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SpeedyBooty

RCTalk Champion
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RC Driving Style
  1. Racing
  2. Crawling
  3. Scale Builder
I don’t know if you guys have seen the videos on YouTube where people put washers where their body posts are and attach the wires to them to it makes contact with the body that also has washers on it, has anyone here tried it before? I’m just confused on how the wire is attached, can it be soldered on?
 
I don’t know if you guys have seen the videos on YouTube where people put washers where their body posts are and attach the wires to them to it makes contact with the body that also has washers on it, has anyone here tried it before? I’m just confused on how the wire is attached, can it be soldered on?

Now you've got me curious. 🤔
 
I don’t know if you guys have seen the videos on YouTube where people put washers where their body posts are and attach the wires to them to it makes contact with the body that also has washers on it, has anyone here tried it before? I’m just confused on how the wire is attached, can it be soldered on?
Yeah, you can solder to the washers. Never heard of anyone doing that, but it's a pretty cool trick. I just wonder how well the connection stays good while running the car, and the body is bouncing around.
 
Yeah, you can solder to the washers. Never heard of anyone doing that, but it's a pretty cool trick. I just wonder how well the connection stays good while running the car, and the body is bouncing around.
I saw an old farm truck build, similar to this one.

https://www.rctalk.com/forum/media/the-ugly-truckling.45/

The builder wanted a farm truck with a headlight fading in and out. They put one leg of the led in the shock spring. On the bottom was a soldered piece of metal. As the suspension goes up and down it would light up and go out.
 
IMG_7136.jpeg


You would use something like this in case you don’t want to solder.

Copper washers would do the job if you do want to solder. Or, strip a longer section and solder the wire itself into a loop.

Foam or a spring underneath the bottom washer would help retain the connection. Another solution is to use the front posts in parallel for the positive lead and the rear posts for the negative lead: even if one post loses connection the other is likely to maintain it.
 
Dang y’all, why didn’t I think of that? That’s a great idea! I’m doing that for sure on an upcoming build. Heck, I can think of a couple old builds I could update with that trick. I hate having to connect/disconnect those tiny little connectors when fitting a body or taking it off.
 
Word of advice: the hole size and wire gauge on those connectors are separate measurements. Get 6 mm holes with the crimpable part as small as possible.
 
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