Wheel and tire question

[nad]

Okay, I just got a new T-Maxx 3.3 4908 last week, and I've already learned how to work on these things pretty good over the past week.

Yesterday, the pavement was kinda wet, and I was out having fun, and noticed the tires ballooning up when mashing on it, then I noticed that the rear right wheel was about to fall off.

The plastic hub nut acutally melted inside the wheel and rounded out the hex inside the wheel. Well I was looking into getting some new wheels and tires anyway, but I've never foamed or glued wheels and tires as I am totally new to this hobby.

So basically I want to know if there's any way to fix this, or am I forced to buy new wheels? Also, is there any particular reason why that hub got so hot and melted like it did? I know the pavement and grass was wet and the tires were spinning quite a bit.

And since I'll probably need new wheels, I'll get new tires as well. What do you all recommend me do for wheels and tires being a newbie at this stuff? I mostly just backyard bash, concrete, grass, mud, dirt, gravel. I was looking at the Zombie Maxx, but not sure.

Thanks guys.

 

[guys2nv]

the only real fix is to ca glue(pretty much super glue) the hex inside the wheel-make sure its centered right though.once dry-it will not come out at all. you have to sacrifice a wheel hex for this but its the cheapest way to fix it-plus u can still use the wheels.wheel hexes r like 5 bucks for 4 new ones on ebay.make sure the pin doesn't fall out when reattching the wheel.also avoid using metel or aluminum hexes in plastic wheels b/c the result will be the same(stripped wheels). did it in my old bb converted maxx. the reason it got so hot was prob. b/c the wheel was loose to begin with. alil dab of threadlock will keep um tight(use red not blue)so u can still take um off. as for tire selection-its pretty much what you like-zombie max looks like a good all around tire for bashing. gluing wheels and tires can be tricky for newbies-just keep the stuff off your fingers at all cost(nail polish remover will take it off your fingers)-i install the tires w/ foams just like u would run um-peel back a lil section at a time and put some ca glue in the part u pull pack-make sure it seats right when u release the tire-do one side at a time(i.e all outsides of wheels). when u get one side done-put it face up and strap a pretty hefty rubberband around the edge of the tire(will keep it tight to wheel). let all 4 dry-then i like to run a bead of ca around the tire and wheel to fill tiny gaps-let those dry again and then repeat for the inside part of the wheels-(dont 4 get the rubberbands). hope this helps. good luck

 

[abadk9420]

First off NEVER USE RED LOCTITE ON RC PARTS you might not ever get them back apart, Use Blue Loctite it has good holding strength, it is what I use and I believe most of the rest of us here on this forum use, I also would not recommend super glueing your wheel hexes to your wheels unless you want to try to line up the little axle pin each time you put your wheels back on after removing them, I would also recommend using aluminum hexes because they are going to give you a better fit inside of the wheel hex and are not going to be prone to getting rounded like a plastic hex can, a small drop of blue Loctite inside of your wheel nuts will help prevent them from comming loose. As for glueing your tires guys2nv has great advise, I am not saying his other advise is bad I just would not do it to my E Maxx or T Maxx, I also checked the Loctite web site and they recommend RED Loctite for more permenate applications, and stated that heat and power tools are needed to remove things that are red loctited.

 

[guys2nv]

yeah i wasn't sure which threadlock has the medium holding strength-i thought it was red but abadk is right it is blue-just looked in my box and thought i had red but i actually have purple(low strength)-which works pretty decent-but blue is much better. the wheel hex's is just my rec. and from my experience w/ aluminum hexes in plastic wheels, if that wheel even comes remotely loose-it will get hot and melt and round out the plastic wheel, as for the wheel u already rounded out-if you wanna reuse the wheel then thats the only way u can save it-by sacrificing a plastic hex glued inside it. if not then u can just by 1 or 2 of the same wheels-but then you gotta use heat(heat gun or blow dryer) to get the tire off the old rim-then just glue tire to a new rim and use aluminum hexes w/ threadlock to keep it tight.aluminum hexes r like 20$-plastic is 5$. never had any real problems w/ the plastic ones. good luck

even though my thing says newbie-I'm def. not a newbie to rc. i got out of rc when i got my drivers liscence when i turned 16-lets face it-rc cars are no match for a 16yr old kid with a brand new driving liscence,a car and a tank full of cheap gas-when it was cheap. man i remember it was like 1.25 for 87 octane back in late 97-early 98. got back into rc cars like 4-5 yrs ago and have had nothing but t-maxxes and a revo since then-minus my re-released lunchbox kit-painted just like the box-its a shelfer though-i dont run it cause it's just to cool-lol. had a super clod to but sold it. keep on bashing all. peace

 

[jerry7007]

simple the tires just need to be glued back on the rim. and the hub and wheel melting has hapend to meh be4.the wheel comes loose u tighten it,but u don know theres a hub that fits on the wheel so u tighten it over the hub and the hub spins on the wheel and melts them both. buy a new hub and wheel. and remember when ur wheels com lose rotate em so they lock on the hub. also use loctite on the left side.