Yet another spur gear, gone!!!!!!!!

[JBradshaw00]

I'm getting tired of this, its only the second one but damn, everytime i run it something breaks. Last time I had my LHS set up the spur gear and it lasted a while, this time i didnt move nothing just changed it. and after about 1 minute of running it started eating the teeth. Do you think it could have something to do with my lower chassis brace being broke? Sometimes I just want to say screw it and sale this thing, but I dont want to get rid of it cause when its not broke I love it.

 

[JBradshaw00]

My question is, Will my broke lower chassis brace cause something to move or anything and strip the spurr gear?

 

[Mr T-Maxx]

Yes! What is a chassis brace? It is a support, to keep the chassis from flexing. When the chassis flexes...things move...when things move.....spurs get chewed.

In Short; If you have broken chassis braces, you're gonna eat spurs. Might be time to upgrade those braces to aluminum.


Mr T

 

[Plaidfish]

hey Mr. T I already plugged your set to him in another thread....LOL....
Yes it will twist the chassis and allow your gear mesh to spread apart....that's when you start hearing that clicking and if you have metal spur gears the sparks fly....check your other thread and follow the link to Mr. Ts sale...good deal if ya ask me.....

 

[Mr T-Maxx]

hey Mr. T I already plugged your set to him in another thread....LOL....
Yes it will twist the chassis and allow your gear mesh to spread apart....that's when you start hearing that clicking and if you have metal spur gears the sparks fly....check your other thread and follow the link to Mr. Ts sale...good deal if ya ask me.....

Thanks Man...I'll send you your normal commission

Mr T

 

[JBradshaw00]

Hey, I already got some braces on the way..

Ok now for question #2: If the mesh was set up right before with a72 tooth and I dont move the motor and put another 72 on it, it should be good still right?

 

[Mr T-Maxx]

You would sure think so...but I'm gonna say...not necessarily.

My reason being:

Traxxas', probably has multiple manufacturing locations in Maylasia. Each facility probably has a least two sets of tooling to produce the spurs. A minute difference in manufacturing conditions and raw material used will result in variances (within spec.) between production runs.

Long story short....If you had two identical spurs....the mesh should be good....the chances that your spurs are twins...slim.

Just my

Mr T

 

[Candyman]

Should be, but it's always safer to double check the mesh whenever you change one of the components in that line. And it's one of the skills you should really learn early on since you'll be checking/setting your gear mesh rather often. The easiest way to do it is to get a sheet of regular printer paper. Tear off a strip that's narrow enough to slip in between your spur gear and clutch bell. With the engine mount screws loose enough to move the engine, slip the paper between the 2 gears. Push the engine against the spur so it pushes the paper into the gears. Tighten your engine mount screws and then turn the clutch bell so the paper comes out and you should have perfect mesh.

 

[JBradshaw00]

sounds good, thanks guys.

 

[Plaidfish]

another suggestion is to get the RRP slipper kit and a racers edge CB......much more durable and the slipper has less rotating mass......

 

[JBradshaw00]

Show me where to buy it... lol


and also, how does it set up?

 

[SmileyRacing]

Just curious...

How are you able to change the spur gear without removing the engine?
I have to take the engine and fuel tank off.

 

[rbmaxxbasher]

keep in mind that those spur gears are not perfectly round. You should be able to hold the CB and move the spur between the teeth. It sounds like your meshing is off, either too close or too far apart. Another thing spin the spur gear after you mesh it and make sure that its not too tight in one area. All it takes is one tooth to break and you'll be eating another spur.

I had the same problem with mine but I meshed my PLASTIC spur gear correctly and havent had to replace one since.

Just my two cents.

 

[JBradshaw00]

I take the tranny off.


and RB, what are you talking about I should be able to move the spur gear while holding the CB?

 

[rbmaxxbasher]

what I mean by that is that you should be able to hold the Clutch-bell (the part on the end of crankshaft on the motor) with your finger and take your other hand and move the spur gear. There should be just a small gap between the mesh. There are a couple of reasons for this. For one it doesn't stress out the bearings of the motor or the tranny. Secondly with a little gap it keeps you from stripping the spur gear when you land from a jump.

 

[JBradshaw00]

Hows this look, its the paper I checked the mesh with.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v711/JBradshaw00/000_0332.jpg

 

[SkyMaxx]

Every time you change a spur gear, move the engine for any reason or move the tranny...you should re-do the gear mesh.

Here's what I used to do when I ran a T-Maxx...

"From another SkyMaxx post"

Setting gear mesh is very important to the longevity of both gears and the components driving and being driven by the gears.

Here's how to do the mesh check.
1. Loosen the screws that hold the motor mounts to the chassis plate (don't take them all the way out).

2. Make sure you have both spur gear and clutch gear on properly (since you've mounted the spur and the clutch is attached to the motor, you probably have little to worry about here).

3. Take the plastic bag that the spur gear came in (a ziploc bag will work just as well) and place one thickness of the plastic between the two gears.

4. Push the motor back into place so that the two gear compress on the plastic.

5. Tighten the motor mount screws (making sure that the motor mounts are as square to the chassis as possible...you want the gears to have as even a surface to surface contact as possible).

6. Pull the bag out. The gears should rotate freely and mesh together just right.

Hope this helps...

This process worked just fine...