Tunedfrog
Kermit the frog is a sissy.
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It's absolutely beautiful.
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Which wires do we switch?Take two of the motor wires and swap them. That will reverse your motor. That is as long as it's not sensored.
For the gearing, swap to a bigger pinion and/or smaller spur gear. Keep an eye on motor and ESC temps any time you play with your gearing. You want to keep your electronics below 160°F or so. So grab you a cheap infrared temp gun if you don't have one.
And welcome to RCT!
I don't believe that has a sensored ESC/motor in it. Can you post a pic of the visible end of the motor? You said it is RTR though right? You bought it new? If it doesn't have a sensor wire, you can swap any two wires. Here is where the sensor wire would be if yours has this port. 99.9% sure yours doesn't.Which wires do we switch?
Got it! ThanksYeah, just swap any of those motor wires. Should do the trick. Just give it a couple throttle blips to test it. Blue and orange looks easiest to swap.
Finally gave my daughter her birthday presents today!! She was absolutely thrilled with her new rc cars.The motor is stock I believe. The only vitavon on it currently is the axle housing and attached.
Now that my daughter has gone to her dad’s house. Here is one of her upcoming birthday presents we got her. So what’s y’all’s opinion or thoughts on this custom rig???
Oh and she’s also getting a scx24 white jeep Renegade.
The shocks are typically mounted hereCustom built rig we got in a bundle purchase. It was a project a guy bought from someone else but never finished.
View attachment 186114
We could give that a try. What is your opinion on the motor esc combo we bought for it? There isn’t very much room inside the chassis to fit both individually but my boyfriend believes he saw somewhere that this motor/esc might not be able to work with it having two servos because it doesn’t have enough power?The shocks are typically mounted here
View attachment 186117
Ok, I remember you are new, so I'll try to explain how this all works. If any of this confuses you, let me know.We could give that a try. What is your opinion on the motor esc combo we bought for it? There isn’t very much room inside the chassis to fit both individually but my boyfriend believes he saw somewhere that this motor/esc might not be able to work with it having two servos because it doesn’t have enough power?
Well definitely look into that. Would there be a better motor with an Esc inside of it to use than this one? We liked it because it the space inside the chassis made it a bit of a challenge to get everything to fit inside of it.Ok, I remember you are new, so I'll try to explain how this all works. If any of this confuses you, let me know.
An ESC has a built in battery eliminator circuit (BEC). This is basically a voltage regulator to deliver the correct voltage to your receiver (Rx) and servos. Say you had a 3s battery and no BEC. That would destroy the Rx and servos with too much voltage. So a BEC is there to fix that.
Servos also require a few amps when under load, so your BEC needs to supply enough amps. So with two servos, yeah, your BEC may struggle.
View attachment 186118
To alleviate that, you can install an external BEC. A Castle 10a BEC should do nicely.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/castle-creations-10-amp-adjustable-bec-cse010-0004-00/p18210
That BEC is preset to output 5.1V, but can go up to 9v. If you have servos that can handle 7.4v or 8.4v, you would notice an improvement in servo speed and torque by simply setting the BEC to whatever your servos can handle. To change that you need the Castle Link.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/castle...usb-programmer-adapter-cse011-0119-00/p640839
You can of course just run your servos at the preset 5.1v, but I would personally want the BEC putting out as much power as my servos could take. What servos do you have in the truck? There should be a brand/model number on them.
To wire up the BEC, you will need to remove the positive wire from the ESC to the Rx. Here is the wiring diagram.
View attachment 186119
And I know you don't have an external ESC like that diagrsm, but you still have s cable going to the Rx. That will be the cable you need to modify. You also need to solder the positive and negative wores for the BEC into your battery harness.
And just a heads up... You don't have to cut that wire from the ESC to the Rx. You can gently press down on this tab and pull the wire out of the connector. That way you can slways reinstall that pin into the connector later if needed. Just make sure to tape it up good so it doesn't short out on anything.
View attachment 186120
Not that I know of. Chances are, any other combo motor/ESC will likely need an external BEC as well.Well definitely look into that. Would there be a better motor with an Esc inside of it to use than this one? We liked it because it the space inside the chassis made it a bit of a challenge to get everything to fit inside of it.
yea thats what I'm seeing when i looked it up. pretty neat find but i have a feeling if i come across any parts for it online we should probably snatch them up before they are gone since they stopped making that model. it looks mostly original, aside from the chassis. not sure if they had any faulty parts, which I'm sure there were since they were a new concept.That was the first mass produced purpose built RC crawler... in 2007!