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will the new 3.3 tranny fit in the old t-maxx??

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Crewchief1

RC Newbie
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Bellevue NE
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
i just put a .18r in my maxx and i've gone through 2 clutch bells and 2 spur gears. which has always had a wierd wobble and i've lost 2nd gear even though i replaced the clutch now I'm to the point i need to just find a proper solution to my problem because i'd like my 2nd back and I'm tired of changin bells and spurs. does anyone have any ideas? and would the 3.3 tranny fit in my old school t-maxx?????
 
why not go for some rrp trans gears instead of a new plastic gear tranny? RRP for the win
 
i have the same Q? traxxas people said 3.3 would fit but tou might have to change drive shafts.i also heard you have to change spur size?i think you just have to make it work.i wish someone who has actually done this would post so we would both know for sure.:\
 
I see plenty of people using 2.5 transmissions with pretty hardcore engines. The best way to go seems to be a steel geared transmission, it doesn't really matter if its a 3.3 trans or a 2.5 trans. I have an os21tm and I didnt waste my time on the stock 3.3 trans, I went for a rrp full forward only kit, not just the forward only but everything all in one kit. I actually have just about all the peices as extras too, without the foc, just in case I want to go back to having reverse. I would only need one more gear.
 
well its an old .15 tranny I'm just tryin to get 2nd back and stop shreddin the spur and bell but i was curious bout the new tranny if it was any better. and i still can't figure out whats wrong with second i mean i replaced the clutch what else could be causin the problem? and where could i find full set of steel gears for the tranny for a reasonable price????

is a full forward set up faster?
 
go rrp! id go ith rrp thats what i have in mine. the tranny gears are still plastic i havnt goten the time to mess with the tranny gears on my 3.3 yet. and if ur striping because of stress just losen the slipper clutch. if u have done that then half way unscrew the motor move it till its a snug fit with the bell and spur. take a peice of copy paper put it in betwen the gears.it should go right through only leaving tooth marks on the paper. if it rips its to tight. if it slides through or theres no tooth marks or only half of marks are showing or somthing like that re adjust. i dont really think metal gears are all that great. i just got rrp gears because i likes the gear ratio.

well its an old .15 tranny I'm just tryin to get 2nd back and stop shreddin the spur and bell but i was curious bout the new tranny if it was any better. and i still can't figure out whats wrong with second i mean i replaced the clutch what else could be causin the problem? and where could i find full set of steel gears for the tranny for a reasonable price????

is a full forward set up faster?
posibly i dont really think it will make a big difference. so unless your racing for metals of somithing like that i dont really think you need to.
 
yes but you need new shafts and spur. Honestly I would buy the newer longer chassis and just get MIP center CVD's if your going to do it. Otherwise your stock shafts will be the weak point.
 
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The new 3.3 tranny will work

I put one in my big block t-maxx. Had to upgrade to the new brake setup. The only problem I had was the front steel cvd was a little long so i modified the yoke but then had no brake posts. I am running plastic one right now as I haven't got a new yoke with the brake posts. This truck is built on an XTM .21 conversion kit Running an axial .28. Tranny is out of a new 4908 and has all stock gears. I am also running a plastic spur gear which last over a 1/2 gallon if no Big bash sessions. $5 more a gallon I can handle considering the cost of fuel these days. I will probably go full metal gears eventually but for now this works well. I believe in the lighter is better theory for jumping not to mention the whole rotating mass advantage. Good luck!!
 
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