XTM-24.7 lsnv ???

[Robie6]

the xtm-24.7 book says the lsnv setting is 7.5 to 8 turns out from bottom, question, I have to set mine at 9 turns out to get it to start & idle 1/2 way decent but it blubbers alot till it cleans itself out, if i turn the lsnv in it dies & tries to start but only uses what priming I've done then dies. If I turn the lsnv in till it bottoms out the o-ring gets chewed up from going into the threads of the carb barrel, I've had to replace it once. It feels like the lsnv gets sort of tight when the o-ring hits the threads but I still have about 3 turns till bottom, hsnv is at 2-3/4 turns out, temp is around 250-F & I've changed glow plugs a couple times now its a Mcoy #8, no bubbles in the fuel lines, any help??? also when i bought my 24.7 the cushion spring that goes in the little hole on the hex-shaft on the pull start was in a little bag with the engine, not in the pull start where the drawing shows it to be, any ideas on it?? thanks for any advice, Robie6:constipat

 

[El Pirata]

Did you try to adjust the idle? I read somewhere when I was first getting back into RC again about it not being a contest to try to keep your RC idling as low as anyone else possibly could get it. While I generally adjust my idle a little on the high side so while it is cold and harder to stay running the side effect is that sometimes the clutch will engage the wheel when the engine is pretty hot but mine is rarely at idle.

 

[big kal]

Let's start at factory settings first.

Close the HSN clockwise until it's just snug. Don't force it until it no longer screws in. Then go ahead and turn it counter-clockwise 4 full turns.

Close the LSN clockwise until it's jsut snug. If it's too tight then it's too far in and that's probably why you're chewing up o-rings. The o-ring shouldn't be going into the threads of the barrel. You're overtightening it. Then turn the LSN counter-clockwise 7 full turns.

Take off the whole air filter assembly so you can see down the carb throat. Adjust it so that it's about 1mm-1.5mm with the throttle closed.

Start from there and if it's idling fine go ahead and proceed to tune for performance. Assuming there are no air leaks anywhere. Let us know what the results are.

 

[Robie6]

:breakdown the idle screw in the 24.7 carb is totaly useless, out of the box it was bottomed out & "tight", if i open it 1/8th of a turn the barrel closes all the way, so i used the idle screw off my torq .21, it is longer, same threads & a spring, i used the 24.7 idle screw o-ring in front of the spring & seems to be fine, although i havn't run it yet, i have alot more idle adj. can close the barrel all the way or adj. it out as much as i want, it fit the grove in the barrel fine & the barrel moves in & out good, if i turn the hsnv out 4 turns it'll stumble & puke fuel in the exh., i have the engine broken in (15 tanks) & was running really great then i thought 9 turns out on the lsnv was to rich so closed it 1/4 turn, hasn't run since, even with the settings i had when it was running good, thats when i took the lsnv out & noticed the o-ring chewed up, like i said after the lsnv o-ring gets to the threads in the barrel i can still turn the needle in about 3 to 4 turns till it bottoms, i tried it with & without the o-ring (its apart on the table) it just seems to be to rich on the bottom end, i dont use 100 pounds of force turning the needles in, just till i can feel them lightly bottm