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whats needed for a savage to do wheelies?

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FRIDGE

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i have a completly stock savage .21 but i want to do wheelies what do i need to throw on there for it to pop up when i accelarate??
 
Low Gearing, An engine that is really tuned, probably not the 21bb and loose suspension settings in the rear end of the truck.
 
actually stiff suspension in the rear of the truck will help it wheelie easier
 
xtm 24.7 standard, hot bodies pipe, 15/49 gearing...pro-line maxx mulchers...more wheelies than i want on any surface.
 
I'll second the change to the gearing, sweetly tuned engine (any engine should handle it), and a softer rear suspension.
 
imthinkning of getting truckzilla should that be able to give me the wheelieing power i need?
 
WHEELIES

How about just taping a roll of quarters inside the back bumper:clap: j/k The wheelies are fun but they get frustrating pretty quick. My truck seems to wheelie easier going soft with the springs in the rear, it gets more weight transfer. To get a .21 to wheelie I would scrub the clutch bell w/a 3M pad or fine sand paper....while your at it scrub the contact side of the shoes and trim a 1/16 off the end toe of each shoe. Next, cinch that slipper all the way down. Make sure your tires are straight..... no toe in or out front or rear. With the carb...get that low speed crisp and you might even want to adjust the tranny and extend 1st gear out a tad. If this doesn't work break out the dremel and do a little porting....there is more power to be had out of that .21 and almost anyone can do it..heck all you really need is a basic drill and a few burrs .
 
my stock savage 25 will hold a wheel stand across a parking lot it is all in the tuning.
 
"Big Dog"

He doesn't have a .25 BigDog, he probably doesn't have a 3 shoe clutch either. These subtle yet noticable differences make wheelies a little tougher with the .21 truck.
 
Originally posted by waybad1
I still say stiffer rear suspension
Click to expand...

That is fine, but you only need to post your opinion one time in any given thread. Unless you have something to back it with, pipe down.

As for the Truckzilla question, yes and no. It can give you wheelies given the same considerations. The problem with it giving instantaneous wheelies because it has a bigger engine is that it also has heavier tires and a longer chassis. This change in moment arm and additional weight means that the engine has to work harder to get the front end up.

This takes us back to tuning, gearing, and suspension.
 
I agree with changing the gearing for better low end.

However, I also tend to agree with the stiffer rear suspension. Here is why, with a soft rear suspension, the energy created must squat the rear end until it reaches the point that it would begin to raise the rear wheels off the ground. This may not happen until the shocks actually bottom out. If you had a stiff rear suspension, a lot less energy is wasted squatting the rear. The shocks would not need to bottom out and would reach the point to raise the front wheels sooner and easier.

This is just my theory on the subject.

I actually have an example.

I have 2 mountain bikes. I can pull wheelies on the one without the rear shock easily. The other one has a rear shock and while I can still pull wheelies, the rear shock compresses before I can do so. It takes more energy for me to wheelie on the bike with the rear shock since I must first compress the shock.
 
Nice example. The only problem is for these engines, the work load isn't subject to fatique as the human body is. They put out the same amount of power (or at least they should) in both cases. Now, with the rear of the truck squatting (under a soft suspension) the center of gravity for the truck shifts towards the rear of the truck. This allows the truck to actually drive up under the front wheels and with a change in the CG the front comes up more easily. Why? The weight closer to the pivot point allows for the truck to pull it up (shorter moment arm multiplied by the weight is less than the longer moment arm multiplied by the weight....there's more to the equation but the meat of it is there.)

My example...
Brand new T-Maxx with brand new Fantom engine in it. Everything is tuned just fine. With the stock shocks and springs (weakest freaking things I have ever seen), the truck squats and the front comes up on command. I hate wheelies, so I drop in some upgraded shocks, heavier silicone and stiffer springs...no more wheelies. All power stays on the ground.
 
ok hey guys I'm a total newbie with this stuff and i need some help I am not following on all this stuff you guys are talking about. Ok I just installed a 3 shoe clutch and i have a 49 tooth spur or whatever its called then the rest is stock what can i do to make it pop a small wheelie about a inch or two high nothing to big ok thanks guys. I have 2 spacers on my shocks so my ride stands a little higher the its supposed to.
 
You may try taking out the spacers on the rear shocks, only. Leave the ones in the front. You can also tighten down on the slipper clutch nut (the thing that holds the spur gear in place is the slipper clutch). That should give you just the goose you are looking for. Someone mentioned lightly sanding the clutch shoes and inside of the clutch bell. This will help with a slightly quicker engagement and give you a little more zing off the line, and sometimes that is all that you need to pop the front wheels up an inch or two.

Other than that, make certain your engine is tuned for the weather conditions and performance you desire.
 
Originally posted by SkyMaxx
Nice example. The only problem is for these engines, the work load isn't subject to fatique as the human body is. They put out the same amount of power (or at least they should) in both cases. Now, with the rear of the truck squatting (under a soft suspension) the center of gravity for the truck shifts towards the rear of the truck. This allows the truck to actually drive up under the front wheels and with a change in the CG the front comes up more easily. Why? The weight closer to the pivot point allows for the truck to pull it up (shorter moment arm multiplied by the weight is less than the longer moment arm multiplied by the weight....there's more to the equation but the meat of it is there.)

My example...
Brand new T-Maxx with brand new Fantom engine in it. Everything is tuned just fine. With the stock shocks and springs (weakest freaking things I have ever seen), the truck squats and the front comes up on command. I hate wheelies, so I drop in some upgraded shocks, heavier silicone and stiffer springs...no more wheelies. All power stays on the ground.
Click to expand...

Fair enough Sky. I will bow to your experience on this.
 
try pulling the front dogbones out. i did it in my 25 and it pulled the front end up with out a probem. sometimes it wouldn't go anywhere it would just flip iver. It also lets you pull off some nice donuts.
 
Last edited:
Originally posted by Deano
I have a Truckzilla and it does not wheelie very easily!!!
Click to expand...

Truckzilla will not wheelie easily without some help. The longer chassis and heavier tires make the engine have to work that much harder to lift the front wheels. You will have to go with a change in gearing and nail the tuning to get that monster to lift the front wheels.
 

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