thumb, and tighten the bolt. Make sure the carb is in the right position. It would really be best to seal the back plate and header while your at it. Yanking the engine now and sealing it will save you from tuning headaches in the future.
 
sorry for not responding..i cleaned the carb...had a lot of exhaust problems...(leaks) those are fixed now..(I hope)..anyways it had some bugs to tweak out, but with some valuable resources and some mechanical skills i believe they are fixed..I'm really hoping to get this baby running tip top tomorrow...I appricaite all the input
 
I have it running but come to find out the tank seal is bad...I'm going to collinsville tomorrow to get a rebuild kit for $4... have you been to the maryville track yet, bugman?
 

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